EliasJ123 said:
Cool Scott. It's not too "Bling'ish"
I'm not up on my bumpers.. Did you fab it or buy it??
How do you like the drilled rotors?? Do you notice a difference??
E
Don't do drilled rotors, aaaaaand I'll explain;
Drilled rotors have two major downfalls, strength and surface area. Most of your el cheapo $50 job drilled rotors are exactly that...
drilled. This is a problem due to strength issues. Rotors are cast, milled then heat treated. Once you heat treat something you shouldn't mess with it again. Well, drilling after the fact causes little tiny stress cracks around the holes that have been drilled the first time you heat up a rotor. It can eventually cause this:
Good "drilled" rotors are actually drilled BEFORE the heat treat, at the factory. You'll get rotors like this from Bear, wilwood, etc. But they're going to cost you.
Now, on to the cost vs. performance factor. You're actually DECREASING stopping power in trade for heat dissipation. The fact that you've got 40 holes in your rotor, amounts to quite a bit of surface space you're not going to be making pad contact with. This is often ofset by getting bigger brakes etc. You'll actually notice a slight DECREASE in stopping power with drilled rotors, given normal driving conditions. Once they get hot, is when they stop better, the holes reduce brake fade.
Now with that being said, your best bet is slotted rotors. You don't get the heat disipation, but you get the displacement of water, and in your case possibly sand or fine mud. Which is a major player in the game of brakes. All in all, you'll be better off with cheapo rotors and GOOD pads. I replace my rotors pretty much every brake change on my cars I drive hard. I run good pads, and cheap rotors. Rotors are rotors until you get into big money brakes. The good pads however will eat into a good rotor or a bad rotor just the same.
Brake bed in is also JUST as important to braking as the choice of pads and rotors, even more so I'd say.
Just food for thought
