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PROPER TORQUE LUG NUTS

OLAF

NAXJA Forum User
Location
MEXICO
HELLO, CAN ANY ONE INDACTE THE PROPER TORQUE FOR THE LUG NUTS ON MY 1988 LAREDO? THE WHEELS ARE THE FACTORY ALUMINUM ALLOYS WITH 30 X 9.5 ALL TERRAIN TYRES. THANKYOU.
 
I usually do 90FT/LBS with anti-seize on the lugs.
 
Oh boy, start thread, open big can of worms. Really? I just tighten them till they break and than back off a 1/4 turn.

90 to 100 will get ya in the ballpark.
 
THANK YOU FREINDS, I JUST MARK THE TORQUE UNDER THE REAR SEAT WHERE THE JACK IS AND ALSO PUT A TORQUE WRENCH IN TOO.
I AM INTEH PROCESS OF CHANGING OUT THE STUDS ON THE WHEELS, VARIUOS OF THEM HAVE BEEN STRIPED BY OVERTORQUING.
SINCERLEY OLAF K.
 
Anyone know why he was yelling? His wording and spelling was a little strange even for NAXJA.
 
It should be listed on my site (link in sig) in the Tech Section - I've been accumulating FSMs and putting specs and stuff up for reference.

Reduce torque by half if using never-seez (which also allows for a smaller torque wrench under the back seat - I keep one there myself...)
 
spec torque is 85lbs. i myself run them at 90. you dont want to over torque too much cause you have a good chance of breaking the studs or even warping rotors. if you think you have warped rotors, just hit your brake and if it starts shimmering on the steering wheel. you might want to get them resurfaced if possible. Hell, just but new rotors.
 
Smittty9785 said:
spec torque is 85lbs. i myself run them at 90. you dont want to over torque too much cause you have a good chance of breaking the studs or even warping rotors. if you think you have warped rotors, just hit your brake and if it starts shimmering on the steering wheel. you might want to get them resurfaced if possible. Hell, just but new rotors.

I tend to go by the book too, pretty sure my fsm said 90, got a piece of tape wrapped around my under the rear seat 1/2" $29 torque wrench...
 
I am sorry for typing so loud, I only have forgotten to cancel the caps lock. Thank you for your advice on the lug nuts, your forum is very helpful, and please forgive my misspellings, I try hard to write english properly.
Olaf Kauffman.
 
OLAF said:
I am sorry for typing so loud, I only have forgotten to cancel the caps lock. Thank you for your advice on the lug nuts, your forum is very helpful, and please forgive my misspellings, I try hard to write english properly.
Olaf Kauffman.

you're just fine. in fact, you're doing a better job than some of the natives.
 
5-90 said:
It should be listed on my site (link in sig) in the Tech Section - I've been accumulating FSMs and putting specs and stuff up for reference.

Reduce torque by half if using never-seez (which also allows for a smaller torque wrench under the back seat - I keep one there myself...)

90lbs, or as tight as you can get them with a foot long wrench is my recomendation, but I use aluminum wheels.
Discount tire calls for 110ftlbs: http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoWheelTorque.dos

Here is a reference that specifies torque reduction per lubricant:
http://www.raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html

I understand the theory behind doing so (1), but I have never cut a torque spec because I use anti-seize or oil. I just don't put that much on, just a dab. I rairly have a loose lug nut. When have it's because I have deviated from the 90ftlb spec because I couldn't find the darn wrench and had an aluminum wheel. You will never find me torquing my wheels to 45ftlbs.

(1) Torque Specification used to stretch bolt to a specified length to apply preload. Friction of threads is figured into this figure, so if you use a thread lubricant, the ease which the bolt is turned is changed and you get more bolt stretch than you wanted per a given torque spec.

Ron
 
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I always thought reducing by half was too much. The notion of reducing torque when lubed is so you get the same bolt stretch and clamping force as when dry. I would worry that too much lube and lowered torquing can cause loose fasteners.
 
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