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Emergency radiator replacement.....tips please

TheInstaller

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Norwalk, CT
Any tips on how I should go about changing the radiator on my XJ? I am in Vermont and my radiator blew. I have a replacement being shipped from Radiators.com that should be here by 12 tomorrow. I need to do this repair on a snowy, icy driveway, so any tips to make it go faster would be appreciated.
 
A bit of a search will cover the R&R so I won't bother with that.

If you have an automatic, there is a cooler line connected with a coupler on the left side of the Jeep. It takes a special tool. just cut it off and flare the end of the pipe. Replace with a short piece of hose. will save you a number of minutes.

Also, don't bother to drain radiator, just pull the lower hose and aim it toward a bucket.
Besure to dilute any spill as that crap is toxic to animals.

The R&R takes just as long in a cozy garage as out in the elements.

Ron
 
Thanks for the quick response. It is a 5-speed so I won't have to worry about the cooler line.
 
You got the old one out yet?

Use cardboard or workout foam pads to separate you from the ground, expecially laying on it down there to remove the bottom hose clamps.

Take out the whole air cleaner assy, it's just in the way for all the tranny line work.

Drain and save the antifreeze where the local pets and wildlife can't get to it, including toddlers who love to dump it out.

Expect to have to mod the mounts slightly just in case they're off 1/2".

Be gentle removing the shrouds - ancient plastic cracks quickly in freezing weather.

Keep the cardboard under the front to find the little nuts and bolts that fall down.

I've used neoprene gloves in cold weather - they're great, good grip - plastic painting gloves or latex will stop them loading up with moisture and smelling real bad.

Use incandescent drop lights, they're warmer and work as an expedient heat source.

If you have an open rad setup, expect the overflow tube to be stuck on the neck - just cut it close, it will usually stretch enough to connect back to the new one with clean rubber that is not cracked. Lube it with new antifreeze to slip it on more easily.

Got a set of insulated overalls, a warm hat, and face protector?

Compare the two carefully, side by side, and check every feature and option to ensure they are identical. No sense working 2 hours in the cold to discover the threads on the trans lines or something is wrong.

Don't forget to check the rad hoses for sponginess and swelling, especially the lower where it hooks to the pump. Now's the time to deal with it even if you have to go get one. Lube the connections with the little packets of hose lube, they really are worth it. Nothing worse than destroying a good hose because it was so welded to a neck it had to be cut off - and you might be in there in six months again - don't ask how I know . . .
 
man..it shouldnt take you more then 20 mins to get it out.

if you dont have your fan shroud then its a who lot easyer...like the guy above says..use card board or something like that..

use a 1/4 socket to loosten up clamps.(avoids slippage from flat tips)

i beleave you will need 10 12 and 13 sockets to take the retaining sapport off the top...and a #8 torques driver...might be wrong about size...

just remember that refilling is a bitch!!!!

there are air bubbles...be prepared to sit in front of that thing for awhile refilling it..

oo you might as well change out your thermostat while your at it...:cheers:
 
The hell with the thermostat, he can wait to do that until it's warm outside or has access to a garage. Plus if it 'aint broke, don't fix it.....rittee?

Good luck, don't forget to remove the electric fan as well.

As he stated he has a 5 speed so there will be no party with the trans connections.
 
Water pump and thermostat are only a couple months old and working fine. Looks like this should be easier than I was expecting. At least I shouldn't have to leave the Jeep in Vermont and rent a car to get home for work.
 
Following steps from last summer :D
Put tool you need together, lay big blanket down to recover dropped parts so they don't get lost in the snow. Plastic bucket for parts or coffee can.
Open hood, remove electric fan, careful of the connector, it has TWO locking devices, easier to just pick it up and move it out of the way.
Unbolt fan clutch assembly, unbolt the fan shroud, lift out as a unit.
Remove the pressure cap, put where you won't loose it.
Disconnect the overflow line to the tank and tuck it out of the way.
Disconnect the upper hose.
Put drain pan under and disconnect lower hose
Remove the cross header thing, Lift radiator out, I forget if the AC condenser is attached.
Then reverse. You might want to get regular screw on hose clamps, those squeeze clamps can be a bear on the bottom hose. Use a socket and ratchet to tighten them, a hand held nut driver or screw driver does not seem to ever get them tight enough.
When refilling, dump a full gallon of pure antifreeze in, start engine, add 1 gallon of distilled water. Go from there.

From someone who has done driveway and field repairs in some of the worst conditions you can imagine.
 
When you are freezing your nads off it is a big help if you can map out your steps ahead of time and if you never did it before you can't map it out. It helps to be able to open the hood, remove what needs to removed in the correct order and not have to 'figure it out on the fly'... and actually now that I think about it I think you can unbolt the fan shroud and just put it closer to the motor, there should be enough room to slide it out without removing the fan and clutch. I just noted it that way as I was doing the water pump and the rad at the same time.
 
I've always found it is easier to attach the shroud and e-fan with zip ties. The ties also will hold the hose to the overflow bottle. Then when you need to work on something just cut the ties and everything comes out easily and replace the ties when done.
Good Luck!

I also prefer Water Wetter. You may not need it now in winter, but helps cooling during the summer.
 
Thanks for all the tips guys. I was able to get the old radiator quickly, and got the new one in just as easily. I think I spent more time making sure the coolant was topped off with no air bubbles than removing and installing combined. I also got a chance to test it out doing some snow wheeling on our friend's property.
 
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