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XJ Floor Pan Rusted Floors FAQ

ConnorMann

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Chicago
XJ Floor Pan Rusted Floors FAQ

Weeks of research and here we are...

Pan Sheet Metal
- Stock sheet metal is 20g.
- 18g to make it easier to weld, the main concern with the thickness is if you are welding it in, the thinner it is the tougher it is to weld
- You can get small 18x18 16 ga squares at places like Lowes or Menards
- Sheet metal screws to hold the panels in place while welding them up
- Sherman Parts out of Michigan. Replacement pans. http://www.shermanparts.com/page.php?c=shop&p=new_products&id=14
-Genuine OEM Front Floor Pan For 1984-01 Jeep Cherokee
http://www.discountjeepparts.com/product_info.php/cPath/3121_3123_3136/products_id/23946
-seal up the seams with roofing tar, spray both the interior and undercarraige with krylon rust elimnator spray.

Rust removal
- Harbor freight 18 ga Gauge Shear or Nibbler, Saws all, aircraft snips
-I would recommend a wire brush on an angle grinder. If you do not have an angle grinder you are going to need one. You can get a cheapo from harbor freight if you just want to get through this project.

Welding

-Hobart 135 and Lincoln 255 the Hobart was much better suited to a good
023 wire and C 25 gas
-Spot and Stitch Welder Set With Rods http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/...DUCT&iMainCat=608&iSubCat=613&iProductID=1172

Screwing
- Little sheet metal screws hex head ones with self-drilling tips
- They will draw the metal down nice and tight, with less initial work, and you then have the choice of leaving them in or simply unscrewing them
- Whether or not you expect to be fording any streams. You can also just skip the welding and hold the patches with screws they'll probably last just about as long as welded ones
- Just pick a reasonable size (3/16's) and about 1-1/2" spacing for flat areas closer for curves

Carpet or Not
- CASCADE TG-1(1G) THERMAGUARD HEAT SHIELD COMPOUND 1 GAL for the money it's 100% better than any other dampening product http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=268-232
- Hy-Tech Insulating Paint http://www.hytechsales.com/index.html
-Second Skin http://www.secondskinaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi
- Rhino lining or LineX. LineX is probably the toughest stuff out there.
-I plan to replace carpet with the Vinyl replacement this summer. IMO, it would be just a little easier to clean than Rhino, and easy on the wallet. I haven't decided on adding a sound deadening layer though. God knows I can hear every squeak, creak, and rattle
- Heavy-duty, 1/8" thick, black vinyl, custom molded to fit your vehicle's floor pan $170
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...Browse/s-10101
Carpet and Vinyl flooring http://www.auto-interior.com/jeep1.htm

ConnorManns Completely unskilled mechanics floorboard replacement

Material
Cut rusted areas out with harbor freight 18 gauge metal shears $29.99
Grind rust out harbor freight angle grinder $17.99
Permatex rust treatment $13.00
Sheet metal panels of various sizes from Lowe’s 22ga because did not have 20ga.
Sheet metal self drilling screws #8 x ½, #8 x ¾, #8 x 1, #8x 1 ¼ $10.00
Tube of Roofing Tar $1.77

How
Covered as many flat areas as possible
Bent sheet metal to conform to side of transmission tunnel,
I could not have done this with 16 ga
Overlapped sheet metal where possible
Put down thick bead of roofing tar from caulk gun
Note to self: make sure all pieces fit before applying roofing tar
Screwed all pieces down
Painted inside and out with Rustoleum
Sprayed 3m undercoating under XJ

Perfect Floorboard Treatment
Nothing to absorb water…will dry quickly
1. Por -15 or other rust treatment
2. Bedliner paint or rustoleum paint to seal floor
3. Refectix insulation from lowes or home depot (call ahead)
Does not absorb water
Heat and sound protection
Velcro to floor
3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive as primer then paint if wanted
4. Vinyl liner in place of carpet
5. Rubber driver and passenger floor mats

Good Luck and hope this helps!

ConnorMann
 
Just took delivery of the Sherman full floor pan for the passenger side. $143 delivered to my door (chicago). Very thick, heavy duty metal I'd say maybe 18 gauge or thicker, very impressed looks just like OEM.

I painted the bottom with rustoleum then a couple of coats of 3m rubberized underproofing. Painting the top with rustoluem then screwing it down. Putting reflectix insulaton down then the vinyl carpet replacement from JC Whitney and I will be done. Should last a long time.

Connor
 
I am about to get into an endevor like this any pics?
 
the Sherman pans are good but you can buy an entire(both sides an tranny hump) OEM front pan from Amazon.com for $158 delivered.It is the same pan discount jeep has, in fact it comes from them, just a lower S&H for Amazon.
I would use something other than Rustoleum. My rockers were painted on the inside with it and Zero Rust on the outside. I just removed them, insides were total rust while the outers were in great shape.
 
SWEET man this is a great help

im doing mine now.

hpim0886mediumsmalllo1.jpg


hpim0887mediumsmalllt1.jpg


floor1smallaq2.jpg


I went out and bought 2 4'x8' sheets of sheet metal, at 64 dollars per piece. Designed floor templates using cardboard. I cut them out and laid it ontop of the metal and traced around it and cut the peices to fit. Then we got it in the jeep and shaped and made some relief cuts, shaped it to the contour of the tranny tunnel, drilled holes for the seat bolts and drain hole. Welded it up and its going to be getting herculined soon. If i had to go back and do it again, I would buy the next thinner metal, 18 guage. 16 is really tough and hard to bend. We had to make a 90 Degree right angle bend and we ened up having to heat the metal to 700 degrees and made a home-made break to bend it.
 
Where did you have to make this 90 degree bend at? Hey dizzymac do you have a link for the floor pan from amazon?
 
1985xjlaredo said:
Where did you have to make this 90 degree bend at? Hey dizzymac do you have a link for the floor pan from amazon?

left side of picture, where the floor goes up the door. isnt an exact 90 degree but it does the job.
 
holy crap i thought i had it bad.....

im doin this this week/next week
i was wondering what guage was good.

thanks looks like ill be headin to lowes tommorow.

salt belt suk$ doesnt it...
 
i bought 16 guage and unless you have a plasma cutter and a sheetmetal break, i suggest getting the next thinner metal, 18 guage?

it will be easier to bend and shape and cut.
 
93_xj said:
left side of picture, where the floor goes up the door. isnt an exact 90 degree but it does the job.
Ok I see it there now Im a dummy lol. Why did you run the metal up the door jam? Is it easier to do it this way? I just went out and bought 18 and 20 guage metal. 18 for the floor and the 20 for and piecing in that i might have to do. I cant wait to gert the floor done and get the Bondo brand of line-X down Its going to be so nice when I'm done!:cool: :attom:
 
do you think that i could use JB Weld to weld it in? I have a little more metal left than you did. What are your plans for the floor covering,
Mine were to do sheet metal and jb weld, then Use a sheet metal roofing tar to seal the seams from the top and bottom. Then i was going to coat the thing with insulation/sealer and finish with a caot of bondo bed liner. I am doing the whole interior and dont want the carpet back in it. And what about the drain plug? Both of mine are gone, so I was thinking of those Lebaron ports that people have been putting in there hoods? What do you think 93_xj?
 
After the floors are in, we were going to seal all the seams, never really though about using roofing tar but that sounds like a good idea. After its all sealed up, i was gonna use herculiner and line the hole interior. For the drain plugs, Im gonna find the lowest points for front and back and drill holes in the floor and install a marine drain plug that they use on boats. I am gonna get some catch-all floor matts to finish it all up. I dont plan on putting carpet in at all because it will just get ruined during a water crossing.
 
Yea Im also a no go on the carpet. That was the reason I wanted to do the floor liner in the first place. I would clean the dam dash and then a day later it would be dusty with my prange carpet yuk! I pulled the rear carpet out and not too much rust! Ill put up some pics here in a few hours for ya all!
 
NAXJA Ok here are the pics of what I'm getting into.

2414441_17_full.gif
2414441_14_full.gif
That is the only hole in the floor besides the one that is under the rear trim piece.
I wish I could figure out why Jeep put so many dam drain holes into a vechile that has carpet? Every where I have a drain plug I have rust around it. And the plugs are almost impossible to remove unless I punch them out.
And Does anyone know what these plates are for? They look really bad from what I can tell and any Idea on where to get some replacements?
2414441_15_full.gif

They really dont seem to be doing much but I also havent taken out the rear seat?
Well hope I can get some feed back on this. THX:badpc: :geek:
 
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