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dana 44 swap

AeroZeppelin

NAXJA Forum User
Location
victoria, bc
Ok, so I just picked up a dana 44 out of an 87 to swap out the dana 35 in my 89. I'm planning on putting it in next weekend and I have a few questions. First, can i use the same driveshaft? I've searched around quite a bit and some people say you can and some say that you need a shorter one, But my jeeps sitting at around 4" of lift and i plan on lifting it another 2" once i get the last few parts i need so im probably going to need a new one anyway. Also, can anyone tell me the size of u-bolts that i need to buy for the 44? Is there anything else that I should look out for when doing this swap, its my DD so don't really want to have it off the road for too long.
thanks - pete
 
it's easy. i used the same drive shaft. biggest pain for me was the damn brake lines seizing. not sure about u-bolt size... it's been a while. just make sure to spray everything down with some pb blaster several days before. and if you have a rear sway bar take it off now. super easy.
 
I think it depends on which tranny t/c combo you have, my 90 with ax-15,np231 the length of the drive shaft on the 35 fit the 44 just fine no issues.
Granted it was a t/w driveshaft, and i already had my re 5.5 long arm on.

Sean
 
AeroZeppelin said:
Ok, so I just picked up a dana 44 out of an 87 to swap out the dana 35 in my 89. I'm planning on putting it in next weekend and I have a few questions. First, can i use the same driveshaft?

I used the '96 driveshaft without any modifications and no lifting.
When the XJ bounces, the rear axle moves back when the leaf springs compress, not just up and down.
 
If memory serves me correct the u-bolts are 2.75" When doing the swap take your time. Go throught the axle first and make sure that the gears are good and while you are at it pull the shafts and make sure that the oil seals and bearings are in good shape, I replaced mine. There is no telling how long those bearing had been in there or what they had been put threw.

Another idea is to swap in your disc brake set up while you have the axle out. You can either find the stuff for the ZJ swap or the Crown Vic swap. I did the Crown Vic due toi avalibitlity of parts.

Your driveshaft may or may not fit you will have to do the swap and find out. If you can I would get the diveshaft frm the vehicle that came with the 44. That way you have a choice. If you are going to do another lift then put the 44 in the same time that you do the lift. That way you can swap it in and measure for the SYE all at the same time.

Your e-brake cables may fit you will have to see. With 3.5" lift I had to swap my drivers side one out as it was too short.

Above all else take your time and do the swap right. If you rush then you will forget something. I have done the swap. It is not hard and if done right should not take anymore than 2 to 3 hours.


Ray
 
outlawjeep said:
Another idea is to swap in your disc brake set up while you have the axle out. You can either find the stuff for the ZJ swap or the Crown Vic swap. I did the Crown Vic due toi avalibitlity of parts.

What years Crown Vic fit a Dana 44?
 
falcon556 said:
I used the '96 driveshaft without any modifications and no lifting.
When the XJ bounces, the rear axle moves back when the leaf springs compress, not just up and down.


HAHAHA!

are you joking?? i would love for you to explain this. when the rear compresses it makes the angle of the rear DS less, therefore, pushes it in. its not because it pushes the axle back. the axle travels in pure translation, up and down. not in an arc like a linked suspension.

U bolts are 2 3/4 for a 44 and 3" for 8.25

the drive shaft should be fine, the 44 and the 30 are only about an inch different in the position of the yoke.


search for the crown disk brake stuff, its covered almost every month.
 
Just for info. The snout on the D44 is about 1 inch longer than the D35. On a lifted vehicle, that is normally not a problem. Just look at your slip yoke and make sure it can collapse at least 1 inch further.
 
rehab said:
HAHAHA!

are you joking?? i would love for you to explain this. when the rear compresses it makes the angle of the rear DS less, therefore, pushes it in. its not because it pushes the axle back. the axle travels in pure translation, up and down. not in an arc like a linked suspension.

No, he's right.

Number one, the shackle rotates back, which brings that side of the leaf back.

Number two, think of the forward section of the leaf (the 'fixed' part between axle and frame) as a control arm. It changes in angle which gives you a motion similar to a linked suspension.

If the axle moves purely vertically, why is a longer slip joint typically required on a shackle-reversed front end compared to a shackle-forward?
 
vetteboy said:
No, he's right.

Number one, the shackle rotates back, which brings that side of the leaf back.

Number two, think of the forward section of the leaf (the 'fixed' part between axle and frame) as a control arm. It changes in angle which gives you a motion similar to a linked suspension.

If the axle moves purely vertically, why is a longer slip joint typically required on a shackle-reversed front end compared to a shackle-forward?

yes but on a Cherokee with a stock shackle, the movement the rear drive shaft in and out is controlled by the angle the DS makes with the ground (they hypotenuse of a triangle is longer than the side on the base) therefore, pushes the DS in when the suspension compresses. Now i will agree that there is some movement rear word, but in stock form, its not much (maybe an inch??).
 
rehab said:
the axle travels in pure translation, up and down. not in an arc like a linked suspension.

rehab said:
Now i will agree that there is some movement rear word,

:)

In my case, going from a D35 and stock springs to a D44 and 4" lift, the driveshaft was still way too long. YMMV.
 
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