How long to replace cam/lifters?

Looks like I should probably replace my worn cam and lifters to fix the racket they have been making for the past 6k, just wondering what an average estimated time to do this job? I'm not an overly experienced mechanic when it comes to tearing engines apart, although I have done a head gasket on my old Toyota, have done a RMS and checked bearings on my jeep and can fix most other things that come up with my jeep. I'm not scared of taking on the job, I don't have any doubt that I can do it but I'm wondering what a reasonable amount of time for this job would be. I'm just trying to gauge whether or not replacing the cam and lifters is very cost and time effective compared to getting a rebuilt engine or just something from the wrecker.
What am I looking at pricewise for a stock cam, lifters and everything else involved?

Price depends on selection and source, I shan't guess.

I won't give you a "time" estimate, since I don't know your skill - however, you'll need to remove:
Radiator (~15-20 minutes)
Harmonic Damper (~20-30 minutes)
Timing Chain Cover (~10 minutes)
Timing Chain & sprockets (~10-15 minutes)
Valve Cover (~5 minutes)
Rocker Arms (to get pushrods out) (~10 minutes)
Pushrods (~5 minutes)
Cylinder Head (~60-90 minutes - mostly in waving the damn thing around Double this time if you remove the manifolds first...)
Valve Lifters (~20-30 minutes, with a puller
Camshaft (carefully! You don't want to scar the cam bearings...) (~15 minutes or so.)

Add all those up, double the time (to allow for installation and reassembly,) and then add about an hour for any other inspection and cleaning you might see. You can likely get the job done in a week-end, and could get it done in a day - if you put in a full day. Those time figures are what I figure it would take me to do it - but I've been doing this sort of thing for a little while...

Plan on a week-end, and you should end up with time to spare.

N.B. - As I've said before (and you probably already know...) new lifters may be install on an old cam, but you can not install old lifters on a new cam! The speed with which you can wreck a new camshaft with old lifters is amazing... Also, don't be stingy with assembly lube - get happy with the stuff (it's cheaper than a new cam and lifters!) and change your oil and filter 500 miles after you get it going (to remove the leftover solid MoS2 and to get the little "wearing-in" metal bits out of the system.) Don't use a synthetic oil for that first startup - even with only a new cam and lifters. A 30-wt non-detergent oil is best, a straight 30-wt if you can't find 30ND. Follow engine run-in procedures to get the new cam and lifters "lapped" together - if you don't have one handy, let me know and I can give you a couple I've used.

While you've got the lifters bores out, clean them. Varnish does tend to build up in there - you've got a couple of options here:
1) A 10-ga bore brush (bronze,) a segment of cleaning rod, and plenty of carburettor cleaner. Chuck the rod in a drill motor, screw the brush in, and run it in an "up and down" motion. Spray with carburettor cleaner frequently.

2) Use a small cylinder hone (something that will cover then .800-1.000" range. A brake wheel cylinder hone will usually work well.) Be sure to buy plenty of extra stones tho - the varnish that has built up will quickly load up the stones and you won't be getting anywhere. A new set for each bore will not be a bad idea - using a new set for two holes (you'll need three sets) is not unreasonable. The brush is better - it doesn't load up...

acetone (nail polish remover) on a rag before honeing will reduce the amount of varnish and let you hit a couple bores without fear of loading up the stones, but I'd still only do two with each set

I agree with both comments and wanted to add something. Take your time here, swapping out on one of these quick rebuild places really is trouble. Sounds like this a daily driver and would need to be done quickly and more importantly right. 5-90 was right, weekend should do it, leave it open. Don't get carried away with "more power" components this time as it's easy to do. Take the time to clean and inspect, torque correctly. You'll be happy with the end result.

Shorty said:

acetone (nail polish remover) on a rag before honeing will reduce the amount of varnish and let you hit a couple bores without fear of loading up the stones, but I'd still only do two with each set

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True. Forgot that - but here's an important point:

Easier to get acetone at a hardware store. If you've just got to go to the drugstore for nail polish remover, read the label! Acetone is getting rarer and rarer in that stuff since the VOC regs have been kicking up.

Acetone can usually be found in your hardware store, paint section. There's also MEK (methyl ethyl ketone - also a decent degreaser. Use this stuff if they don't have acetone) and denatured alcohol (ethanol with a percentage of methanol added - don't drink it! but it makes a good "no-residue" cleaner and helps to get rid of standing water on parts...)

ok, few more questions.
So, I can replace the lifters without replacing the cam...what are the odds that my cam is still in reasonable shape? How can I test this without first removing the cam? The engine still runs well with no real loss of power, just the lifters sometimes make a racket. Replacing just the lifters would save me alot of time and money. I always filter my oil through a cloth after an oil change, and I have yet to see any metal shavings of any sort in there..same with when I have cut open an oil filter. I'm not looking for more power, just to get rid of the annoying lifter rattle I hear from time to time. If the cam is in decent enough shape as-is, any problem with just doing the lifters? Forgot to mention engine has around 105k, so we're not dealing with a high mileage engine here..

clunk said:

ok, few more questions.
So, I can replace the lifters without replacing the cam...what are the odds that my cam is still in reasonable shape? How can I test this without first removing the cam? The engine still runs well with no real loss of power, just the lifters sometimes make a racket. Replacing just the lifters would save me alot of time and money. I always filter my oil through a cloth after an oil change, and I have yet to see any metal shavings of any sort in there..same with when I have cut open an oil filter. I'm not looking for more power, just to get rid of the annoying lifter rattle I hear from time to time. If the cam is in decent enough shape as-is, any problem with just doing the lifters? Forgot to mention engine has around 105k, so we're not dealing with a high mileage engine here..

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Yes, you can. If you have a dial indicator with a magnetic base, you can also check lift fairly accurately (but you can't really check "cam lobe profile" - you can see if there's any flat spots or flat lobes, and make sure you're getting consistent lift all around, and do that without even removing the head. However, getting more information usually requires a naked camshaft on the bench.)

Putting new lifters on a used cam? OK. I've done it before, and they'll "wear in" to each other quickly enough to not cause trouble.

Putting used lifters on a new cam? Stunningly bad idea, and gets expensive fast...

5-90 said:

Yes, you can. If you have a dial indicator with a magnetic base, you can also check lift fairly accurately (but you can't really check "cam lobe profile" - you can see if there's any flat spots or flat lobes, and make sure you're getting consistent lift all around, and do that without even removing the head. However, getting more information usually requires a naked camshaft on the bench.)

Putting new lifters on a used cam? OK. I've done it before, and they'll "wear in" to each other quickly enough to not cause trouble.

Putting used lifters on a new cam? Stunningly bad idea, and gets expensive fast...

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Okay, thanks again for the info. I think I will just replace the lifters when the time comes.
What are the odds that the camshaft is in bad shape if the lifters have been "sounding off" occasionally for the past 5000 km's. Keep in mind I don't drive the XJ very hard, i don't accelerate hard and never really step into the skinny pedal. I guess I'm just wondering how long it takes for a camshaft to wear to an unnaceptable level?
Should the same "break-in" period apply when only doing the lifters? Eg, oil change after 500 miles of non detergent oil?

clunk said:

Okay, thanks again for the info. I think I will just replace the lifters when the time comes.
What are the odds that the camshaft is in bad shape if the lifters have been "sounding off" occasionally for the past 5000 km's. Keep in mind I don't drive the XJ very hard, i don't accelerate hard and never really step into the skinny pedal. I guess I'm just wondering how long it takes for a camshaft to wear to an unnaceptable level?
Should the same "break-in" period apply when only doing the lifters? Eg, oil change after 500 miles of non detergent oil?

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"Occasionally?" Probably just the lifters.

Since you're running a cam that's already "run in," you shouldn't really need to wear it in to the new lifters. If you've been running synthetic, switch back to dead dinosaurs for your first oil change, but maintain normal intervals (it's usually what I do, and I haven't had any trouble.)

Anytime you replace anything major like this, switch back to dead dinosaurs for the first change or two after you do it. Unless you're doing a full re-ring or camshaft swap, you shouldn't need to do the 500-mile change, but it won't harm anything if you do a full break-in after the job. I just don't usually find it necessary, and it hasn't caused me any trouble yet.