96 cherokee ball joints help

i have to replace the ball joints in my 96 xj i was wondering the best way to go about i have never fooled with the front end but im very mechanically inclined i dont know exactly how to get them out or what i need to take of to do so any help is apprecaited thanks you

ill let u know after i change my balljoints tomarrow

Rent a ball joint press from Autozone.

fizassist said:

Rent a ball joint press from Autozone.

Click to expand...

X2, I rented mine from Advance Auto and liked the press so much I bought it.

Its not a bad job but will take about 4 hours.

Pull the wheels, calipers, rotors.

Pull the diff cover and drain the gear lube

Loosen the 3 unit bearing bolts on each side and pull the axles and bearings out as one unit each side

Remove the TRE's from each knuckle

Remove the nuts from the upper and lower ball joints, I keep the lower nut on but very loose untill I get the knuckle loose.

I use 2 ballpen hammers, place one hammer on the top of the knuckle on the small flat that is there to beat on, place it ball end down. Take the other larger hammer and strike the flat side of the hammer that is against the knuckle. Keep hitting it untill it gives up. The hammer uyou are swinging needs to be a BFH! The one against the knuckle really doesn't matter.

Press out the joints, the top joint presses out from bottom-up. The lower joint presses out top-down

Good luck!

fizassist said:

Rent a ball joint press from Autozone.

Click to expand...

I'd like to add.
When you jack up the front axle put the jack stand as far outboard as possible.
Use a ball joint separator (fork looking tool) on the upper BJ. Hammer it in a little but don't go too far and bend anything.
Use the press, it will be tight. While pressing, tapping with a small hammer or warming up the knuckle a little can help. Don't over do it.
When you install the knuckle on the new BJs remember that the bottom BJ is the primary and the upper follows. Tighten the bottom nut first a little, follow with the top.
While the knuckles are out you can take them to a welder to heliarc the spots the brake pads rub in. Tell him that the knuckle is made of cast steel and to use a high nickel rod. Grind them smooth.
You can use the Spicer "Socket assy kit" part number 706944X. You can by the kit (one per side) for about $150 from the dealer or about $40 from a 4X4 shop or any shop that handles SPICER. The kit includes a split threaded ring that our 96s don't use.
Have fun!!

Falcon556, can you explain what you mean by haivng a welder heliarc the spots the brake pads rub in.....etc...?

Thanks for the part # for that ball joint set...those look like quality parts! whats with the split threaded ring...?

here's a handy howto with pics, just ignore the caster sections

http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARadjustableBallJoints/adjustableballjoints.htm

JNickel101 said:

Falcon556, can you explain what you mean by haivng a welder heliarc the spots the brake pads rub in.....etc...?

Thanks for the part # for that ball joint set...those look like quality parts! whats with the split threaded ring...?

Click to expand...

One of the jobs the knuckle does is to provide "rails" for the front disc brake pads. Every time you step on the brakes the pads move on the knuckle.
This movement causes wear on the knuckle. If you fill them up with weld, you not only fix the problem, you also prevent it from repeating. When you weld cast steel the result is a very hard metal, you cannot file it, you have to grind it smooth.
I just looked at my knuckles, I welded and grinded them a couple of years ago, they show no wear at all.

The split threaded ring is a part included in the kit that was used in early XJs.

thanks for the help you guys i got the right front passenger side done in a easy 4 hours lol, i pulled out the hub and axle all as one piece i think that saved me a lot of trouble too just in case you guys ever are in a rush the whole hub and axle will come out as one pice