Local experience with Clayton vs T&T

Lookin at the Clayton Strongarm kit and T&T Y-link (both upgrades got the front springs in), already . I like the look of the T&T kit. Only one mounting point on the "frame" so fewer bushings to worry about and good clearance. And I figure I can get that kit plus leafs and a couple other things I need for the same price as a full kit through DPG. I still plan on doing the leafs and maybe a couple other things through DPG.

Any one here have experience with them? How does each setup handle sidehills, loose hillclimbs, etc? How's the flex in places like Truckhaven? TIA

I've seen the flex on the TnT kits and think they rock. It would be my preferred setup so I dont run any LA kit right now. 2 things that tnt has over the clayton is the belly skid and the higher clearance on the long arms

yeah, the was one thing I really liked was having the integral belly skid. I've been wanting one for piece of mind reasons for a while and was thinking of getting one, but most other suspensions out there I'd have to buy that separate, adding another $200 to the cost.

Well, just talked to Dirk at DPG and now I'm contemplating going with a short arm kit from them and selling my current front springs and lift shackles. I've been thinking about going to stock length shackles anyways but I don't know.

I have the T&T Y links on my XJ. I really like them, my only complaints are #1 the drive line is exposed because of the high clearance arms, #2 the geometry + soft flexy suspension makes the front end dive.
Customer service at This and That kicks butt. They did a little custom work for me and instead of trying to relay what I wanted, they had me work it out w/ their fab guy. Just dont be in a hurry if you order anything from them, speed is not their specialty.
Their flex capabilities are insane, especially for a radius arm design.
Pics:

Im on 35s to give you an idea of how far that front tires dropped.

BakersfieldXJ said:

I have the T&T Y links on my XJ. I really like them, my only complaints are #1 the drive line is exposed because of the high clearance arms, #2 the geometry + soft flexy suspension makes the front end dive.
Customer service at This and That kicks butt. They did a little custom work for me and instead of trying to relay what I wanted, they had me work it out w/ their fab guy. Just dont be in a hurry if you order anything from them, speed is not their specialty.
Their flex capabilities are insane, especially for a radius arm design.
Pics:

Im on 35s to give you an idea of how far that front tires dropped.

Click to expand...

From what I have seen and understand. The key ingredient for flex is shock choice. I have the RE kit and my shocks stop the downward movement long before anything else binds up. Both kits (Clayton or TnT are good kits, it more up to what you are looking for. I like my RE kit because I can (and have) dropped the crossmember down and the arms are still attached to the unibody. I am not worried so much about absolute ground clearance(good thing) so its good for me (that and I paid $1000 for it. haha).

Running prices, the DPG 4" RE system is the cheapest with the T&T Y-link only $100 more. DPG's 5" Trailgunner came out to be the most expensive by about $600 after I added everything together. For all of the DPG kits I added the belly skid. For all of them I added a Rusty's front end skid/stiffener for around the steering box, JKS HD tie rods, and RE hack and tap SYE w/drive shaft. I'm thinking T&T is going to be the way for me with the DPG Trailgunner leaves out back. Anyone want to buy some 1.5" lift shackles?

Droop has to do with many things. The order Ive fought them is was: Long arms, shocks (13" travel, 34" fully extended), trac bar, drop pitman arm, drive line, trac bar again, then I had to notch the t&t belly pan even more. Now my steering is the limiting factor again, followed closely by shocks. Its an on going process to squeeze another 1/2 in outta the front end.
But regardless the long arms themselves can probably handle another 8in to 12in of droop before the geometry of the radius arm starts becoming a factor.