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New IGN Switch + Wires - now wont start

TLowery04

TLowery04

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Cashion Oklahoma
Ok, my jeep blew the ignition switch, wires burned together, switch shot, caused my wipers-blinkers-radio and heater to go out. minor annoyance.

took everything apart one night, found out it was blown, then went to phx and puled some misc parts i needed and new wires. picked up a new switch, sliced everything together and thought i was good to go.

now it wont start, the gauges come on, and i hear a tick tick tick noise - but wont turn over


any ideas? I really need help on this one, its my daily driver.

-Trent
 
What year XJ?
First thing to check is the battery lugs and the main cable connections. Most common cause for the solenoid to click and the starter not to turn over is a lack of amperage. Low battery or connections. It's possible to get voltage, but not enough amperage to get the job done.
If that doesn't help, there is some more stuff to check later.
 
this is on a '89

gotta try to jump start it i guess, nobody around up here in flagstaff with a spare vehicle though =\ everyone went down to phx vegas and yuma for the holiday.
 
8Mud said:
What year XJ?
First thing to check is the battery lugs and the main cable connections. Most common cause for the solenoid to click and the starter not to turn over is a lack of amperage. Low battery or connections. It's possible to get voltage, but not enough amperage to get the job done.
If that doesn't help, there is some more stuff to check later.
Click to expand...

(+1) I'm betting this short drained and possibly damaged your battery. Good luck!! :patriot:
 
well, everything under the hood looks ok, re-connected and cleaned the connections to the battery, and used my 1980 pinto to try and start it.

no dice.
the only things i worked on were under the dash, and i re-connected everything, even the bulbs.

is there anything else i can check?

I'm going down to humboldt today to pick up another '89 with a bad ecm, so I might not be available again until tonight but I'll try to get as much done on it as i can while I'm here,

-Trent
 
muddymopar said:
check your fusiblle link wires down by the battery worked for me same problem
Click to expand...


worth the time to double check =)
 
i think this may be better left up to a mechanic, unless anyone has a sudden epiphany as to what may be causing this.

getting on the road, if anyone sees a little box truck carrying a jeep up the 17 gimme a beep
 
Possible whatever caused your ignition switch to melt down is causing problems now, it's a wonder if a fusible link or at the minimum a fuse didn't blow somewhere.

Next step is the starter relay.

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Fairly self explanatory, pull the solenoid wire and touch it to the large power lug. Be careful it can scorch the connector. Possible the insides of the starter relay are rust or worse.

Next step is to whack the side of the starter with a hammer. Often the starter needs needs a little spin so the solenoid seats all the way (all you get is a click). If the brushes are weak (or covered in oil or mud) it will sometimes not spin up, whacking It with a hammer will sometimes seat the brushes enough for a few more starts.
 
the motor does not crank over, and I dont know how to go about bypassing the switch, and would it hurt to start it with the column down? Im not too fond of starting it without everything in place if you know what i mean =\
 
Fairly simple the ignition terminal gets power when the key is turned to start. The ground terminal goes through the neutral safety switch to ground- Power to the ignition terminal with a ground through the neutral safety switch, actuates the relay. Which when actuated supplies power from the battery terminal to the solenoid and fuel pump terminal.
 
ok, the bypass gets the engine to turn over, but not start, do i need to pump the gas or something?
 
i was having major mechanical problems with my 1989 ignition lock, it would only let me turn the key to the "start" position on its own terms. i ended up wiring a 40amp relay with a hidden momentary trigger that energizes the starter solenoid, for the engine to fire the key must be placed in the "run" (or "on" or maybe even "3" by some people) position then the trigger is held until the engine can run on its own.

take it as you will, but i hope i was of some sort of help.
 
ok, everything works now except the ignition.

have to trip the solenoid to get it to start.

ideas?
 
ruled out NSS just in case,

how hard would it be to do a push button ignition? and would that hurt anything?
 
TLowery04 said:
ruled out NSS just in case,

how hard would it be to do a push button ignition? and would that hurt anything?
Click to expand...

First question, does anything work ie. power windows, heater blower motor, gages or the clock when you turn the key to run?
Next question do you get juice to the green wire (Ign pole) at the starter relay, grounding to the battery negative, with the key turned to start? Use a test light or volt meter.
Next question, slit the dark green wire near the ignition switch lengthwise a half inch or so and test from the wire (core) to a good chassis ground, with the key turnjed to start, do you get power? Tape up the slit.

1: tests if your fusible link is blown. If you have power, go to number 2.
2. tests if you are getting power to the relay. If you have power, the problem isn't the switch or harness (probably).
3. tests if you are getting power out of the switch, but possibly not through the harness. If you are getting no power out of the switch (grn wire) but power to the blower motor, it's likely the switch.
 
I'll have to try it out when i get off work at 8 tonight, seems to be a step in the right direction though :gee:
 
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