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Skyjacker T case drop Questions....motor mount issues?

Nine Mile

NAXJA Forum User
Location
NJ
Hi all,

I recently finished lifting my 1994 (4.0/AW4/231) using a bastard pack in the rear with a 3/4" lift shackle and ZJ v8 coils with a 1.25" spacer up front. It netted me exactly 3" and I'm running BFG 31" AT's.

As soon as the lift was done I replaced the rear DS U joints and had the shaft professionally balanced by a driveline shop.

First I had slight grinding vibes only on deceleration....so I started to make a homemade T-case drop to see if it would help. Of course, the very first crossmember bolt snapped right off...great. Managed to drill and tap it out (a miracle) and decided to try and go with the skyjacker T-case drop kit so that I wouldn't have to drill and tap either of the studs. This is just a snow beater, not a wheeling rig, I am not interested in the cost or the effort to do an SYE and custom DS. In fact, that's the whole reason I bought a 94 to begin with, to avoid that. I will remove all the lift and bring it back to stock before I go with a SYE.

Now I have serious vibes coming from everywhere, but especially the front at anything over 50-55. I can feel them in the steering wheel AND in my butt now. I swapped out the front shaft and they are still there.

Last night I went out to measure angles and take another look at things. Seems that my angles are as follows in the rear: T case is pointed 6* down from horizontal, rear pinion pointed 9* up from horizontal. Measurements were taken at the valve cover and the flat circles next to the diff cover. They have been checked and rechecked. I figure a 4* shim with the fat part facing forward should put the rear in perfect sync, accounting for spring wrap, BUT:

I can see the stress that this drop is putting on the 120k mile motor mounts. They look horribly deformed and the rubber is almost pulling out of the mount towards the rear now. I guess I know where these front vibes were coming from. They are getting replaced immediately.

So now here is the question - is the skyjacker drop just too big? I think it measures almost 1.5". Would it be better to risk snapping both crossmember studs so that I can use a more reasonable drop, like 3/4"? If I snap them, there is a chance that my drilling and tapping will not go well (don't usually have the best luck with that) and that I will end up having to cut into the floor and using a through bolt and nut, which would suck. Can I even access the back side of the crossmember bolts through the floor or is there a frame rail of sorts in the way above them?

It actually looks like this drop causes so much misalignment in the motor mounts that I would NEVER be able to get a set of stiff mounts (like the MORE mounts) lined up again once I take the stock ones out.

Of course, if I can use a smaller drop, I'm going to also have to use a bigger shim, probably 6* to get the angles back in line...but I'd have to cross that bridge when I came to it.

What do you guys think? Anyone have extreme motor mount problems and such due to the skyjacker drop kit? Anyone having success with this drop over the long term and NOT replacing motor mounts every few months? It looks like it's just too big, is it?
 
I think you are seeing one of the huge downfalls to a TC drop....

Honestly....I thought an SYE would be a huge ordeal, and would be way beyond my mechanical abilities - but i did it, no problems, in an evening. Used a Front DS from an 89-01 XJ w/ AW4, and everything lined up perfectly. I highly suggest you do it "the right way", your motormounts, crossmember, TC, and u-joints will thank you.

I know you can get a PORC SYE for well less than $200, and easily get an XJ front shaft for $50 or less...
 
Did you check your toe? That could causing you front driveline vibes. I run around 4.5" of lift, no TC drop, no SYE, and only minimal vibes around 55 mph. My 91 XJ has 360,000 miles on it. Also, tires out of balance can cause vibes. I also have 33s.
 
That T-case drop is too much. Make one yourself and get rid of those studs. I'm not going to lie to you, I had a bitch of a time with one of mine. Ended up welding a nut to it and repeatedly heating and cooling it with Map gas and Deep Creep. Took a little time but no more studs on the T-case crosmember just regular grade 8s. You probably only need around a half inch or so. I made some shims with some 1/4 inch bar stock. I ended up with 1 inch with 4.75 inches of lift on my drop and no vibes on my 95.

An SYE is on standby once I get a DS and a D44.
 
icewolf73 said:
Did you check your toe? That could causing you front driveline vibes. I run around 4.5" of lift, no TC drop, no SYE, and only minimal vibes around 55 mph. My 91 XJ has 360,000 miles on it. Also, tires out of balance can cause vibes. I also have 33s.

It didn't vibrate from teh front before the T case drop....

Brand new tires (just balanced) and yup, I did a backyard alignment immediately following the lift.

Will double check toe again just to make sure though.
 
JNickel101 said:
I think you are seeing one of the huge downfalls to a TC drop....

Honestly....I thought an SYE would be a huge ordeal, and would be way beyond my mechanical abilities - but i did it, no problems, in an evening. Used a Front DS from an 89-01 XJ w/ AW4, and everything lined up perfectly. I highly suggest you do it "the right way", your motormounts, crossmember, TC, and u-joints will thank you.

I know you can get a PORC SYE for well less than $200, and easily get an XJ front shaft for $50 or less...

Would also have to have the shaft rebuilt for ~$200....or $100+ in parts if I take the time to do it myself.

Spending $500 more on a $1500 XJ is hardly worth it to me, especially after forking over the money for new tires.
 
kakirubi said:
That T-case drop is too much. Make one yourself and get rid of those studs. I'm not going to lie to you, I had a bitch of a time with one of mine. Ended up welding a nut to it and repeatedly heating and cooling it with Map gas and Deep Creep. Took a little time but no more studs on the T-case crosmember just regular grade 8s. You probably only need around a half inch or so. I made some shims with some 1/4 inch bar stock. I ended up with 1 inch with 4.75 inches of lift on my drop and no vibes on my 95.

An SYE is on standby once I get a DS and a D44.


Not at ALL what I wanted to hear, yet strangley it's exactly what I thought.

I've gotten those studs out on countless XJ's...always with a small pipe wrench. Guess I'm just going to have to try and be real careful.

If I break one and screw up the drill and tap fix, anyone know if there is there access from above by going through the floors?
 
Oh yeah, getting rid of 1" of drop is going to bring the T-case very close to horizontal again, isn't it? I have no desire to be using like an 8* shim., but I guess I will if I have to....
 
Rebuild the shaft? Um...okay...i didnt do jack to mine, bolted right up from the Ebay seller to my XJ...

I spent $250 total on my SYE/DS setup, probably the best money i've put into my jeep...and i didnt even get the PORC SYE...i went with the $212 one from JeepinOutfitters

as fast as you'll chew up Ujoints with the drop setup, it will add up quickly....good luck.

EDIT: forgot about the motor mounts too...and all the time you're wasting trying to do a TC drop....its all gonna add up...

If you pay someone else $200 to rebuild a <$50 DS....or pay $100 to do it yourself, well....
 
Last edited:
JNickel101 said:
Rebuild the shaft? Um...okay...i didnt do jack to mine, bolted right up from the Ebay seller to my XJ...

I already have several and they all need to be rebuilt....I would never slap an ebay shaft on anything without at least replacing the joints.

I spent $250 total on my SYE/DS setup, probably the best money i've put into my jeep...and i didnt even get the PORC SYE...i went with the $212 one from JeepinOutfitters

as fast as you'll chew up Ujoints with the drop setup, it will add up quickly....good luck.

I've probably put 300K on different Jeeps with T case drops....aside from replacing the ujoints once after lifting, I've never had to replace a u joint. If the angles are correct, they do no eat u joints any more frequently at all.

EDIT: forgot about the motor mounts too...and all the time you're wasting trying to do a TC drop....its all gonna add up...

If you pay someone else $200 to rebuild a <$50 DS....or pay $100 to do it yourself, well....



I guess maybe I was stuttering when I said that I would take it back to stock before bothering with an SYE?

This XJ needs to be driveable now. Winter weather is here and I do over 120 miles a day. I can not afford to have the Jeep down for a week while I do an SYE, measure for the shaft, get a driveshaft built, then tweak THOSE angles with shims, etc, etc.

I am not debating the merits of an SYE, sure it's the right thing to do. Is it feasible for me right now? No.
 
This is the way to go. Cost $150 with an sye already on a np231 t-case and
two front d/s's.

Just look for used.

MVC-019S-2.jpg
 
xalexjx said:
This is the way to go. Cost $150 with an sye already on a np231 t-case and
two front d/s's.

Just look for used.

MVC-019S-2.jpg

Does this vibe? The picture makes it look like the rear yolk is pointed pretty low...
 
Nine Mile said:
If I break one and screw up the drill and tap fix, anyone know if there is there access from above by going through the floors?

framenotch1.jpg


Most of the times I have seen vibes from a front shaft, its because the slip joint was worn, and lifting it caused the slip joint to have less engagement, enhancing the problem. Remove the front shaft until you have the rear vibes dealt with, and then address it.

At 3" of lift, I wouldnt do more than 3/4" of TC drop and no shims or 2* at the high end. You want to match the angles top and bottom, not line the bottom up..
 
cal said:
framenotch1.jpg


Most of the times I have seen vibes from a front shaft, its because the slip joint was worn, and lifting it caused the slip joint to have less engagement, enhancing the problem. Remove the front shaft until you have the rear vibes dealt with, and then address it.

At 3" of lift, I wouldnt do more than 3/4" of TC drop and no shims or 2* at the high end. You want to match the angles top and bottom, not line the bottom up..

Ouch. I definitely did not want to cut into that....

Well I got the studs out no problem with generous PB blaster, heat, and a 10" pipe wrench. Took all of 30 minutes.

I brought the drop down to 3/4" and now my angles are as follows: T case yoke pointed 5* down from horizontal, rear pinion 9* up from horizontal.

The motor mounts look MUCH happier now, but I'm replacing them along with the trans mount tonight. Will drive it later this week and let you all know what happens, but it still looks to me as if I'm going to have to shim the pinion down a bit.

Thanks for the help!
 
Nine Mile said:
I've probably put 300K on different Jeeps with T case drops....aside from replacing the ujoints once after lifting, I've never had to replace a u joint. If the angles are correct, they do no eat u joints any more frequently at all.





I guess maybe I was stuttering when I said that I would take it back to stock before bothering with an SYE?

This XJ needs to be driveable now. Winter weather is here and I do over 120 miles a day. I can not afford to have the Jeep down for a week while I do an SYE, measure for the shaft, get a driveshaft built, then tweak THOSE angles with shims, etc, etc.

#1, if you're such an expert, then why are you asking so many questions?

#2, ok smartass....

#3, for that much driving, Honda Civic?

I was just trying to help. You asked the questions.
 
I guess i was stuttering when I said that I got a front DS that worked perfectly for less than $50, without needing to be rebuilt for $100-200....put the SYE on in an afternoon, and was up and running with no vibes in <1 day.

But hey, go the complicated route. re-read my first post, I was trying to be nice and helpful....but now, well...i'll just drop to your level and be an ass too.
 
JNickel101 said:
I guess i was stuttering when I said that I got a front DS that worked perfectly for less than $50, without needing to be rebuilt for $100-200....put the SYE on in an afternoon, and was up and running with no vibes in <1 day.

But hey, go the complicated route. re-read my first post, I was trying to be nice and helpful....but now, well...i'll just drop to your level and be an ass too.

Sorry man, wasn't trying to "be an ass" but think about it from my point of view. I start out with something like "under no conditions am I going to put an SYE on this XJ" then you answer with "get an SYE, it's easy".

Sure a front DS for $50 off of ebay worked OK for you, but there is no guarantee that it would for me. Sure, you were able to install the SYE and get back up and running in about a day. There is no gurantee of that for me.

I'm going to be done and set to go mid-week this week. That would not be likely if I were going to install an SYE.
 
JNickel101 said:
#1, if you're such an expert, then why are you asking so many questions?

#2, ok smartass....

#3, for that much driving, Honda Civic?

I was just trying to help. You asked the questions.

#1 - Because I have never used a drop so big before. I didn't like it, wanted to verify that it's not a good idea. So I did, and now it's gone.

#2 - not sure what that was in reference to....

#3 - Honda civics do not do so well in the snow, in the mountains. But yes, I also have a Honda.
 
I hope it works out for the best for you. You're lucky you have a 94, so you're a little more vibe tolerant from the get go than I was with my 00. I was getting crazy vibes with just a budget boost lift.

Good luck with your shimming! You gonna go with 4*?
 
JNickel101 said:
I hope it works out for the best for you. You're lucky you have a 94, so you're a little more vibe tolerant from the get go than I was with my 00. I was getting crazy vibes with just a budget boost lift.

Good luck with your shimming! You gonna go with 4*?

Thanks man. With a 96+ I would have been prepared to either do an SYE or keep it stock ;) I have mildly lifted two 1998's and also got vibes even with just like an inch of lift on them....

Yup, since my angles are 5* and 9*, I'm going to start with a 4* shim.
 
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