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Lockright VS No-Slip

TortureTested

NAXJA Forum User
Location
In my XJ
I may decide to lock up my stock axles for now till i can afford an axle swap. An inexpensive locker like the lockright may be the way to go then. I read on the powertrax no-slip and it sounds good but runs a bit more $$ then a lockright. Can anyone lay down the facts on the difference between the 2???
 
The no slip is supposed to be a stronger unit. If you look at say, the Chrysler 8.25, they offer the lock-rite only for the 27 spline, and not the stronger 29 spline unit.

Depending what axle you have, look at the Aussie locker. It seems to be better construction than either, and is cheaper.
 
I've had both and they both do what they claim. Lock your axels. The lockright clicks and pops and does not lock and unlock nearly as smooth as the no-slip. The no slip is just a way nicer locker. Would I buy or recomend a lockright? After owning three of them I would say yes but you do get what you pay for as far as noise and roughness. If you are on the street a lot then you will love the no-slip but if you primaraly run trails and want to save cash then the lock right will give you the same traction. It is worth the extra money for the no-slip if you have it. Best plan would be to spend that money on a beefier axel now and build it as money comes in.Nothing worse than doing stuff twice. Weld up your spiders in the meantime if you can limit street use to next to nothing.
 
First off... I'd pick up a 29 spline 8.25 They're easy to find and around 100.00 or so... Then if you drive it on the road a lot and don't want noise from the rear... go w/ a Powertrax No-Slip... I had it and it was completely silent on and off road..
 
I have a 29 spline 8.25 with 4.10's and the powertrax no-slip. I am about to pullit from my XJ and post it for sale. Don't know where your located, but if interested shoot me a PM.
 
I have an 8.25 29 spline and i decided to save the money for the no-slip and im glad i did. it is very smooth and the only pop i ever heard out of it was the first 10 feet when it was aligning itself. great traction.
 
If you decide to swap out axles I would look at trying to find a Dana 44 instead of a Chrysler 8.25. The aftermarket support and strength are both better.

Cody
 
I went with a No-Slip in my front 60. The Lockright's had a section of the teeth machined out so the C-clip could be inserted but the No-slip has a little window for the clip. Since I don't have to worry about c-clips in the front anyways I wanted all the teeth and went with the No-slip.

Plus the No-slip comes with "Ubertainium" or what ever cross shaft.

You might PM some of the vendors on PBB. I got my no-slip for just a little more then others wanted for just the lockright.

I probably would have gone with the Aussi but I got tired of waiting.
 
Does the no slip or the Aussie have to have a friction modifier?
 
1985xjlaredo said:
Does the no slip or the Aussie have to have a friction modifier?
No. Friction modifiers are for limited slip units. They use disks like a dirt bike clutch pack and need an additive package to help improve grip.
 
Question about the No-Slip: will it lock when you accelerate into a corner like the Aussie locker does? I have an Aussie in my 92 XJ and it's really not practical for commuting because there's nothing but traffic around here and when I'm stopped, waiting to cross traffic when that break in the line comes, if I turn and do anything but baby the accelerator then the unit locks and it's just not safe to try to make it with the rear end bucking and fighting me the whole way. I like the feel of the differential slipping as I power around the corners. I just picked up a Selec Trac 98 XJ that I plan to make my commuter, and I'd like to put in a limited slip or locker of some sort in the rear to make it perform better, but I don't want to sacrifice the ability to power through turns.

I had been considering the new ECTED Auburn Gear locker, that is an electrically activated locker that functions as a limited slip when it's not locked. I liked the limited slip feature when unlocked, as that set it apart from ARB and OX type lockers, where it's all or nothing. That's fine for an off-road rig, but this one will be focused more on on-road performace. Does anyone have any experience with this to compare it to a No-Slip, which I assume wouldn't need to be rebuilt regularly, unlike the ECTED with its clutch pack.
 
The no-slip is still a locker. Lockers suck on pavment but the no-slip less than others. You feel the no-slip about half as much if that helps. Mostly I only feel it going slow pulling away from a stop and into a turn. On the road moving you don't hardly know you have it. I drive easy thou because of lift and tire size.
 
So it seems that for this DD/light off-road type application, a limited slip will serve me best, then.

I found a recent thread on the Auburn locker here. . . seems like some people have had trouble with them, but that Auburn was pretty good about getting the issues (lack of complete lock-up) solved. I'm tempted to throw my money that way, but thought I'd look for opinions on the No-Slip first, as that seemed to be the most streetable auto-locker out there and I'd expect it to last longer before needing a rebuild.

--wavingpine
 
I've got a lock right in mine, and the 'noise' doesn't bother me. You can cut down on the noise some by using the limited slip additive in it anyway.

I had/have one that has been in a corp 9 1/4 dodge axle for over 12 years, running 40" tires and about 125 more hp than they recommend, and it has even survived a busted axle housing.

It works excellent, and still looks new. The only thing that I had to do to it is replace one of the aside thrust/spacer washers because it broke. They sent me another set even tho the thing was out of warranty by like 5 yrs.

I figured if it can hold up in that big truck, it will work just fine in my little XJ for hunting and nasty weather driving.
 
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