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Floor Pans- Anybody Try This?

H

HillbillyXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
SW Missouri
Since the metal of the floor pans are so thin and a tad difficult to weld along with fighting rust all over again, has anyone ever used an industrial grade epoxy to bond new material to the old floor pans?
Have acces to all the galvanized metal (16ga. I think) I need to pan out the whole bottom and am going to epoxy all the pieces to the pan. Should work should'nt it, after all the epoxy truck beds together with it?:helpme:
 
87manchemeister,
Thanks for the linkage mon! I'll check the local body parts store and the local industrial supply stores here and see if that stuff is available. Buddy of mine worked on Lamborginis and stuff as a body man and said they used these "adhesives" all the time.
Check it out and post results.
 
i can't say for certain, but it looks like that's what the previous owner did to my parts jeep floors, before it got hit by a lady in a car. seems to be holding up well and sturdy.
 
I used construction grade epoxy adhesive, breakstem rivets, and self-drilling screws to fix the floor in my MJ. There's a couple of spots that I'll have to throw some tack welds on but overall I'm very happy with how it turned out. Here's some pics....

What I started with...
OverallUnderseatPatch.jpg


Tools of the repair..
G2b.jpg


Fastenersused.jpg



Finished product party1:
Newfloorinstalled.jpg
 
I am working on replacing my entire floor on my XJ , driver, passenger, and rear cargo. I will post some pics real quick.

hpim0886mediumsmalllo1.jpg



hpim0887mediumsmalllt1.jpg


floor1smallaq2.jpg


I went out and bought 2 4'x8' sheets of sheet metal, at 64 dollars per piece. Designed floor templates using cardboard. I cut them out and laid it ontop of the metal and traced around it and cut the peices to fit. Then we got it in the jeep and shaped and made some relief cuts, shaped it to the contour of the tranny tunnel, drilled holes for the seat bolts and drain hole. Welded it up and its going to be getting herculined soon. If i had to go back and do it again, I would buy the next thinner metal, 18 guage. 16 is really tough and hard to bend. We had to make a 90 Degree right angle bend and we ened up having to heat the metal to 700 degrees and made a home-made break to bend it.
 
Last edited:
When repairing the floors in my XJ we cut out the rust and then applied some tar around the edges. Next we cut some sheetmetal to fit, and then screwed it down with self tapping screws (to the origional floor)

I didn't do anything to the metal on the inside, but on the outside I filled all gaps with expanding foam, and then primered and then undercoated the underside with rubberized undercoating. We did that in July, is still fantastic now in September!
 
Blaine B. said:
I remember someone using a license plate to fix a portion of their rear end on a TJ......looked pretty strange, but at least they painted it lol.
Click to expand...


HAHA! I've got a bunch of old licence plates laying around and thought about using them to patch holes if I needed to. That's funny.
 
Yea, it looked bad though. Not because they shaped it wrong or painted it bad.......just because you could still see the outline of the numbers and letters on the corner of their TJ.
 
You can actually buy the preformed sections. There are 6 choices: full driver's side, full passenger side, front or rear driver side, or front or rear passenger side.
http://www.shermanparts.com/page.php?c=shop&p=new_products&id=14

I just got the full driver's side one, the quality isn't too bad. I'll be putting it in within the next couple weeks. I fixed the passenger side by forming and welding in my own patch panels (7 in all) using 18 gage sheetmetal, but it took me between 35-45hrs doing it that way.
 
You should weld it its not that hard at all. The XJ is a uni body and it Needs the floor pan to help keep it stiff. And where it runs into the firewall needs to be strong. I did this to mine and the only thing that I can think that would have made it easier would have been to cinch down the metal using some self tapers
 
I just wire wheeled the rust, primed , silconed and screwed down sheetmetal. Did this 6 months ago when i found a/c leaking inside. Been dry since.
 
i had to replace the DS front floorpan, siliconed it down with a few rivets, and took out that G.D. felt pad under the carpet which was causing all the rust, stupid thing was soaked through... my floor is still going strong after six months with the new floor pan, no rust yet
 
Screwing and selaing is a temporary fix. The only real way of doing it is to remove thea cancerous metal and weld in new metal. I have personally tried the sheetmetal and rivet technique and also the screw,rivet,sheetmetal and fiberglass route. You will feel alot better about watercrossings and rain if you do it right.
 
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