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Check my CA brackets before I drill/weld

SnagglePuss

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Cameron Park, Ca
Do these look right before I drill mounting holes and weld crush sleeves?


Drivers side
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DSC01155.JPG


Passenger side
DSC01156.JPG


DSC01157.JPG


There is a 1/4" gap towards the front of the bottom mounting surface.
 
which setup is that? that gap looks out of place.....yeah?
 
xalexjx said:

I thought the bend in the arms are suppose to down not up. Wouldn't they hit the frame (uni-body) as they are set right now?
I was thinking bout those brackets and arms when I convert to long arm down the line. Just wondering how the brackets that just attached to the unibody hold up verses the whole cross member with the brackets on it.
 
A whole crossmember would be better, But that set up seems to be working good. The arms are bent that way for better clearence
 
I don't think the brackets themselves would be much worse off than a crossmember. Obviously you are losing some of that rigidity between them, but as far as how well they are mounted to the rails, I think they are comparable. For instance, there are 4 bolts per bracket on the RK brackets. That makes 8 total for the suspension. In another popular LA setup, the TNT y-link, there are 10 bolts holding the crossmember to the rails (not-counting the 2 for the transfer case skid portion). That means there are 10 bolts holding on the front suspension AND the tranny mount.

I've been thinking about running this setup. I'd probably bolt and weld the brackets on, and then pick up a beefy x-member like the TNT bellypan without arm mounts, or the DPG skid. If you wanted to, I'm sure you could manage to fab up another x-member tieing the two brackets together.
 
magimerlin said:
I thought the bend in the arms are suppose to down not up. Wouldn't they hit the frame (uni-body) as they are set right now?
I was thinking bout those brackets and arms when I convert to long arm down the line. Just wondering how the brackets that just attached to the unibody hold up verses the whole cross member with the brackets on it.
000_0103.jpg

Yes, they can limit up travel depending upon how bumpstop you use. A few other members on this board have had this problem. From what I have been told by them about 3" to 3.5" of bumpstop is required. This wasn't a problem when they still used straight arms.
 
SnagglePuss said:
Isnt that a typical amount of bumpstop required for a 4.5" lift w/33 or 35's anyway?

Sure unless you cut fenders like I do and can run 35" tires with 2" of bumpstop.
With 4.5" of lift you want to only gain 1.5" of up travel?

People with 32's buy it as an add-on with 4" of lift with soft springs and they bottom out.

With 6" of lift I gain 4" of uptravel, I like to go fast so thats important to me. I'll be building my own 3-link to fit my needs.
 
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