Received my RE Super Flex 3.5" lift, Any hints?

Just received my Rubicon Express 3.5" Super Flex lift with leaf packs and was wondering what install hints and tips people might have that have installed them before. I mean, why re-invent the wheel? Thanks in advance, RWD.

Spray the crap out of it with PB blaster for awhile.

Get a good cheater bar

Get some friends to help you out

After I installed my 3.5" superflex kit I came up with these hints:
1) Spend a little extra money and buy an adjustable traction bar. The RE instructions said to drill a new hole 3/4" inboard of the existing hole on the axle. Not only is it hard to get the exact spot to drill and drill it staight, but when you are done there is only a small amount of metal between the two holes and any significant amount of stress will cause the bolt to break through and wallow out causing you to weld it and drill again.
2) When replacing the front springs, jack the jeep up high enough to set it on jack stands on their highest setiing under unibody frame rails. Put a floor jack under the front axle and jack up the axle as far as you can without lifting the jeep off the stands. Remove the tires, front shocks and the traction bar. Disconnect the front sway bar and do not remove the upper and lower control arms. Now lower the jack and front axle. The control arms will keep the axle centered and the axle will drop down far enough for the springs to fall out. No spring compressors needed.
3) I also needed 3/4" spacers for the transfer case because my u-joints were binding.
Good luck

One more thing, when installing the front springs, leave the extended bump stops loose. Slide them inside the spring and then install the spring. Jack up the front end and reinstall everything. When you are done you can reach through the spring and bolt it down. By doing it this way you don't need the extra clearance to clear the bumpstop.

Thanks so much! These are just the type of hints I was looking for. I have done too many installs of this type and have been the one to learn through the school of hard knocks and bloody knuckles!

beware of the dreaded rear shock bolts. The front is alot easier than you think because you can actually get a wrench or socket on both sides of the bolt. I started @ the rear thinking it would be easier and what a PITA. The rear shock bolts suck and be careful when getting the frame side of the leaf spring because that has a tendency of the bolt rusting to the bushing inside, listen for a crack if you hear it start drinking heavily. Other than that like stated above PB blaster and maybe a tank of mapp gas will really help good luck

Stupid question, What is PB Blaster?? And thanks for the hints!!

PB blaster is like WD-40 but it works alot better cause it really soaks in and is not really flammable. I wouldn't recommend imposters cause it works so good and spray it on everything that you are gonna take off for a couple of days to really get it good. http://www.pbblaster.com/store/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=1 It is avail at most auto parts stores

Don't mess around with the aerosol cans of PB Blaster. Get the gallon jug with the spray bottle. I bought that setup at Advance Auto for about $24 a couple of months ago.

It ain't cheap, but you aren't paying to propellant and you will have plenty of warning before you run completely out on your next project (and there will be more....)

Air tools... torch for the inevitable front leaf spring bolt freeze. The rear shock bolts, TC drop kit AND longer yoke UNLESS you are also installing a SYE at the same time. Otherwise the rear DS u-joints WILL bind.

You don't know what PB Blaster is but you're doing this install yourself??

OK.................................:callme:

Friends, you will need friends to help. PB blaster everything and I mean everything you will be working on for a few days before you start and you will be gratefull. And don't worry if you break a upper rear shock bolt, It's not as bad as it looks and easy to fix.

Hey , On that drill out your mount ??? couldnt you weld, attatch some washers of sorts to the bracket to shore up that drilled section?

Ok... I did this in March of this year on an 1988 and am real happy with the results.

I will only repeat what needs to be stressed.

• PB Blaster, I don't care aerosol or spray bottle, but everynight for 1-2 weeks prior to performing the mod spray the crap out of the shock bolts, not just the heads but aim the spray up into the upper shock bushing cavity. I used a couple of ramps to roll up on every night.
• The leaf spring bolts, spray the crap out of them also, including u-bolts.
• The most important tool you need is friends. I could not have completed the lift without them. Posted in my chapter forum for a lift party and we had a blast.

Check this thread...unfortunately the photos have disappeared, but the lift was worth it and there were some after shots included by my sister that are still posted.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77268


The most important tool is friends.

Good luck,
Tom

Will I really need an longer yoke with a 3.5" lift? I am doing the 1" TC drop as reccomended by Jeepin outfitters where I bought the kit.

When you do the drop you eliminate the binding but you get REALLY CLOSE to pulling it out of your TC if you flex too much. Nothing will ruin your day better than having your driveshaft FALL OFF while climbing a hill. You lose all your fluid in the TC. NOT FUN. $60 from Rusty's fixes the problem.

I KNOW THE ARGUMENTS... it's not that much longer... yadda yadda yadda. I liked the peace of mind. Plus the YJ yoke has MUCH better clearances for the u-joints.

When you do the drop you eliminate the binding but you get REALLY CLOSE to pulling it out of your TC if you flex too much. Nothing will ruin your day better than having your driveshaft FALL OFF while climbing a hill. You lose all your fluid in the TC. NOT FUN. $60 from Rusty's fixes the problem.

I KNOW THE ARGUMENTS... it's not that much longer... yadda yadda yadda. I liked the peace of mind. Plus the YJ yoke has MUCH better clearances for the u-joints.

ACTUALLY.. I have mine I'll sell you for $20+ shipping.

Another naive question. Is the website for Rusty's "rustys.com" or what. Also, what exactly do I need? Thanks for all the info! Bob

RWD said:

Another naive question. Is the website for Rusty's "rustys.com" or what. Also, what exactly do I need? Thanks for all the info! Bob

Click to expand...

have you ever heard of yahoo or google search?


but to ease your search.......http://www.rustysoffroad.com

Did you buy the kit from Jeepinoutfitters.com? I love that place