Engine time! Advice/opinions please?

Planning and budgeting to do an engine swap with rebuild in my '89 XJ limited with auto transmission.

In addition to the engine which I haven't fully decided on yet, here's what I think should be replaced when the rebuilt engine goes in:

Water pump
Engine ground cable(s)
Exhaust manifold - current one is cracked
Motor mounts - MORE or Brown Dog? OEM no thanks...
Harmonic balancer pulley - any GREAT aftermarket options out there?
Knock sensor - current part isn't that old, might reuse?
Radiator - current is one year old, probably not?
Engine fan clutch - current is only a couple years old.
Coolant hoses
PCV system and all vacuum hoses
Injectors - no apparent problems but they've got +150k miles on current?
Fuel pressure regulator - no current issues but at least as old as injectors?
Accessory drive belt - idler pulley too perhaps?
TPS - OEM or generic?
IAC - already gotta couple of those, various brands.
O2 - probably if not switching fast.
CPS - OEM or ???
Obviously, new fuel/oil filters
Distributor? Heck, I think it's original with about 300k miles?

Will test air temp sensor and MAF.
Maybe TB to 60mm?
Check flex plate for cracks and/or loose bolts...

Plan to reuse current alternator, starter and power steering pump.

Am I missing anything important here? Will probably do a little cleaning and maybe painting in engine compartment while empty - tips or ideas?

thanks!

how many miles is on teh one ur taking out? so wait r u swap in a rebuilt motor or rebuilding ur current one in ur jeep? sounds like a good list to me.

projectTK said:

how many miles is on teh one ur taking out? so wait r u swap in a rebuilt motor or rebuilding ur current one in ur jeep? sounds like a good list to me.

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300k miles - heads never been off. Main issue is oil leaks but the metal has some wear too. I'd love to do a blueprint/stroker but that's not on the table. By the time/$$$ I do an in-frame with minimum rings, timing gear/chain, machine shop head and seals it's getting close to cost of rebuilt engines. Plus, if I go the in-frame route and discover I need bore/deck work - I don't have enough time or capability to even R&R the engine... So, a rebuilt engine swap will probably be done by a shop.

I'm talking to some places and looking for a shop who at least cares about doing it right and won't mind using a few replacement parts I source from the outside.

I can't remember the name but there's a nationally recognized engine rebuilder in my area (literally across the street from a well equipped shop I've used for SMOG tests) and I've seen Jasper and others advertised for years. I'm in San Diego - suggestions are welcome!

The irony is that I rarely use a shop for anything except SMOG so I'm the last person to ask for advice about where to take my vehicle for service. I'm not afraid to spend some money on this job, guessing $2-$2.5k with everything so far? I was getting close to $1k parts + head machine shop for a minimum in-frame doing most of the work myself.

thanks!

I would go with jasper they ship thier engines to very reputable indtallers and they are long blocks

I'm looking at replacing mine too, 334k miles and I just found out that the coolant has been blocked from the upper half of the engine for who knows how long.

Might think about getting a Jeep crate dealer install, which I've seen listed for about $4k (not too bad). Jasper is a reasonable pick, since they remanufacture engines instead of just rebuilding them so you get improvements over Jeep crate replacements, and they have a solid production history. However they are on the expensive side at $2500 for the 4.0 HO and that does include the $500 core charge or shipping, nor does it include installation. For that same $3k you can get stroker from Golan (still need it installed).

Another option is to just throw in a junkyard mystery motor until you get around to doing it right. Since I'm also doing a bunch of lift and body work I may go that route, and defer the whole engine rebuild until I have finished with the rest of it.

I'm planning to replace every accessory whenever I get around to it. I'm pretty sure I'll do the electric fan setup while the front is off, and I'll probably do all of the pumps and sensors and everything else so that I know I won't have to mess with any of that crap again for a few years.

Thanks! I'm getting in deep and perhaps setting my budget a little low? 'wife's GPS will have to wait!

Golan (actually Golen get's more accurate search hits) - a good one! Will give it more look. Jasper certainly seems a quality outfit - 'might have to rethink keeping the old radiator due to not-so-small print lifted from their site:

A PREVIOUS FAILURE CAN CAUSE DEBRIS TO LODGE IN THE ORIGINAL COOLER.
WE RECOMMEND THE COOLER BE REPLACED. PROOF OF A COOLER PURCHASE
MAY BE REQUIRED IF BEARING FAILURE OCCURS ON YOUR NEW ENGINE.

Now, I haven't had any previous engine failure and we could surely flush the trans cooler in rad and drop-in a new external cooler but I don't blame them for requiring this step. In fact, I dig their approach very much and appreciate their company's attention to critical details.

Golen and other performance offerings appear to be more off-road orientated and I'm stuck with SMOG testing - other than "maybe" getting away with a bored TB I think the longblock will need to remain close to OEM.

Will keep checking back here and maybe get a few photos and try to provide decent description of the entire job as it comes down. Sometime between now and May - I hope? Kinda depends when I get-to 'Nissan 300ZX timing belt service looming 10k miles from now... 300k miles and never touched cam drive on our beloved Jeep!

I called the local Jeep junkyard a couple of hours ago and they have an engine with 126k miles for $650... Good thing I am broke or I would have bought it.

jimgrms said:

I would go with jasper they ship thier engines to very reputable indtallers and they are long blocks

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X2 Give then a callhone:

I pulled the engine in my 90' and had it rebiult by a local speed/machine shop that has a good reputation with the 258/242. The only thing I re-used was the valves, head, block and crank. Everything else is new. They had to bore it 40 over and deck the block/mill the head. They pressured it up after assembly and gave me a 2 year/24k warranty. After I dropped it back in I replaced all of the RENIX inputs/outputs including the injectors, dist.(reman unit), fuel pump and anything else under the hood you can think of.

Engine rebuild complete-$1800
Replace all RENIX inputs/outputs-$800

Runs like new, actually it runs better than the day my dad drove it home back in 90'.