Blower Motor & Blinkers Go out same time HELP!!

SO I have the Blower on high and put it in reverse, blower motor dies and the blinkers quit. They are not on the same Fuse and both of the fuses for them are not blown. Here is a pic of the wiring diagram off of the ignition switch for the run position.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2414000-2414999/2414441_21_full.jpg Just in case you cant see the pic.
My Wipers, Blinkers, Back up lamps, defrost (rear), and blower will not work. The engine will start and run fine. My question is can i assume that the "14 brn" 14 gauge brown wire from the ignition switch is to blame or could just the 5.5amp circuit breaker case this problem? I would also think to assume that the problem with the wire is after it splits off to the Horn Relay and the Engine Circuits since they both work correctly? Any help would be great. Im not the best at reading these diagrams . Thanks in advance

Breaker affects only the wiper.

Pelican said:

Breaker affects only the wiper.

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Thats what i thought So it should be that brown wire?

Logic suggests that it is the brown wire but it is difficult to see offhand how going into reverse would cause a problem -- perhaps the load from the backup lights? In any event that wire goes a short distance to the fuse panel so that is the place to start. Possibly wiring behind the panel -- you haven't dumped any dot-3 on it lately by chance -- lol? I forget if you have the 4 or 6, but if you have the 2.5, except for the horn working, I would be inclined to suspect the ignition switch. Let us know how it goes.

I have the 6

IT is probably the brown wire and the ignition switch, been there done that twice on just one jeep in 12 months, :rattle:

I finally bypassed the ignition switch with a heavy duty 30 amp toggle switch for that brown wire, trashed the pisant 14 gauge wire and installed a 10 gauge, 30 amp fused wire from the back side of the fuse block to the toggle switch.

The first time it failed I repaired the melted plastic female conector and replaced the burned out brown wire female connector, and installed a new ignition switch, it was melted at the brown wire connection. 6 months later the ignition switch died again at the same location.

All I gotta do is remember to turn off the toggle switch!

Other than that I have had no more problems with it.

So you are saying that if I hunt this down and it ends up being the brown wire I should just bypass the whole ignition switch? I take it that this Brown wire runs from inside the column through the firewall and into the back of the fuse block? Could I use a 3way toggle switch that has 3 positions. one being off the middle run and a spring loaded start for the top? Ecomike could you PM me with more info on what you did or just post it up? THanks

I haven't had a problem with this on my 93 but to hopefully prevent one, the next time I 'm under the dash, I am going to install a 30 amp relay that will effectively accomplish what Ecomike did. I can't claim credit for the idea -- there was a thread perhaps a year ago where someone went through the melted terminal/brown wire bit and added the relay. It's not high tech, just cut the brown (or equivalent) wire and use the end out of the ignition switch plug to trigger the relay. Of course this assumes that there is a good connection at the plug which may not be the case right now for 1985xjlaredo.

I may still add a bypass switch to trigger the relay. I recently installed a new ignition switch and the accessory position doesn't always work. If I can't adjust that, I will add the switch. I would like to come up with an interlocking cutoff circuit, perhaps a latching relay or IC timer, because I will without question leave it on sooner or later as Ecomike suggests.

I will say that I've had at least my fair share of wiring problems during the nearly 23 year cohabitation with my 85 but thankfully a melted ignition switch was not one of them.

1985xjlaredo said:

So you are saying that if I hunt this down and it ends up being the brown wire I should just bypass the whole ignition switch? I take it that this Brown wire runs from inside the column through the firewall and into the back of the fuse block? Could I use a 3way toggle switch that has 3 positions. one being off the middle run and a spring loaded start for the top? Ecomike could you PM me with more info on what you did or just post it up? THanks

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I choose to keep the ignition switch and wiring OEM, except for the brown wire as I was in ahurry, and unsure of what all that might entail. That single brown wire carries the Blower (25 amp), the turn signals, the radio, the power windows, the reverse lights, maybe the door locks and maybe the power seats on my 87. The brown wire does not carry the ignition start or engine control and run features, so I left that on the column ignition switch, as non of it was overloading or burning out. IIRC correctly I followed the brown wire to the fuse box rear, and found the larger red wire that fed several fuses including the brown wire, but my memory is foggy on this. If I had it to do over I would run a new 8 gauge wire right from the battery, with a fuse link at the battery, run it to a new toggle switch, minimum 30 amp, or maybe even a 50 amp relay under the dash with a pilot duty toggle switch to operate the relay, then connect the output wires that the brown wire fed at the ignition switch to the output of the switch or relay.

In summary, I would only bypass the brown wire at the ignition switch and its mating wires on the output side of the ignition switch, as the ignition switch and brown wire are undersized, at least for a power accessorized vehicle like mine. I had to do a lot of plastic hacking, cutting, and plastic repair to the wiring harness ignition switch connector on mine too, as it had literaly melted in a few places, like around the overheated brown wire.

OK, looking at the diagram below I see I have it backwards, the brown wire is the outlet from the ignition switch not the feed, so I must have followed the hot wire from the ignition switch to the firewall, tapped into it at the firewall (spliced into it), behind the fuse block, or between the two sides of the fuse block (there are two sides or parts to the fuse block), ran the new wire splice to the the new toggle switch through a 30 amp in line fuse, then cut back the brown wire as far back as I could to the individual lines it fed, replaced it with some 10 gauge wire and attached them directly to the new switch. I am sure I attached the blower supply directly to the switch bypassing the old brown wire for that connection, then possibly reused the good part of the brown wire for the rest of the loads.

Oh, and replacing the blinker fluid does not help with this problem!

fuseable link
its gay
my buddys did it
i made a jumper from one of the open slots with a wire to on side of the slot where the fuse gos, the other side is where the power is.
look for your self use a test light and ground one side you will see
if you need ill send you pics
IM me

My switch melted where the brown wire exits the plug, so I added a relay to the brown wire. I also put a 30 amp inline fuse in the wire that powers the relay.

mlanicca said:

My switch melted where the brown wire exits the plug, so I added a relay to the brown wire. I also put a 30 amp inline fuse in the wire that powers the relay.

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Nice drawing. :clap:

I see now that I must have bypassed the fuse box and bypassed the blower fuse in the fuse box (it was dying too) on my +12 V blower wire and ran it direct to the new toggle switch output and direct to the previously fused blower wire.

Then I must have moved the brown wire that was attached to the output of the ignition switch to the output side of the toggle switch, thus splitting the load. Then as I said before I ran a new +12 volt hot wire to the toggle switch input side.

The more I see of this thread, the more I like I like the idea of just adding a new relay under the dash and running a new hot wire from the battery to the relay and then running the blower off of it!

I suspect Jeep might have finally done that in later models?

sweet drawing I will have to do this as I have an extra 30 amp relay in the box. I got everything working again by messing with the Key cylinder but I don't think that it will last. I have been using only my original keys with nothing else on them to not put any more weight on the cylinder, but it is shot now anyway. I was thinking of putting this where my clock goes by cutting the clock where it will fit in that area in between the cluster and the radio. The clock is shot so i don't need it. A hidden fuel shutoff switch for security Is this a good or bad Idea?

Well Ecomike said that he had to redo his after fixing it once and this way I could do a cleaner install and I would know exactly what was what in the way of wires and relays. Its only $30 for the part and I have all the wire and connectors that I need. Plus it would look cooler than Just the old Key. Now I just want to figure out if there is something I can plug the old key hold. Can I just remove the wheel lock so I dont need to turn the Key at all?

I don't know about a clean install, especially after you get a look at the mess of wires going to the old ignition switch. Nothing clean at all about redoing that entire mess. That is why I only bypassed the part that was causing my problem. I just wish I had used a 50 amp relay instead of a 30 amp toggle switch.

But if your like me, you've made up your mind already, and your gonna install that fancy looking rocket switch on the dash anyway. Just be ready for a good mess of a dozen some odd wires from the igniton switch to attach somewhere that will be looking for their own toggle switches!!!!! Other wise you will be cross wiring the fused power of many things that had seperate power legs before your mod.

OK I hate to post a pic this big but here it goes

From what I am reading in the diagram, There are only5 wires that I have to deal with:
1.The hot wire that is coming into the ignition switch. is this is where I should put a 30A relay?
2. The wire that is orange that powers the windows and locks and there circuit breaker. And splits off to the engine circuits
3. The Wire that is yellow that powers the instrument cluster and headlamps
4. The Green wire that runs to the the engine circuits and the starter thing on the passenger side fender.
5. The Brown wire that seems to be my problem wire which powers the horn, defrost, rear wiper, blinkers, blower, Backup Lamps, and Radio. Should I put another 30a relay in here to?
Now I have never taken a look to see what all wires go to the switch its self. But I only see 5 wires that I would have to contend with If I decide to do this modification. Now that I take a better look at the diagram maybe this would be a better setup for me

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_389440_-1
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_389441_-1
Then I could have all of the switches that I think that I will need in one location?
Well tell me If you think that I'm a dummy or if you think that this will work for me. Like I have said before I'm not good with these diagram things and any help/input is much appreciated! Time to go :smoker: and watch the big game!

#5 should be split up two ways with the Blower on a seperate switch and service.

Ecomike said:

#5 should be split up two ways with the Blower on a seperate switch and service.

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Before or after the fuse block? Or both?

Well this is the least of My problems now. Some shit head tried to steal my Jeep the yesterday. http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=942183