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Output shaft VS Cutting wheel?

ZacSquatch

ZacSquatch

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Fairbanks, AK
Who would win? Or must I remove the TC and do a H&T
 
cuttingwheel will win

I taped mine off, laid on my back, put my sheild on, and went to work. a 6 pack helps

Make the tape straight and stay on line. Ive heard putting the TC in N helps as it gets you a good pattern going.

I just eyballed it. leave about 1 1/8 of spline
 
Damnit, Whats that flange I need... Keep seaching to no Avail..
 
nvm...
Spicer Part # 211229x
Rockford Part # R2-21-1229
 
i had my jeep in reverse while cutting to get as straight of cut as i could
 
I kept mine in D but laid the opposite way... or held the grinder the other way... either way, keep it turning for a nice clean cut.
 
red_01_xj said:
i had my jeep in reverse while cutting to get as straight of cut as i could
Click to expand...

Interesting... I have a clamp on grinder base attachment as well, may see if theres something I can hook onto and make that sucker clean... My only worry after that is tapping...
 
RyanM said:
cuttingwheel will win

I taped mine off, laid on my back, put my sheild on, and went to work. a 6 pack helps

Make the tape straight and stay on line. Ive heard putting the TC in N helps as it gets you a good pattern going.

I just eyballed it. leave about 1 1/8 of spline
Click to expand...

Using a front drive shaft?
 
Make sure your center punch is dead center before you bang on it. Helps to have a nice drill with a level. Keep it straight as possible. SLide the flange on the ouputshaft if you need to. Take the tap nice and slow. using oil of some kind. back off of it ever so threads , close your eyes and blow it out. oil. repeat. Don't go too deep as to weaken output. I taped off my drill bit so that was hard to do.

ZacSquatch said:
Using a front drive shaft?
Click to expand...
I have the RE CVF or whatever. like 35inch collapsed. Did you see that Interception? oooooo
 
Pull the rear driveshaft.
Tape off output shaft according to directions that come with SYE.
Put rig in 'R', and start cutting with a grinder.
You should take 3 breaks and let the shaft cool and you are fine.
Then, use a center punch to mark the output shaft for drilling.
Put the yoke or SYE on the end of the shaft, and start with the drill.
Take your time, and all is good.
Stop worrying so much about such a simple project.
:soapbox:
 
skoolie72 said:
Pull the rear driveshaft.
Tape off output shaft according to directions that come with SYE.
Put rig in 'R', and start cutting with a grinder.
You should take 3 breaks and let the shaft cool and you are fine.
Then, use a center punch to mark the output shaft for drilling.
Put the yoke or SYE on the end of the shaft, and start with the drill.
Take your time, and all is good.
Stop worrying so much about such a simple project.
:soapbox:
Click to expand...

Just spent $35 on a new output seal from the stealership and rebuilt the damn thing, don't want to do it again to replace a output shaft.....
 
don't use a drill with a level... unless of course your t-case output is level to begin with.

I worried for 2 months... than did it in about 2 hours... what a waste of 2 months (I seriously just sat there waiting... lost 132lbs, never looked better tho)
 
Haha, Well.... The dorm parking lot will be full of beer cans on project day..
 
beakie said:
don't use a drill with a level... unless of course your t-case output is level to begin with.
Click to expand...
thats a good point. I don't think I did anyways. You would know if the bubble is level, then your not going straight into the output;)
 
the hole doesnt have to be dead center either...mine wasnt, but try as best as possible to
 
I just finished mine last week-

Think about it- it is more important that the cut be straight than that the hole is dead-on-balls center. Now, I'm not saying to just go drill the hole anywhere you want, but you want a nice flat surface to tighten that bolt and washer down onto, which you will get if you let it spin (engine running, trans in drive/reverse, whatever you feel like). The spinning will force both the CUT and the DRILL to be centered. You can almost just hold the drill and the fact that the shaft is spinning will bore your hole. If the shaft is spinning, it will also help keep your drill centered, because if you are out of "level" with the shaft, the fact that it is spinning will help re-center you. If your cut is crooked, the flange will want to torque inself into an imperfect face, and spin crookedly. Whereas if the hole is slightly off-center or even slightly crooked, as long as the face of the shaft is nice and flat, it will spin true.
 
Last edited:
Don't forget to put a slight chamfer on the shaft after cutting it.
 
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