how does the rock krawler 3 link work?

does anybody have like a detailed under shot of the attachment points and such?

Do a search for it, there are many threads with howto's even. Even scroll to the bottom of this page to find some threads.

Installation has gotten easier (I think) than earlier RK kits. I'm doing a right-up here, but I'm not done with the install yet.

I tried a search and couldn't find it. I know there are some threads out there though.

For the upper link it has a plate that goes outside the rail ahead of the Xmember on the driverside. Sleeves go through metal and the heim attachment on the inside of the rail.

This write-up shows pics of the old weld-on kit. The new kits are bolt on, but this will give you an idea of what it looks like.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=88978

yeah im just curious in a picture write up of installing their newest bolt-on kit.

I figure this has been beaten to death but I'm still concerned about DDing those links... I wonder should I do a removable link on the drivers side for DDing.

As in, those links wearing out with DDing? or with the handling being shady?

lowrange2 said:

I figure this has been beaten to death but I'm still concerned about DDing those links... I wonder should I do a removable link on the drivers side for DDing.

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You'll have NO issues DDing a 3-link.. it's an urban legend.. Everyone always talks about this but there's been no issues as of late that i've heard of... Maybe a very few instances with the initial kits but not any more.

I think adding a "removable" link would be crazy... you're putting far more stress on the links offroad when compared to "onroad" driving.

I was thinking more along the lines of dipps and potholes at speeds... no pulling left or right on acceleration or braking?

lowrange2 said:

I was thinking more along the lines of dipps and potholes at speeds... no pulling left or right on acceleration or braking?

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You'll notice no difference what-so-ever... potholes/bumps... etc.. nothing.. The front axle isnt going to move in the directions you're thinking by simply removing one of the upper links..

I don't know. I dd my 3-link and I notice a pronounced "dip" to the passenger side when braking. Other than that and a stock trac-bar that moves around (I've used a 2 foot long cheater and it's still loose within a week) , and ripping off axle end CA mounts I have no problems.

I would definetly upgrade trackbars to something besides stock..... I'd go w/ something w/ a Heavy Duty bracket (RE/FT/TNT,etc.)... Also box in your lower mounts the stock are flemsy enough w/ the stock arm configuration... JKS makes a nice kit that's easy to weld on..

I've got both of my LCA brackets reinforced well and have a straight 1.5 .25 wall DOM tracbar with a stock bushing on one side and a hiem on the other... I assume that should be satisfactory. I'm going for that 3 link kit as soon as money permits.

lowrange2 said:

I've got both of my LCA brackets reinforced well and have a straight 1.5 .25 wall DOM tracbar with a stock bushing on one side and a hiem on the other... I assume that should be satisfactory. I'm going for that 3 link kit as soon as money permits.

Click to expand...

What size heim? And are you using the factory frame end bracket? IF you are running the factory bracket I would look into picking up a HD bracket so that you can prevent having to run single shear at that location...

No. I use the JKS over the axle bracket and a reinforced Rusty's HD mount... 7/8 Heim with 3/4 hardware.

lowrange2 said:

No. I use the JKS over the axle bracket and a reinforced Rusty's HD mount... 7/8 Heim with 3/4 hardware.

Click to expand...

:thumbup:

uncc civilengineer said:

I would still weld it.... bolt on just scares me especially when you're dealing w/ one full length upper...

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I just received my RK 3-link today. As everyone has said, it is beef. I agree that you should weld it in addition to bolting it on. Originally, I had planned to just weld it and skip the bolts, but after seeing the brackets in person, I realize now that they need to be bolted too. The fuel and brakelines run below the bracket on the drivers side, so now there are little spacers to hold the bracket away from the rail and from the lines so it doesnt smash them when torqued down.

The bracket is about 6" wide, which is significantly wider than the framerail. If you didn't bolt them at all, there would be about 1.5" of the bracket hanging off the framerail without any weld on it, and on the drivers side this includes the UCA mount since it is incorporated into the LCA bracket. Also, since the UCA mount is in the way, you wont be able to get a weld very far along the inside of the framerail...

I don't know much about loading and forces and all that incurred during wheeling or DDing, but I do know that I wouldn't trust my UCA to the bracket being only welded on. My camera is on the fritz, so if it decides to start working, I'll take some pictures so everyone can see what i'm talking about.

The last thing worth mentioning is that I believe, though I'm not certain, the frame bolts are grade 5. They have the 3 raised lines indicating grade 5, but there is also a raised triangle between two of the raised lines. I think this is simply a manufacturer's stamp. That said, I'll be upgrading these to Grade 8 when they go on.

I guess upgrading the frame bolts isnt a bad idea, but I see it completely unnecessary. Do you think those four bolts will shear off before the two bolts holding the upper and lower control arms will? Cause I sure don't. Just something to think about to save some time and money.