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ok, will this work?

jstone8952

NAXJA Forum User
Location
florida
3" coils & 2-3" coil spacers, 3" block and shackle or addaleaf, redrilled track bar hole and a tcase drop? im thinking it will but still not sure. i call it my poorhouse budget boost...
 
will it work, yeah
is it safe, no

at 5" you need control arms brake lines shocks ect., dont be half assin that stuff
 
On the 97+ you'll still have bad driveline vibes at that height.
You won't get a lot of down-travel due to shocks & brake lines limiting it - pray the shock limits before the brake lines.
Your rear springs will suffer badly from blocks.
Your caster will be way out of whack, probably beyond what stock arms can handle in front.
Save some cash. Do it right. Keep other drivers safe.
 
:*( ok... lol just trying to figure suspensions out. im not good at geometry and that is all this is. throw a little and risk assesment and insanity in and i might just start understanding this all...
 
i thought about sitting down and making some long arms, but im afraid of putting something that makes sense to me together and putting it on and killing myself or someone else... it is, after all, a daily driver...
 
coincidentally why is it that blocks are so bad for cherokees? most companies that sell lift kits for other trucks offer blocks as a general rule... is it because a bed is lighter than an xj rear or is there a difference in how a cherokee's suspension works all together that sets it apart?
 
XJ rear suspension is pretty standard, really. It is, however, a lot more back-heavy than my old F-150 or anyone else's for that matter.
Also - people don't tend to wheel full size pickups the same way XJs are wheeled (high flex, rocks etc) and a full-size has much stiffer springs in back than an XJ. Couple flexier (easier to bend backwards) springs and a heavier rear and you're going to warp some leaf packs.
 
so the wheeling is the culprit when a leaf gets warped. afraid to mention it but i am running the blocks on mine... about 5 months and no problems (not a long time, i know)... i have an add a leaf sitting in the garage. don tknow whether to make use of it or not.
 
Junkyard bastard packs are even cheaper.
Buy yourself some stock XJ packs from the junkyard, combine both packs, clamp them up and enjoy 3.5" or so. Add 1.5" shackles and you've got 5" done right, safe, durable and it will flex.
 
Redrilling should be fine. A good adj. trac-bar would be best. If you re-drill, you likely will get just one shot at centering the axle correctly and will need do some measuring and some math to work out exactly where to drill - and, again, you'll only get one shot. It also won't help you to have re-drilled if you ever want to change suspension height, for any reason.
 
jstone8952 said:
what about redrilling the trac bar- is that a bad idea completely or can you do it right?


Redrilling the trackbar will get you by for 2-3 maybe 3.5" lift. Beyond that, the trackbar is going to be at or exceeding the maximum movement of the upper end at ride height, and not able to droop. At the 6" level, to be safe, it really is required to have some kind of heavy duty trackbar setup with an aftermarket or custom mount.
 
This is what is involved in an RE 5.5" lift kit. Each item is there for a reason - look at each, one at a time, figure out what it does, and then figure out how you are addressing that same problem on the cheap. If you don't have a good solid answer, you arent ready to instal and need to buy or build something else.

This does not cover SYE, which you are likely also going to need to do.

RE1141 ~ GEN2 DISCONNECTS 2"-3.5" TJ,
RE1345 ~ COIL SPRINGS XJ-5.5 / ZJ-4.
RE1383 ~ BUMPSTOPS 3" FRONT LOWER
RE1462 ~ LEAF SPRING XJ 4.5" W/BUSHING
RE1515 ~ BRAKE LINE SS REAR 18"
RE1550 ~ BRAKE LINE SET SS FRONT 22"
RE1660 ~ TRACK BAR, XJ/ZJ EXTREME-DUTY
RE1665 ~ TRACK BAR BRACKET, HD XJ/ZJ
RE2120 ~ T-CASE LOWERING KIT XJ/ZJ 3/4"
RE2421 ~ U-BOLT KIT M35 REAR, YJ / XJ 2
RE2700 ~ SHACKLE XJ REAR 5"
RE3700 ~ CONTROL ARM SF2 LOWER FIXED
RE3781 ~ CONTROL ARM SR2 UPPER FRONT FI
RE9900 ~ XJ CONTROL ARM DROP BRACKETS
RE9905 ~ SUPPORT BRACES FOR RE9900
RE9921 ~ SWAY BAR RELOCATION BRACKETS
 
cal said:
Redrilling the trackbar will get you by for 2-3 maybe 3.5" lift. Beyond that, the trackbar is going to be at or exceeding the maximum movement of the upper end at ride height, and not able to droop. At the 6" level, to be safe, it really is required to have some kind of heavy duty trackbar setup with an aftermarket or custom mount.
X Million,theres no "safe" way at that lift height other than a GOOD trackbar and bracket(RE,TNT,Kevins)!
 
thanks yall. im trying to save some more cash but i wanted to make sure there was nothing else i could do in the meantime. i tend to be one of those people who gets bored easily and lkes to play with my car. my girlfriends mom dubbed it "the transformer" because i tear everything apart and put it back together on a regular/daily basis lol
 
jstone8952 said:
thanks yall. im trying to save some more cash but i wanted to make sure there was nothing else i could do in the meantime. i tend to be one of those people who gets bored easily and lkes to play with my car. my girlfriends mom dubbed it "the transformer" because i tear everything apart and put it back together on a regular/daily basis lol

Yeah, me too. Now my XJ handles better (longer shackles, ZJ v8 coils) but suffers from minor driveline vibes (lifted) that I can't currently afford to fix the right way (hack&tap SYE). Speaking from experience, I'd say: exercise self-control, save more cash, do it right.
 
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