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new front axle

J

jeepster96

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Port townsend,WA
whats the best front axle to upgrade from the d30? would a d44 work from a wrangler? i have a seal leaking on it now i would rather just upgrade then tear in to it.
 
TJ rubicon will work, but just remember they're set up for 4.10 gearing and an air locker...I think you have to mod the bracketry a little bit too, but I may be wrong....
 
The "best" is a relative term without knowing a budget. A few to consider before swapping the entire axle...
Axleshafts with 297/760 u-joints.
Super30 with Alloy shafts and u-joints

Replace the weak passenger side UCA mount with a thicker aftermarket mount, or box in the OEM bracket as a bare minimum.

Same goes for both of the LCA mounts.

Wanna spend some more?

Build a HP Dana44 out of a Ford. 1/2" thick tubes make this a very strong axle. Add alloy shafts and u-joints for even more strength.

Wanna go crazy? Dana60 with alloy shafts and.....well you get the picture.

Keep in mind that building/installing a bullet proof axle means that something else in your drivetrain will become the weak link. The weakest link is the one that's gonna bite ya out on the trail when you're as far from a parts house as you can possibly be, so plan for it and pack spare parts and tools.
 
jeepster96 said:
whats the best front axle to upgrade from the d30? would a d44 work from a wrangler? i have a seal leaking on it now i would rather just upgrade then tear in to it.
Click to expand...


This may come out a bit more gruff than its meant, but if you're asking this question, you don't need an axle upgrade yet. The dana 30 is PHENOMINAL for what it is. With the right upgrades guys FLOG them with 35" tires on the big rocks with minimal carnage.

What year is your rig? What size tires / gears / type of wheeling do you do?
 
I agree with cal but I do use a Rubicon 44 axel because I happened across one cheap. The Rubicon axel bolts right in with no modification except a yoke swap and driveshaft shortning. IMOP you still need cromoly axels,new lower control arm mounts and upper right controll arm mount plating on both the 30 or the 44. If I had to do it again I would only consider full width axels and the full width 44 dosen't use the same 30 outer stuff that the Rubicon axel does. It uses heavier stuff.
 
Stumpalump said:
I agree with cal but I do use a Rubicon 44 axel because I happened across one cheap. The Rubicon axel bolts right in with no modification except a yoke swap and driveshaft shortning. IMOP you still need cromoly axels,new lower control arm mounts and upper right controll arm mount plating on both the 30 or the 44. If I had to do it again I would only consider full width axels and the full width 44 dosen't use the same 30 outer stuff that the Rubicon axel does. It uses heavier stuff.
Click to expand...

Its not just the outer stuff, -everything- in TJ rubicon 44 is the same as the d30, except the actual third. Its still got the same thin tubes, and then of course weak d30 outers.

I'm of the opinion that the low pinion 44 is no stronger than a high pinion 30 - so unless you are looking for 5.13's there is absolutely nothing to gain except driveline vibes. :)


Take your d30, throw a TNT truss on it, some alloy usa shafts and x-joints, call it done.
 
huh well i never thought the 30 was that great but i could just dump the cash in to it and call it good. i want 35s under it soon.. i have 33s now with plenty of room for 35s but i want to make the front axle stronger before doing to be on the safe side. thanks
 
jeepster96 said:
huh well i never thought the 30 was that great but i could just dump the cash in to it and call it good. i want 35s under it soon.. i have 33s now with plenty of room for 35s but i want to make the front axle stronger before doing to be on the safe side. thanks
Click to expand...


Unless your getting stupid on the throttle, call alloy usa and get some shafts, get a strong diff cover (crane, solid) and a reasonable truss (tnt) and you're good to go. Run quality gears (superior/precision/spicer) and you will be more than fine. Those people who talk constant trash on the dana 30 did build it right. :)

I will put my d30 up against any equally built 44 on the same tire size with full confidence that it will not break.
 
A question on trussing the D30: Is this something that is done primarily for rigs that run Jeepspeed type stuff? Is there really a positive benefit/cost gain in trussing a D30 on a rig that sees moderate/slightly rough trail use? Are the tubes very prone to bending/seperating from the diff?

I took the time and research to build my D30 as stout as I figured I needed, (trussed the 3 CA mounts, Ox locker/cover, Yukon shafts/super joints) and I don't do Jeepspeed-type wheeling, it's a moderate/tough trail crawler. Are people bending/breaking tubes and housings on standard trail running?
 
I've seen 1 d30 housing break in half (but that guy was very abusive and it had been in a pavement rollover), and a couple of times where the plug welds broke loose at the third member and spun a tube. The truss will help prevent that, and give you stronger UCA mounts (the tnt truss at least). Its not been a 'big' problem though no.

The stronger diff cover is more of a help, the theory seems to be that it will help prevent the third from deforming and allowing ring gear deflection. How much it really helps? I don't know. I know I havent broken -my- 30 yet, and its not for lack of abuse.
 
cal said:
I've seen 1 d30 housing break in half (but that guy was very abusive and it had been in a pavement rollover), and a couple of times where the plug welds broke loose at the third member and spun a tube. The truss will help prevent that, and give you stronger UCA mounts (the tnt truss at least). Its not been a 'big' problem though no.

The stronger diff cover is more of a help, the theory seems to be that it will help prevent the third from deforming and allowing ring gear deflection. How much it really helps? I don't know. I know I havent broken -my- 30 yet, and its not for lack of abuse.
Click to expand...

I had the same thoughts regarding the thick diff cover, and hadn't heard any testimonials about the tubes themselves being a problem. I've already trussed the pass UCA mount, I'm just gonna go with what I have.

Thanks for the feedback.
 
Thats probably sufficiant. I sleeved my tube in 3x.250" DOM and then trussed on top of that, but I set out with the goal of seeing how far you could take a 30 and not just squeeking by with not breaking it.

The one thing I didnt do and wish I did (but meant to, long story) was gusset the inner C's. I'll be going back and doing that next time I have my tube seals out.
 
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