• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Valvoline Max Life

megabyte5689

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Kansas
When I bought my 90 XJ I started using the Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic motor oil, I wanted to know if its all right to use this on my motor, it contains additives in it that are supposed to clean the motor up. I have almost 200,000 miles on the motor, is it safe to use this brand?
 
I use Mobil1 "High Mileage" No problems. If you have any oil leaks they'll get worse, if not you may find new leaks or weeping from the usual suspects (oil filter adapter, valve cover, oil pan, crankshaft seal on timing chain cover, rear main seal, and maybe air filter) but usually means it's time to change anyway. I like the new oil my sticky lifter seems to be starting to unstick during certain stage of warm up. I used 10-30. 87 XJ
 
Ya I have some leaks, particulary a rear main seal that was replaced, after I replaced the oilpan gasket with a rubber one. I was told that there could be play in the crankshaft because of all the miles on the motor, so the autoshop told me that not all leaking would stop. I use 10w-30 also, I'm wondering if I should go back to the conventional Valvoline, or Castrol GTX.
 
Go ahead an use it then throw some lucas oil stabilizer in. In both my 68 mustang and my jeep adding it in help control leaks. I notice less oil on the driveway and in the garage
 
Should I go back to the regular oil and stay away from the synthetic. I find it to be bogus that a new rear main won't seal everything up because the crankshaft might have a little play in it because of worn bearings.
 
not sure about the bearings, you can run a blend 50/50 to get some of the extra cleaning advantages of syn. You can go more or less until you find best combo.
Do you leak out the front timing cover with the worn bearing issue as well? (behind V.D.-vibration damper)
 
if the crankshaft has some play in it, makes sense that the rear main seal won't seat properly and will keep leaking. How big of a leak are we talking about?
I replaced the rear main seal on mine and don't have any real "leaks" per say, just some weeping from here and there. It doesn't bother me at all though, since it keeps the rust at bay
 
Its not terribly bad, just a drip here or there. I just always make sure I check my oil, just for precautions. I was just wanting to know if I was running good motor oil in my car. I always do an oil change every 3,000 with a fram filter.
 
next time you change your Fram filter, cut off the top of it with a saws-all or hack saw and look at the crap on the inside. cardboard end caps.

Wix/Motorcraft/Mobil 1 filters have about twice as much paper media for trapping dirt, plus have metal end caps.....
 
ive used valvoline maxlife on all my vehicles ive ever owned. had a 96 ranger that was on 215 before i bought my Jeep. i also use the lucas oil stabilizer. ive heard bad things about fram but i used it on every oil change in my ranger. i have since moved to others for the xj
 
Nine Mile said:
Purolator and NApa Gold are good filters too.

Ditch the fram junk next time you change it.

They are the same filters..... So are the Mobil one filters. All made by Purolator.(not the Fram)
 
I use Napa Gold filters exclusively, and notice much better oil pressure than when I was using Fram (for around 1000 miles). I get less dry starts since the anti-drainback valve in the Napa Gold filters actually work. I have been on a "quick change" program, changing oil+filter ever 1000 miles or so for the past 6 months to slowly clean my engine out. When I did the RMS, I cleaned around a quart of really hard, crystalized sludge from the bottom of the oil pan, and have since run some ATF in the oil to loosen any more crud. My oil is finally staying a bit cleaner for longer, which I hope means the crud in there is finally getting cleaned out.
 
Back
Top