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pics and specs on one ton swaps.

9

95ckee

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Chattanooga, TN.
ok i have a 99 xj and a set of tons, 60 & 70. the front is a low pinion out of both are out of a 90's model dodge. im going to have the chunk moved to the drivers side. how do yall think i'll be with the low pinion? when we swap the sides im going to have the knuckles turned to line up my pinion a lil better. i currently have a rubicon express 5.5" short arm lift with drop brackets on the front and plan on keeping it this way for a while till i get the money to change it up a tad. it worked good before so i figured it should with the tons also i guess. i run 34x12.50's now with trimmed fenders so do yall think i could get 37's on it? i was unsure how much more the bigger axles will set it up since the tubes and stuff are bigger. i want to try and get by with my same lift and just put the axles under it and run 37's but wanted to see pics and get everybodys opinions on it. what else do i need to look into before this project gets started? i was also thinkin either a 5;38 or the next which i think is 5;86 for my gears on a 37"-38" tire and it will be drivin daily 10-15 miles each trip. im just trying to get this in order before i get into a mess. i have the axles and thats all so far. i plan on a detriot rear and a lock right or ox locker in the front. how hard would it be to steer with a lock right and regular power steering? i had another jeep with 33's and a lock right in the front and it was easy to steer but though these big boys under there and 37"-38" tire may be a different story and i would get the ox no doubt but that is a pretty big price difference. please help and tell me what all i need to look into, give ideas and post some pics!
 
95ckee said:
ok i have a 99 xj and a set of tons, 60 & 70. the front is a low pinion out of both are out of a 90's model dodge. im going to have the chunk moved to the drivers side. how do yall think i'll be with the low pinion? when we swap the sides im going to have the knuckles turned to line up my pinion a lil better. i currently have a rubicon express 5.5" short arm lift with drop brackets on the front and plan on keeping it this way for a while till i get the money to change it up a tad. it worked good before so i figured it should with the tons also i guess. i run 34x12.50's now with trimmed fenders so do yall think i could get 37's on it? i was unsure how much more the bigger axles will set it up since the tubes and stuff are bigger. i want to try and get by with my same lift and just put the axles under it and run 37's but wanted to see pics and get everybodys opinions on it. what else do i need to look into before this project gets started? i was also thinkin either a 5;38 or the next which i think is 5;86 for my gears on a 37"-38" tire and it will be drivin daily 10-15 miles each trip. im just trying to get this in order before i get into a mess. i have the axles and thats all so far. i plan on a detriot rear and a lock right or ox locker in the front. how hard would it be to steer with a lock right and regular power steering? i had another jeep with 33's and a lock right in the front and it was easy to steer but though these big boys under there and 37"-38" tire may be a different story and i would get the ox no doubt but that is a pretty big price difference. please help and tell me what all i need to look into, give ideas and post some pics!
Click to expand...

I'm not too up on Dodge axles, does that front axle have a disconnect or does it have lockouts?

Replacing axles isn't a big deal, the suspension brackets go on the new axles just like they are on the current axles. You realize that you'll need major steering upgrades with that size tire, so plan some budget for it. A stock box with a stock pump won't be something you'll be happy with.

Changing the axles alone won't get you any more room for bigger tires, you'll still need to trim a bunch more if you run the same lift.

BTW, if you're concerned about steering effort, put the selectable locker in the rear and the auto locker in the front and run the rear open most of the time. It will turn easier than the other way around.
 
The only way a different axle would add more lift is if the coil buckets sat a lil higher due to a larger diameter tube but thats it. You're still going to have to trim like crazy.
 
if i were you i would get an axle thats high pinion and already drivers drop. it will save you alot of time, cutting and measuring and in the end you will have a better axle.

as for gears 5:38's with 37's are lower than stock gearing. i like them with 37's but i wouldnt go any deeper if its driven on the road. the engine screams on the highway above 70 mph
 
here is 37's with 4" of lift. it should be no sweat fitting them with nearly 6"

deliveryjeep-1.jpg


bumpstop correctly and you could run them with 2" of lift. both setups didnt rub.

nolift37s_0046.jpg
 
i would really like to have a high pinion 60 thats drivers drop but this one is already here so i will probally have to use it unless somebody wanted to trade me a high pinion drivers drop. does anybody know probally what a shop would charge to swap the sides on it?
 
95ckee said:
i would really like to have a high pinion 60 thats drivers drop but this one is already here so i will probally have to use it unless somebody wanted to trade me a high pinion drivers drop. does anybody know probally what a shop would charge to swap the sides on it?
Click to expand...

70 bucks per hour. = a lot more than it's worth.
 
ktm racer 419 said:
here is 37's with 4" of lift. it should be no sweat fitting them with nearly 6"


bumpstop correctly and you could run them with 2" of lift. both setups didnt rub.
Click to expand...

don't mean to be a dick but that is completely impractical.

seems like people get into the whole low center of gravity thing, which don't get me wrong is a a good thing cause we all know it doesn't take 6" to clear 33s and 8" to clear 35s etcetera etcetera.......

but having no up travel and all down travel is just plain stupid. you may as well be driving this gay ass piece

but then again you dont need travel for some sweet ass mud action! woot!

28452.jpg
 
95ckee said:
i would really like to have a high pinion 60 thats drivers drop but this one is already here so i will probally have to use it unless somebody wanted to trade me a high pinion drivers drop. does anybody know probally what a shop would charge to swap the sides on it?
Click to expand...

Im speaking from experience here.....

if i could do it all over again i would have started with an aftermarket center chunk.

in the long run the only thing i kept stock with my 79 ford D60 was the center chunk and tubes.

it would have actually been cheaper for me.

if your planning on taking time to do this build (which is the impression im getting being low budget and all) start with a new center.


but if your lookin to just get a stockish d60 under there to handle 37-38.5s a stock ford dana 60 is what you need. balljoint axles are cheaper but kingpin are more desireable for ease of high steer w/o new knuckles.

look to spend $800-$1000 on the axle alone plus either gas to pick it up or upwards of $300 on freight.

sounds like you have an early dodge axle, which are worth money to some folks. i say sell it for the price you can find a d60 center section at or use the funds to put towards a ford dana 60.


lookout though these projects can cost a ton and its the little stuff that gets you. ive got like $4k wrapped up in my front 60 and its not even fully polished yet.
 
xDUMPTRUCKx said:
don't mean to be a dick but that is completely impractical.

seems like people get into the whole low center of gravity thing, which don't get me wrong is a a good thing cause we all know it doesn't take 6" to clear 33s and 8" to clear 35s etcetera etcetera.......

but having no up travel and all down travel is just plain stupid. you may as well be driving this gay ass piece

but then again you dont need travel for some sweet ass mud action! woot!

28452.jpg
Click to expand...

why is it impractical and just plain stupid?

i would rather have better hillclimb abilities and be less prone to rollover than make sure my belly skid stays off of more rocks

oh, i dont do mud

oh, and i run 4" of lift, the 2" was like that for a couple days
 
ktm racer 419 said:
why is it impractical and just plain stupid?

i would rather have better hillclimb abilities and be less prone to rollover than make sure my belly skid stays off of more rocks
Click to expand...



well part of being less prone to a rollover involves uptravel believe it or not :doh:



your up travel needs to be proportionate to your down travel in order to have proper working suspension.


how many competion rock crawlers have no up travel................



none.



case closed.
 
xDUMPTRUCKx said:
well part of being less prone to a rollover involves uptravel believe it or not :doh:



your up travel needs to be proportionate to your down travel in order to have proper working suspension.


how many competion rock crawlers have no up travel................



none.



case closed.
Click to expand...

first of all: nice edit

second of all:
CM.Sean%20Bohnn%20rock%20buggy.jpg
oh and theres more

hell my "inferior" suspension has more uptravel than that.

so please, explain why my suspension doesnt work properly. i fail to see why having the same suspension travel yet a different ride height than most makes it not work. seems to work fine to me :confused:
 
after consulting pirate for quotes i came up with this in the 1st thread i opened...

"Depending on your suspension design, uptravel translates into lower CG when flexing. This give you a more stable rig. This of course has alot to do with the roll center of your truck etc. I usually run no less than 5.5" of uptravel on anything I build unless it has tiny shocks. But then I hardly ever work on anything with less than 14" shocks. Of course, if your shocks are sitting at massive angles, 2' of shock showing may translate into 6" of travel. So its kinda hard to have a guide line."




kinda sums it up.



another quote.


"I have run all my jeeps with equal up and down travel in the shocks. If you dont have much up travel then as soon as it runs out the body tries to lean over. I like to try and keep the body nice and level. Then if you do lift a tire the opposite side is maxed out as well keeping it balanced."



re-enforces what i edited, which i took out cause it was just stupid sounding with all of the front tires passenger tire jargon. but it did make sense and is true.
__________________
 
Ah Cmon... I've been in the minitruck scene way longer than with Jeeps. It takes just as much - if not more fabrication to get something that low as it does to get Jeeps that high. I've moved away from the trucks and now have a bug thats bagged and lays the body on the ground but If i have to say so myself thats a sweet lookin lil truck. I wish I had the money to make one of my older ones look that nice.
28452.jpg
__________________

ehh... I was trying to find one of my old pictures but I'm not having any luck...
 
lowrange2 said:
Ah Cmon... I've been in the minitruck scene way longer than with Jeeps. It takes just as much - if not more fabrication to get something that low as it does to get Jeeps that high.
Click to expand...

i thought it took more actually? notching framerails is one of the 1st steps, most dudes run rear 4 links, shoot it takes most of us quite a while to work up to a rear 4 link.

i can appreciate it i just dont like it.

now a chopped, bagged, and linked 66' coupe deville or 49' merc is something i can both appreciate and like :D
 
xDUMPTRUCKx said:
after consulting pirate for quotes i came up with this in the 1st thread i opened...

"Depending on your suspension design, uptravel translates into lower CG when flexing. This give you a more stable rig. This of course has alot to do with the roll center of your truck etc. I usually run no less than 5.5" of uptravel on anything I build unless it has tiny shocks. But then I hardly ever work on anything with less than 14" shocks. Of course, if your shocks are sitting at massive angles, 2' of shock showing may translate into 6" of travel. So its kinda hard to have a guide line."




kinda sums it up.



another quote.


"I have run all my jeeps with equal up and down travel in the shocks. If you dont have much up travel then as soon as it runs out the body tries to lean over. I like to try and keep the body nice and level. Then if you do lift a tire the opposite side is maxed out as well keeping it balanced."



re-enforces what i edited, which i took out cause it was just stupid sounding with all of the front tires passenger tire jargon. but it did make sense and is true.
__________________
Click to expand...

i just measured my coil buckets to my bumpstops. i have 5.5". what do i win?



what your saying does make sense. but while the low cog rig is bottomed out and tilting a wee bit more than the taller rig, the taller rig is just a wee bit more prone to rollover already due to simply having the weight up higher.

on top of that, low cog will prevail in simple sidehills as well as most hillclimbing situations. less weight transfer=the firmer the tires are planted on the ground.
 
do you have 5.5" of available shock to move up? also 5.5 between the tire and whatever may try and stop it?

ktm racer 419 said:
i just measured my coil buckets to my bumpstops. i have 5.5". what do i win?



what your saying does make sense. but while the low cog rig is bottomed out and tilting a wee bit more than the taller rig, the taller rig is just a wee bit more prone to rollover already due to simply having the weight up higher.

on top of that, low cog will prevail in simple sidehills as well as most hillclimbing situations. less weight transfer=the firmer the tires are planted on the ground.
Click to expand...
 
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