frankart3@hotmail said:
Can anyone point me in the right direction? I've got a 99 Cherokee and I'm going on a little adventure with it. I wanted to hook up a receptacle so I can charge a laptop or cell phone and stuff like that. So I need to hook up a converter for the receptacle, and i probably need another battery right? Well I dont know much about anything in regards to my jeep. Any diagrams or links on the best and EASIEST way to do this would be much apreciated.
PS. I dont want the batteries to explode.
-Frank:viking:
Put this in Mod Tech for you, since that's where it belongs...
As far as your original question goes - if you're not going to ask it to do too much, there's no real reason you'll need a second battery (unless you're going to run a lot of electric with the power off.)
If you have 12-volt chargers for everything, you can usually find auxiliary power points in auto houses and marine supply houses - although I do tend to prefer the marine supply version (comparable in cost, but they're made a bit better, and just about all of them come with covers or caps. And, they're usually in packaging that can be mounted to any handy surface.) Added power points can be hardwired directly to the vehicle (which is what I usually do,) or they can be had where several power points are in a block, and they are all supplied from the lighter socket. N.B. - Do
not use auxiliary power points for the cigar lighter! Even if they did work (they usually don't,) they'll end up melting down from the heat. However, the cigar lighter socket can be safely used as a power point without issues.
N.B. - the cigar lighter is usually only powered ON when the key is in the ACC or RUN position, and will not be powered in LOCK, OFF, or START. Just so you know...
If you do not have 12VDC power supplies for everything, get a small inverter. To figure what rating you'll need, simply get the power supplies for everything you plan to use. Add up the
input power (Watts) or current (Amperes) ratings -
not the output ratings (both of them should be listed.)
If they're all in Watts, you can simply add 15-25% to the total number and get an inverter at least that bit.
If figures are listed in Amperes, then "volts x amps = watts" - you'll have your answer that way. Most inverters are listed in Watts, and have two ratings: a "continuous duty" rating (the power it's rated to put out 24x7,) and a "surge" rating. The "surge" rating is usually twice the "continuous" rating, and is there for "startup surges," if you run anything with a motor. If all you're running is electronics, you won't need the surge rating (electric motors tend to need a "spike" of power when they start up, electronics do not.)
Smaller inverters (say, 1000 Watts or less) will usually have a lighter plug on the end of the supply cable - which can be inserted into the socket, or the plug can be cut off and the inverter hardwired and hard-mounted. Inverters larger than that are usually hardwired to begin with, and should
not be run off of a lighter socket.
Small inverters are commonly available - up to about 400W should be easy. I've had good luck with Xantrex inverters for light-duty electronics. You shouldn't have any trouble finding a small inverter (200-400W) that will have two outlets on the face - and the inverters with the USB socket for 5V power are also becoming common (you'd have two 110VAC sockets and the USB +5VDC socket, usually.)
So, unless you're going to get silly with electronics, there's no real need for you to do the second battery and such - you should be fine with what you have. If you find you need additional capacity, I would suggest uprating your alternator before adding a battery anyhow - theoretically, your alternator should be able to power
everything with about 10% to spare at full output, and your battery would then be held in reserve.
