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Another break problem

dodo4bird

NAXJA Forum User
Location
colorado
put new lift on, longer break lines in rear, broke bleeder nipple on rear cylinder. replaced cylinder, (springs and pads look good, as breaks were fine before lift) i can not seem to figure out the drum break adjuster lever. does some one have a close up pic of this. i can not seem to get it to stay on the adjuster wheel (i assume that it is suppose to be on the wheel)
thanks
 
The lower brake spring clips into the top of it, as well as the cable that is hooked to the upper anchor pin (can't see it in this pic).
HTH,
Jeff

Picture002.jpg
 
Not sure which axle you have.
Jeff posted pics of a D44 so I'll post my lousy pics of my D35.

I had the same problem and haven't solved it properly yet. The adjuster lever DID contact the star wheel with the old shoes and springs. Now that the new parts are in, the lever no longer contacts the star wheel. Cable, lever, lever retainer spring and adjuster wheel assembly are the original pieces, so I'm stumped.

Here's a link to my thread on this problem:
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=936250

closeup2.jpg


closeup1.jpg
 
actually, that was the '35 that used to live under my MJ:eek:

But, the '44 is the same setup. Here's a pic of the loaded drums on it now, you can see the whole setup better:

brakes.jpg
 
lol.. break.. guess thats why im an accountant. i guess for some reason i thought that the brake adjust ment lever was suppose to be on the adjustment wheel but if lasabre400 pic are correct im almost done.
 
You could get the 10" drums on a D35? I guess that would be a towing or police package deal?

Just to clarify then, my pics are of the 9" drums.
And Dodo, my pictures are NOT correct - I'm having the same problem you are.

I think I'll go research disc brake conversions...
 
Last edited:
Jeff in VA said:
actually, that was the '35 that used to live under my MJ:eek:

But, the '44 is the same setup. Here's a pic of the loaded drums on it now, you can see the whole setup better:

brakes.jpg
That setup definitely differs from the later 9 inch. I don't know what year the original post refers to, but Lesabre's picture matches my 95 and 99.
 
Jeff in VA said:
actually, that was the '35 that used to live under my MJ:eek:

But, the '44 is the same setup. Here's a pic of the loaded drums on it now, you can see the whole setup better:

brakes.jpg
where can I get those xj44 loaded drum set up
 
sorry, I shoulda mentioned my MJ is '87 vintage. Old skool stuff I'm running:)

I got those loaded sets from a guy over on comancheclub.com who was gonna redo his '44, but didn't.....got lucky on that one. I had a set of D44a disc assemblies ready to go on, but those showed up at the same time.

(still have the '44a disc setup, if anyone's looking to go disc?). I swapped in a '96 XJ dual diapraghm booster/master combo, and am only running 31" tires now, so I have no need for any more braking.

Jeff
 
lesabre400 said:
Not sure which axle you have.
Jeff posted pics of a D44 so I'll post my lousy pics of my D35.

I had the same problem and haven't solved it properly yet. The adjuster lever DID contact the star wheel with the old shoes and springs. Now that the new parts are in, the lever no longer contacts the star wheel. Cable, lever, lever retainer spring and adjuster wheel assembly are the original pieces, so I'm stumped.

Here's a link to my thread on this problem:
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=936250

closeup2.jpg


closeup1.jpg
Looks like you may not have the cable going to the top pivot post on correctly, only reason I can think of why it's not on the star.
 
I had the same problem when I bought my 99 as lesabre has. The previous owner had had the brakes redone, and whoever did it did not seat the upper cable guides properly in the holes. If you look at the upper cable guide, you'll see that it rests in a hole in the shoe, and then the upper spring goes through the hole in the guide. It's very easy to have the guide not sit properly in the hole, and still get the spring hooked on. Once it's together it's not obvious where the problem is. The replacement set of guides has very shallow bosses to fit into the shoe hole, and falls out easily before you get the spring properly in. If your cable seems just a little too long, look there for the problem.
 
thanks for the help! I got the rear brakes done and bleed the front and rear but they seem a little loose. i have bleed brakes before but it has been on motorcycles. all the nipples are bleeding clear air bubble free brake fluid. I have never worked with drum brakes before. anything i could of missed.

By the way got my 4WD linkage braket made and now have both 4hi and 4low working great!!
 
Glad to hear it. Sorry for half-hijacking your thread. Guess I'll go back in and check that guide piece AGAIN.

If you're brakes are still soft, you may still have air. Might want to keep bleeding them just to be safe.
 
I have done it twice now and still loose. would it help if i park on a hill facing up or down to help get those bubbles out? or just keep bleeding the brakes untill i get the results
 
As for the star wheel "catch" thing....there's a cable which holds tension on it so it contacts the star wheel. Unhook and twist the cable and hook once or twice, then rehook it. That should build some tension for the "catch" or "hook" to contact the star wheel.

I am not sure if that is right but it seems to do the job. That's not the only problem I had with my brakes, the "guides" were not sitting in the correct holes either...as mentioned.

Actually the star catch cable was BEHIND the guides because they were not positioned correctly, leaving a gap behind the guides.

But my shoes are worn now.....so quickly.

Seems the front pads from AutoZone suck bad. Which makes the drums work harder.....
 
Blaine B. said:
As for the star wheel "catch" thing....there's a cable which holds tension on it so it contacts the star wheel. Unhook and twist the cable and hook once or twice, then rehook it. That should build some tension for the "catch" or "hook" to contact the star wheel.

I am not sure if that is right but it seems to do the job. That's not the only problem I had with my brakes, the "guides" were not sitting in the correct holes either...as mentioned.

Actually the star catch cable was BEHIND the guides because they were not positioned correctly, leaving a gap behind the guides.

But my shoes are worn now.....so quickly.

Seems the front pads from AutoZone suck bad. Which makes the drums work harder.....
I put AutoZone pads on the rear of my wife's Volvo. One day she hit the brakes and heard/felt a "BANG" and the brakes got very noisy. The lining had fallen off one of the pads! Keep that receipt. Autozone has a good warrantee policy, at least.
 
Yeah, third time I've replaced front pads in about a year and a half.

The return policy is good, but it sucks. Lifetime warranty without being paid for a lifetime of labor and replacement.....ugh.
 
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