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painting while cold?

Ba-Riedo

has frame envy
Im fairly new to spray painting and need a few pointers so I dont screw anything up.

I bought a set of used T&T's last week and they were painted silver but much of the paint has been rubbed/ scratched off.

I would like to repaint them silver but am not sure if I should sand or just paint over the old stuff. Also its probably 45 degrees in my garage right now, would that make the paint stick funny? I was told that you shouldnt paint if its not warm out.

-Alex
 
How do you want the final finish?
For spray painting, I always remove all rust, grit, dirt, grime, etc and scuff the surface if it is smooth. Primer, then paint. Works well.

If I was to do what you're looking to do, I'd sand them down (with 150-180 grit or so) and shoot them with primer then paint when the temp rose a little more. If you're pressed for time, you will probably get away with 40-45 degrees, but I wouldn't paint below that.

Primer isn't required, but I always use it on bare metal surfaces before painting. Also, a good name brand paint will be much better than the $0.50 can of dept. store junk.
 
Im using rustoleum metallic paint, I painted my bellypan just now and it looks good so far, for the arms I need to tape off the joints and threads and will be doing those shortly.

-Alex
 
yeah rattle can is pretty easy to streak - make sure it is well preped with a light sand paper or scotch bright - once scuffed PRIME - it makes a world of a difference in the results on longevity of the paint...

good luck!
 
Generally speaking, painting below 60 degrees is not recommended for several reasons. Paint will have a tendency to run and sag if it can't tack up quickly, time between 2nd and 3rd coats must also be lengthened, to name a few.

Here's some tricks that I've used with success when the temps are low and I need to rattle-can something.

Prep the part that needs paint by sanding with 220 grit paper or scotchbrite, remove dust and then take the part inside where it can warm up. Overnight works well, near a heat vent or by the fireplace.

On raw parts that will fit, I've warmed them in the oven to about 150 degrees, then let them cool a little before shooting primer on them. 2 or 3 coats of Duplicolor metal etching primer (most NAPA , some Autozone carry this in Utah) then scuff and remove dust.

Warm up your paint cans by setting them in the sink in a 4"-6" bowl filled with hot water, then let hot water trickle into the bowl for 10-15 min., occasionally removing the can and shaking it to mix up the paint and distribute the heat evenly. I said warm. Getting a pressurized can HOT will make it explode.......don't want you to have to explain why your face is bleeding and you're now blind, not to mention the fresh metallic silver splatter paint job in the kitchen ..........

Run a wire hanger through the end of the part you need to paint so you can hang it from the garage door track. Haul your warmed parts and paint out into the garage and spray a nice, even coat on them. If multiple coats are needed, haul them back inside and hang them up where it's warm (not near an open flame, fumes are flammable) until the fresh paint is tacky or almost dry to touch (put newpaper under where they are hanging, in case a drip may occur.....keeps wifey happy too) then haul the part back out and spray another coat on.......repeat until you're satisfied with the coverage. Then let the part hang in the gee-rage until dry, or haul back inside to share the smell of curing paint with your family.

Good luck and happy can rattling..........BTW, don't forget to wear your respirator when painting.......10 years of commercial painting talking.
 
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I prefer to paint over 60 degrees, 70 if possible, it sure makes the chances for catastrophe much less.
XJeeper does many of the same things I do, heat the work and the paint before use. Typically drying times between coats is much longer. A few very fine coats works much better than one thick one.
Krylon gray or red primer works as well as anybodies and seems to dry a bit faster. Rustolium rusty metal primer seems to hold the best, but has the longer drying time (days, not hours).
Working light floods are usually cheap, I've mounted three 300 watt lamps on an old cement base umbrella stand. Put in a switch so I can use one, two or three lamps. The whole setup cost me less than $50 and I use it often for renovations and other stuff. I even use it for driveway repairs in the winter, it makes as good a heater as it does a lamp.
 
We painted an RX-7 one time in like 40-45 degree weather and it didnt come out too good. But then again its just suspension, its gonna get scratched up again.
 
XJEEPER said:
Generally speaking, painting below 60 degrees is not recommended for several reasons. Paint will have a tendency to run and sag if it can't tack up quickly, time between 2nd and 3rd coats must also be lengthened, to name a few.

Here's some tricks that I've used with success when the temps are low and I need to rattle-can something.

Prep the part that needs paint by sanding with 220 grit paper or scotchbrite, remove dust and then take the part inside where it can warm up. Overnight works well, near a heat vent or by the fireplace.

On raw parts that will fit, I've warmed them in the oven to about 150 degrees, then let them cool a little before shooting primer on them. 2 or 3 coats of Duplicolor metal etching primer (most NAPA , some Autozone carry this in Utah) then scuff and remove dust.

Warm up your paint cans by setting them in the sink in a 4"-6" bowl filled with hot water, then let hot water trickle into the bowl for 10-15 min., occasionally removing the can and shaking it to mix up the paint and distribute the heat evenly. I said warm. Getting a pressurized can HOT will make it explode.......don't want you to have to explain why your face is bleeding and you're now blind, not to mention the fresh metallic silver splatter paint job in the kitchen ..........

Run a wire hanger through the end of the part you need to paint so you can hang it from the garage door track. Haul your warmed parts and paint out into the garage and spray a nice, even coat on them. If multiple coats are needed, haul them back inside and hang them up where it's warm (not near an open flame, fumes are flammable) until the fresh paint is tacky or almost dry to touch (put newpaper under where they are hanging, in case a drip may occur.....keeps wifey happy too) then haul the part back out and spray another coat on.......repeat until you're satisfied with the coverage. Then let the part hang in the gee-rage until dry, or haul back inside to share the smell of curing paint with your family.

Good luck and happy can rattling..........BTW, don't forget to wear your respirator when painting.......10 years of commercial painting talking.

X2 and it will look hazey(sp?) when it dries. You could paint them outside them bring them inside to dry if you dont mind the smell.
 
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