Dana 60's

Dana 60's in a Cherokee? Is it easier to get 60's out of a Dodge or Ford and build them up myself, or just buy the already completed ones from like Dynatrack or something????

Depends on the budget.

The rear 60 will cost you $100. Add gears, shafts and a locker you are looking around $2000 at most if you do the work yourself.

Front 60 anywhere from $500 to $1500. If you do the work yourself, you are looking at around $3500 to $4000 for a completed, locked axled front 60.

oh ok, well I think that if I built it myself I would be more trusting of it and be a bit more willing to put it through the paces. Thanks for the info

i've recently acquired a rear 60 pumpkin (no axle tubes, axles, brakeparts,)

i've been thinking about welding up some axles to fit with a 5 on 4.5 pattern and welding some tubes to it and putting it under the rear of my cherokee.

any thoughts?

i can do all the work myself . i'll have to find brake parts somewhere

wingnutooa said:

i've recently acquired a rear 60 pumpkin (no axle tubes, axles, brakeparts,)

i've been thinking about welding up some axles to fit with a 5 on 4.5 pattern and welding some tubes to it and putting it under the rear of my cherokee.

any thoughts?

i can do all the work myself . i'll have to find brake parts somewhere

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Nominated:yelclap:

My guess would be to see if axle places like dynatrac will sell parts indevidually.

if i do this it will be wreckiing yard parts only . aside from goodies you cant find there like lockers and such

nominated for what? building my own axle? okay i accept the nomination. let the building commence. or if you want you can nominate someone else to donate money to the person that is going to build the axle for me.....(nominated of course...)

wingnutooa said:

nominated for what? building my own axle? okay i accept the nomination. let the building commence. or if you want you can nominate someone else to donate money to the person that is going to build the axle for me.....(nominated of course...)

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I would like to second that nomination :greensmok






haha

:laugh: :clap:

The guy at Geartech makes hubs fr the 60 and the 14b with any pattern you want on them. I am getting some C&C 5 on 5.5 hubs for the rear, along with some brake mounts made for the 79-85 cadillac calipers with the e-brake. The calipers work with the 1" rotors and need a 5.5" mount spacing. A few places make the kits, but I just got mine from him and he was easy to work with.
About the $2000 or so to make it work really depends on what you are doing with it. If you are putting only 35's (with the shave pumpkin option) I dont think you would be breaking the 1.5" axles. The 60 and the 14b are fairly stout as is and come with noslips most of the time. on the right year for you can get up to a 5.38 or a 7.17 if you grab a D70.
My 14b project has only cost me $600 so far, it came with the 4.56's I wanted, noslip, and the machine work. All the weld on stuff you can buy will not cost you much...... Unless you are building one for serious rockcrawling... really serious.
My front D60 will cost me not much more.
Again this being based on what you will be using it for, the weight of your rig and so forth.
BTW they fit very nice under my XJ though. Only took a little "massaging".

KarlVP said:

Depends on the budget.

The rear 60 will cost you $100. Add gears, shafts and a locker you are looking around $2000 at most if you do the work yourself.

Front 60 anywhere from $500 to $1500. If you do the work yourself, you are looking at around $3500 to $4000 for a completed, locked axled front 60.

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I'd say your pretty close. I'm building up a set of 60s right now and I'll have about that into them.

Seeing as I just did this in another thread, I'll paste it here :
- Rear '79 Ford D60 - Free
- Blue Torch Fab Truss/Cover/4 link mounts - $350
- Blue Torch Fab Coilover mounts - $20 (deal from someone didn't use them)
- Bore Spindles to 1.630" for 35-spline shafts- $55 + Time (My Writeup)
- *Dutchman 35-spline FF shafts - $295
- *Disc Brakes - $290 (non-ebrake)
- *35-spline Spool - $115
- *Yukon 5.38s - $170
- *Master Bearing/Install Kit - $110
Total: $1405
*=Still to purchase

For the Front D60, I don't want to add it. But here's a fast breakdown:
-'79 Ford HP D60
-T&T D60 truss
-Alloy USA 35-spline outers
-35-spline drive flanges
-stock (or $$$ permitting Alloy USA) 35-spline inners
-5.38s, detroit, all bearings, seals, etc...

It not only adds up fast but it isn't just a simple swap. If I wasn't tearing into it because of the damage I'd live with the D30/D44 setup I had for awhile longer.
There are many many many factors to take into account when swaping them in... do some searching (I did) first and there is a ton of great information. However, don't get me wrong here you don't need to be a super fabricator (I'm not) to get them under either. Just some common sence, money, and ability to learn from mistakes.

mk153smaw said:

...If you are putting only 35's (with the shave pumpkin option) I dont think you would be breaking the 1.5" axles. ...

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While I agree you won't break the shafts, 35's are just plain to small for D60s and14bolts.
Just had a discussion on this not to long ago. Link: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=937222

Hey send me an email address and I will shoot you an Excell file with all the front D60 and D70 axle information. This file has everything you can think to ask about anything you want to know. It is broken down by year, make, modle, axle, ratio, spline, lengths.......etc.
If I knew how to add it on to here I would, the file is super useful and will make your junkyard diving easier.

Pm it to me, I will find a way to post it.:wave1:

Naw, 335's will be fine...... with that said there is some major shaving that has to occur to make it work right.
I removed 2.5" from the base of the pumpkin and then replaced with a flat piece of 1/2" armor plate.

I didnt do it to do something over powered. In the future when I have all reinforcement in, I will go much bigger. All in all I am happy how it fits, shoot I have more clearance than my old D35

wingnutooa (a) g mail DOT Com)mercial!

yes...that should do quite nicely

Ok sent it out. That file needs be in the sticky thread for axles.

wingnutooa said:

nominated for what? building my own axle? okay i accept the nomination. let the building commence. or if you want you can nominate someone else to donate money to the person that is going to build the axle for me.....(nominated of course...)

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teehee


My 60/10.5 swap is gonna run about 4500 including tires axles links etc...

RCman said:

- Bore Spindles to 1.630" for 35-spline shafts- $55 + Time (My Writeup)

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Wow!
Your write-up on boring your spindles with hand tools is the first one I've seen other than my own. I also bored my 1979 Ford D60 spindles using almost the identical method. I used 2 hole saws, 2 arbors, thread cutting oil and a craftsman rechargable drill. It took me about 10 min per inch to bore each of the 8 inch spindles and I used 2 holesaws per spindle. It's in my axle swap write-up. I had read somewhere about boring with a hole saw, but I never saw a write-up anywhere, so I went to the hardware store and came up with the double holesaw technique. I used a 1 1/2" holesaw because I was worried about cutting to much off, then I took off a little more with a small cylinder hone and some sanding drums.

Sierra Drifter said:

Wow!
Your write-up on boring your spindles with hand tools is the first one I've seen other than my own. I also bored my 1979 Ford D60 spindles using almost the identical method. I used 2 hole saws, 2 arbors, thread cutting oil and a craftsman rechargable drill. It took me about 10 min per inch to bore each of the 8 inch spindles and I used 2 holesaws per spindle. It's in my axle swap write-up. I had read somewhere about boring with a hole saw, but I never saw a write-up anywhere, so I went to the hardware store and came up with the double holesaw technique. I used a 1 1/2" holesaw because I was worried about cutting to much off, then I took off a little more with a small cylinder hone and some sanding drums.

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Yup, I stole your idea and ran with it... hence the disclaimer at the top of the write-up. :laugh: I did things alittle different and I was pleased with the results.
Honestly, I remembered reading it in a thread and couldn't remember where, otherwise I would have mentioned your name.

RCman's D60 Spindle Boring Write-up said:

Disclaimer: I’m not the first to do this, and I’m not claiming to be. I just thought I condense all of the information I have as well as part numbers I used to one place to make it easier for the next.

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I found that Starrett ‘OOPS’ Arbor A19 [Part # 66078] and thought that it would be prefect for that application. IIRC you used a second drill arbor? I didn't like that as the second 'inner' hole saw was to far away from the cutting saw. Either way it did its task very similarly. The 'OOPS' Arbor is a great little adapter, I've already used it on other things. Works wonders.

I wasn't worried with the 1-9/16" hole saw over the 1-1/2" as I was trying to get to the 1.630” of the D70 spindle. I achieved a 1.628" uniform smooth bore which was close enough for me!

As for your sanding drums versus my expansion reamers, they also get the job done. I just had access to the reamer and it made it easier. Expansion reamers that size aren't cheap (about $230-290 each for a decent one) so I can't see buying one just to bore the spindles. If someone else was to do it and didn't have the reamers, it would probably be best to leave it alone or take your sanding drum method.