What's the truth about the clutch slave cylinder???

I searched, and haven't found a definitive answer. I need to replace the clutch slave cylinder on my 94 with the AX-15. I have the cylinder unbolted, but can't get the hose removed. The dealership says that it is all one unit, comprised of the master cylinder, slave cylinder and connecting hose, as do several posts on this board. Checker and Autozone list both the master and slave cylinders as seperate units, although Autozone's online repair guide states that the system is serviced as a complete assembly only. Several posts have indicated that the slave cylinder can be replaced independently of everything else. I have been up and down and left and right through this forum trying to figure this out, but to no avail. Here's the only info I could find in other threads regarding the slave cylinder:

Kejtar said:

what year is the jeep? from a particular year on the clutch is one piece system: you buy the slave and master and line all already setup and tehre is no way that I know of to separate them.

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Matthew Currie said:

Actually, though Jeep would like you to believe that this is true, you can indeed buy a slave cylinder separately. The line connection is not conventional, using some kind of trick union with a cross pin in it, but my son was able to get a separate slave cylinder for his 96. We ended up not putting it in because I judged that it wasn't needed (he had a Jetta before, and it's taking him a little time to get used to a clutch/tranny system that drags a little even when it's all right). The original setup, as well as the replacement he got, comes with a tapped but undrilled bleeder hole and no actual bleeder. I have no idea whether or not you can also get the line itself separately. The whole system seems to be designed to frustrate owners and confound mechanics.

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If the slave cylinder can be removed from the hose, how is it done?

ETA: Here's the thread where the above quotes were taken: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=39377&highlight=slave+cylinder

If you have the external slave cylinder it's all one piece, when you order a new one it comes with slave, hose and master already pre-filled and bled, when you take it out of the box don't just uncoil it, unroll it instead so you get no kinks in the line and do not open the lid of the master until you get it installed but you really have no reason to unscrew the cap, it's already prefilled.
The internal slave has the multiple piece construction where you can remove the hoses to the slave and master and replace them.

That's what I don't understand because the cylinder available from AutoZone is an exact match for mine, including the mounting flange. It is listed for my specific vehicle but it doesn't have the hose attached. That's why I quoted the two posts above - one is stating one piece, while another is stating that the cylinder can be replaced independently.

I've not seen a separate slave for the external, every one I have replaced on a YJ, TJ and an XJ always came as a complete unit already together except for the internal type.

http://www.autozone.com/N,11200726/shopping/partTypeResultSet.htm

Not trying to discredit you or anything, Rich. Just trying to get this problem resolved. That's exactly what mine looks like, except now it's unbolted and hanging from the hose.

The fitting at the end of the hose has a radial groove, and it's held in the cylinder by a cross pin. You need to press out the cross pin, and the hose end will come out. Watch out for O-rings, don't lose the pin, and make sure it all stays clean.

My son recently replaced the slave on his 96. At first we hadn't thought it necessary, but later he decided to go ahead with it, since he couldn't exchange it. It was a pretty simple affair. We put it together, initially bled it as much as possible by simply pushing the slave in as far as it would go, and then letting it come out again a few times. The slave is designed so that it displaces as much fluid as there is in the line. After installation it still seemed a little mushy, but after some use it firmed up.

e.t.a in case you didn't figure this out: we did not bother to use a bleeder. The hole for the bleeder in the slave was tapped, but blind, and we decided not to chance messing it up by drilling. It turned out not to be necessary anyway.

Thanks. Are you referring to the small hollow pin that runs across the hose where it meets the slave? I presume the installation of the new slave just entails pushing that pin back in to secure the hose?

yes

http://www.tellico4x4.com/product_i...21833?osCsid=cbe7803efc768b317a58098884123bd6
I guess it depends on how much you pay, I figure if the slave cylinder is gone you might just as well replace the whole thing.

Thanks for the respones. I'll see if this works by taking that pin out.

I got the slave cylinder replaced. Pushing the pin out was a fairly easy affair; took all of about 3 seconds to remove the pin and detach the hose. The new slave installed in about 10 minutes. I think the bleed valve is blocked though, as no air or fluid would release. The clutch feels soft, but after some driving it should firm up a little.

A big thanks to those who provided input.

Gunner73 said:

I got the slave cylinder replaced. Pushing the pin out was a fairly easy affair; took all of about 3 seconds to remove the pin and detach the hose. The new slave installed in about 10 minutes. I think the bleed valve is blocked though, as no air or fluid would release. The clutch feels soft, but after some driving it should firm up a little.

A big thanks to those who provided input.

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On the slave my son bought, the place for the bleeder was there, and threaded, but there was no passage drilled. We left it that way and it did firm up with use.

That's pretty much how mine is. I'll try removing the cap on the master cylinder and pumping the clutch pedal for a bit to try and get at least some of the air out.

Thanks for all your input Matthew!

now you have to replace the hydraulic line and master separately shorter down the road