slave cylinder compression

I just put in a new flywheel, clutch cover and disk, and pilot bearing in my 1990 XJ (4.0/AX-15/NP231/D30). I did not replace the internal slave cylinder because the FSM warns replacement should only be done if the unit is bad. I get it all bolted back up and....nada. Clutch will not disengage. Shifts smooth in all gears but won't engage. OK, I know I put the clutch disk in facing the right way, torqued all bolts to specs, rechecked the linkage on the transfer case to make sure it's in 2H. Only thing left is to bleed the hydraulic clutch line. It only takes a few ounces of fluid and no air comes out of the bleeder nipple, just straight fluid.

So that seems odd, and then I remember the last time I changed the slave cylinder it came with a notice to keep the unit compressed. It has two nylon straps that hold the bellows closed. The straps break away when the cylinder is first bled. Of course I didn't think about this when I put the bellhousing/tranny back up.

I don't know what else could be the problem. Anyone know if there's another way to prime the slave cylinder so I don't have to back the tranny out again to get at it? If I have to I'll use zip ties to compress the cylinder, but I'd rather not have to do nearly the whole job over again .

I'm reading up now on converting to an external slave cylinder, but that's a future headache. Thanks for any help.

try bleeding the slave.

you should ALWAYS replace the slave cyl w/ the clutch while you're in there. it's a huge pita after it's all buttoned up and it craps itself shortly thereafter. try bleeding it backwards w/ a reverse fluid injection set up. i had a hell of a time getting all the air out of the '87 when i did the clutch. i bought a "phoenix injector", it did the job quite well.

You know, that's what I figured too, but the service manual says no (in bold type), and of course I always believe everything I read...Before I rip the damn thing out and put a new slave cylinder in, I'll try your advice. Never heard of a phoenix injector, but I'll google it. I'm guessing you add fluid through the bleed line, not the feed line. Never tried this reverse bleeding, but it's worth a shot. This clutch line has always been straightforward to bleed...Hope the reverse way works too, or else I'm starting over.

exactly. it pushes the fluid, and any air bubbles, up through the system. on the principle that air wants to rise in a fluid. works bitchin'.

Thanks. I checked the Phoenix Systems website here:

http://www.brakebleeder.com/technical.php

Not sure if I'll drop $140 for the DIY model, though it's a great tool to have handy, even of it doesn't solve this problem.