Finally got an XJ! Problems! I have searched!

Ok, I have searched extensively...

I just bought a 1990 XJ that was having tons of blowback issues... so I did this fix...

http://www.jeepxj.com/JeepXJ/oil%20blowby%20fix.htm

Cleaned out the valve cover etc. etc. Ever since then the thing has been running horribly. Rought Idle, hardern start etc. I haven't had a change to check all the sensors with my voltometer... (don't know how to use it)... I know it could be any number of things...

I did notice today that my new plugs were all black, so I changed them. Didn't help anything. My system is running really rich... my mpg is something like 5 mpg. Fuel is in my crankcase... tons of it.

I checked my injectors, and noticed along the fuel line rubber caps, injector 1,2, and 6 are leaking a little bit. I just got some of the 19lb ford ones off ebay. Plan on changing those soon.

Supposedly the 02 sensor was changed... had a shop look at it so I could pass emmissions... never passed, but got a waiver. Really wondering if they even did anything.

My questions are:

1. When I get my new injectors, will they come with the little rubber caps? If not, does anyone know where I can get some?

2. Where exactly are the 02 sensors located? I have heard it is on the exhaust... but isn't there two of them? (Upstream and Down?)

3. The shop said that i need a new CAT. Is there anyway to know without taking the thing off? It is running fine once you get driving... no noticable drop in power.

4. I forgot to add, that after I turn off the engine, there is a clicking sound coming from the spark plug area for a good five minutes... is this normal?

I am not afraid to work on this... it has 200,000 miles on it.. I am excited to learn about these jeeps... and cars in general. Any help I can get would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Injectors don't have rubber caps... They have o-rings at the top and bottom. The new injectors should come with new o-rings.

It sounds like you may have a vacuum leak as well, or the timing is off or something.

Start with the basics. 6 new plugs (copper NGK's or Champions, none of that fancy shiat) new plug wires, new rotor and cap. Change the fuel filter and air filter. Is the check engine light on? Your cat could be clogged, but I would do a little diagnosis first.

Replace everything on the list above, do a compression check, and check the fuel pressure, and let us know what you find. I'll bet replacing everything I listed and checking for vacuum leaks will help a lot.

yeah, it ran great before the fix. I have sprayed carb cleaner around the lines... all to no avail. Didn't notice any difference in the idle.

plugs just changed yesterday... will do wires and cap next.

I can't tell where my check engine light would be... the only light that is on is on the left side of the main module... it says emissions maint.

I will do a compression check and fuel pressure check soon... do I have to go to a mechanic to do it? I know I can buy a fuel pressure guage and check that myself... but should I just have a mechanic do it? Remember I am new to this whole wrenching thing.

thanks.

well if it ran well before the fix, then it was something that you did to screw it up.... double check all your work. Make sure there are no loose plugs or clamps. Try to describe how it runs poorly better

Is the vacuum line from the valve cover to the intake still attached intact???
Is the black plastic line from the base of the thrttle body still going to the map sensor on the firewall (will cause extreme rich mixture, black smoke,fouling of plugs and really crappy running,starting,idling)? just a few things to check

bcmaxx said:

Is the vacuum line from the valve cover to the intake still attached intact???
Is the black plastic line from the base of the thrttle body still going to the map sensor on the firewall (will cause extreme rich mixture, black smoke,fouling of plugs and really crappy running,starting,idling)? just a few things to check

Click to expand...

yes, both of those lines are securely attached.

Before this fix, it would hum right along... now it really struggles. chugs and chugs, sounds like it is going to die... but doesn't. Would knocking around the sludge in when I cleaned out the valve cover do anything?

right after I put the valve cover back on a re attched everything... I started the engine and it idled really high... so I shut it off and tried again... it idled really high then it quieted down.... to this. There was some moisture that came out of the exhaust pipe... I am trying to remember anything else...

Oh, does anyone know where i can get another grounding ribbon? The one that comes off the MAP sensor is all screwed up... frayed and stuff.

-Matt

um, did you check to make sure you put the new plugs in one by one?
it would run terrible if you crossed the plug wires it would do what youre saying...i did that when i was 17 on the first jeep, and i still do it during a hasty tuneup here and there and im 24, and 10 jeeps/scouts/4runners in

blondejoncherokee said:

um, did you check to make sure you put the new plugs in one by one?
it would run terrible if you crossed the plug wires it would do what youre saying...i did that when i was 17 on the first jeep, and i still do it during a hasty tuneup here and there and im 24, and 10 jeeps/scouts/4runners in

Click to expand...

yeah... one at a time. Did that... I gues I could check to make sure I didn't cross any wires. Thanks for reminding me.

how can I embed the pics into my post? I am a total NeWb

There's only one oxygen sensor on the downpipe for a 1990.

If I'm not mistaken, the "emissions maintenance" light doesn't necessarily mean there's a problem. I believe there's a time or something that makes it turn on so many miles or years to tell you it's about time to change the oxygen sensor or what not.

The renix gods will chime in on this rig for you..

thanks... please help me oh renix gods!

here are some pics, since I couldn't figure out how to post them in my actual post...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zeroforhire/sets/72157603399514396/

X2 on the vac. line from the TB to MAP. If you removed that line from the MAP make certain that line is connected to the hose connection and not the screw that sticks out of the bottom.
Are there male and female connectors unplugged(towards the rear of the engine), hard to tell from the pics.

the vacuum line to the rear of the valve cover is supposed to be metered to like a couple mms i think. would that large a hose be screwing with required vacuum for engine to run right?
pull it off and plug it where it has suction and try it.
i see the fix says to use the pieces i am thinking of, probably barking up the wrong tree here then.....
although it doesnt say to use the tip rather a section of the hard tubing. you did use the hard tubing right?
BTW the Flickr pic is well detailed.

You did it all wrong, the hose in the very back of the valve cover should be in the front hole, theres alot of stuff that looks screwed up. Take it to Jeep and have them hook up all your vac hoses right.

someone chime in if im wrong keep trying to run that motor with fuel in the oil youll wipe the cylinders as in no lube and score the cyl walls poss causing a locked motor happened to me with a caddy 500 ci mtr

Very possible, depends on the amount fuel mixing with the oil. I blew up a Chevy 265 once because of to much gas mixed in with the oil

Vacuum line's route like so





Also it looks like your TPS is disconnected. I could be wrong but I think your vacuum lines to the EGR valve are not hooked up correctly. Also check your TPS readings. Let me know how things are going. Also since I havent seen 5-90's name on this thread you might PM him. HE is very knowledgable on the RENIX system . Helped me on several instances. Dont hesitate to ask me anything I am more than willing to help if I can.

that vac tube job looks clean! Just got done with my own...now I'm wishing I had gone with the aluminum tube!