8.8 swap

i did a search came up with nothing does someone have a link to info on doing one . want to change out my 35 for one in my 89 auto with 4.0. thanks in advance

this may help, http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2003/xj88/

Its a perty straight foward swap. You will need to torch or plasma the old spring perches off, as well as the sway bar mounts. You will then need to place the axle under the rig. Measure equilly from the backing plates on each side, and tach on some new SOA perches. Measure twice, make sure everything is right, set pinion angle, and burn them on. You can cut off your old shock mounts and make them work, or buy new mounts. You will also need to modify the stock 8.8 rubber brake line, or make all new lines. You may want to swap out your proportioning valve from a Grand with rear disc brakes. There is a Spicer flange adapter you will also need. I dont have the part number handy. Search around on here and google, you will find lots of info already covered.

Lots of guys are running the TnT U-Bolt Eleminator kits instead of going with the MORE conversion kit.

If I was converting one I'd probably use those. You may need the Conversion yoke for the pinion flange. Unless you picked that up to. If you did, you will need to check if it's a 1310 or 1330 Ujoint. Not 100% sure but I think I have read recently that the older drum brake models were 1330 and the Disc or 1330. If it's a 1330 and you have the flange adapter, you can run a 1310 to 1330 Converstion Ujoint pretty cheaply. Pick up a spare just in case.

would it be the same if i just did the 44 swap

xj151 said:

would it be the same if i just did the 44 swap

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Which D44 swap? If it's a XJ D44 then there'd be no need to swap the perches, just bolt it up.

If it's a Isuzu, Honda, Scout, Waggy, MJ, ect... then yes, same procedure. The difference is some of those were offered with 1310 pinion Yokes and not flanges.

if the 8.8 swap was just a straight bolt in like the 44 which would be a better choice.

I forgot to add, weld the tubes to the center section or run a truss. The tubes on them like to spin.

on the 44

xj151 said:

if the 8.8 swap was just a straight bolt in like the 44 which would be a better choice.

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It's gonna depend on you to decide what swap makes more sense. Cost is usually the biggest determiner of which to swap under your rig.

The XJ D44 usually runs a premium price. For me, local price was about $400-450 from a yard and most private parties. If you are patient and look, you can also find them for as cheap as $100. They are also not as plentiful as a 8.8 or other D44s. They are Drum brake equipped.

Isuzu D44 and Honda D44s have funky carriers, but you can find them factory geared with 4.56. These axles are 6 lug 6 on 5.5" (I think 5.5" anyway) and use a pinion flange. You can usually find a D44 1310 Yoke on the cheap though. The 6 lug is kinda a PITA to convert unless you plan on swapping in a Waggy D44 front. Disc brake equipped for the most part (mid 90s up are).

MJ D44 is a SUA, so the perches will need to be converted, but the yoke is 1310, so one less thing to wory about. These also tend to be harder to find, but not as hard to locate as a XJ D44. Drum brake equipped.

Ford Explorer 8.8 rears are pretty easy to find. The 95+ are disc brake equipped. The 8.8 is a tad narrower, but only by about 1.5". As mentione din the thread, they are not a bolt on swap in the sinse it will bolt up without a conversion. These rears can be had fairly cheap sinse there are so many of them. If I were doing a 8.8, I would locate a cheap disc equipped Explorer rear. Put it in the garage and start to throw cash at it when I could. TnT UBEs, Superior Super88 kit, a truss, and gears. That combo will make for a STRONG rear axle that is a hair WIDER (thanks to the S88 kit) than stock.

xj151 said:

on the 44

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No, the 8.8 needs to the tubes welded to the center section (pumpkin). That or trussed.

ok thanks

balloo93 said:

No, the 8.8 needs to the tubes welded to the center section (pumpkin). That or trussed.

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Wouldnt you say that this a requirment that is dependent on the application?

A local shop told me that welding the tubes can reduce flex that was designed into the axle. I dont know who to believe.

SnagglePuss said:

Wouldnt you say that this a requirment that is dependent on the application?

A local shop told me that welding the tubes can reduce flex that was designed into the axle. I dont know who to believe.

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They are full of shit. Axle tubes are not meant to flex. No good can come of tubes flexing.

balloo93 said:

They are full of shit. Axle tubes are not meant to flex. No good can come of tubes flexing.

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Thanks for not beating around the bush.

If you decide on the 8.8 take yoke off the end of Ranger driveshaft uses the same u joint as your XJ and will go right on the end of you XJ DS. Then you will be able to bolt DS to the 8.8. Grab a set of emergency brake cables off a Grand Cherokee. And take the U bolt plates from the Exploder you took axle out of. You can cut off the old 8.8 perchs and flip them to the top. And cut your old shock mounts and move them to the 8.8 and you will be set.

Stang5lgt said:

If you decide on the 8.8 take yoke off the end of Ranger driveshaft uses the same u joint as your XJ and will go right on the end of you XJ DS. Then you will be able to bolt DS to the 8.8. Grab a set of emergency brake cables off a Grand Cherokee. And take the U bolt plates from the Exploder you took axle out of. You can cut off the old 8.8 perchs and flip them to the top. And cut your old shock mounts and move them to the 8.8 and you will be set.

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get a rear flange yoke off a f150 your u joint will fit perfectly without the use of u clamps or straps,get new spring perches with more surface area, and make shock mounts (get one spring perch cut it in half , get some chevy shock studs drill a hole in each half to fit the stud and weld on where you want them)

xj151 said:

i know this has been asked before and im beating a dead horse but aside from money which axle is stronger. and if i have to cut and weld stuff should i just use a 9 inch

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Use what you want. The explorer 8.8 is popular because you can get them with disk breaks and they are close to stock width. Also they are easy to swap gears in. I like mine but wish I went full width. 9", 8.8 or dana 44 are all good and all are way better than stock 8.25 or Dana35. It never ends and it's all good so just "run what ya brung".