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Head gasket didn't solve overheating

R

robs

NAXJA Forum User
Yeah. I've searched and read.

Been fighting for a long time. Overheats in woods bad. Around town / interstate usually OK. Not anymore... (from around town, verifed by IR gun)..

hotthumb.jpg


1) Three radiators. Radiator Barn, CSF, Vistion all aluminum.
2) Plate and coil tranny cooler
3) High flow waterpump.
4) 3 to 4 T-stats. Have high flow now
5) 3 fan clutches
6) Water wetter
7) Additional pusher fan in front of radiator, hood vents are fan powered.
8) Header is fiberglass wrapped
9) Head gasket just done. Includes machine shop magnaflux, surfacing and valve job. Block was clean. Cylinders in good shape (still cross hatching visible @ 170k miles later).

:flame: :flame: Now what? :flame: :flame:

jee1.jpg
 
Did you check your radiator cap? Or maybe the heater has a slight leak and its not holding pressure.
 
On 3rd cap. Holds lots of pressure.

Replaced the high flow T-stat with a normal one.

Lower flow T-stat didn't help.

It's a capacity issue... I can drive around 1/2 hour or so gently... but when I start hot dogging, it never recovers unless I hit the interstate and let the converter lock up.

Much much worse after the head gasket... my guess is that it's flowing much better than before since 3 to 4 passages were partially plugged up.

So next step... I borrow my brother's IR gun again and just start systematically measuring everything both before and after overheating

Looking at one of these too to monitor flow rates:

01443sm.jpg
 
Have you considered a flow problem? I have seen vehicles overheat when they need a flush (or a backflush). I have had vehicles overheat with no apparent problems and this cured them. The backflush takes crap out of places that don't allow crap to go by. Sometimes all it talkes is a peice of gasket, or silicone.
David
 
Is it running lean? If you've done intake mods to help it breath but didn't allow it to have more fuel you may be running lean. Also check the health of your injectors and fuel system.
 
I'd try to make a simple check. If you can get yourself a multimeter with a K-type probe, you could buy some probes and insert them in some parts of the hoses; it would be interesting to see the temperature on the radiator input and the radiator output.

I think a multimeter with this temperature probe intput costs here in Mexico around 20 USD, and it has one probe included; extra probes can cost anything from a few bucks (depending on the type and quality). You should see a temperature drop on the radiator output.

Also, youy say you have many fans. Are they working when your rig overheats?

Regards
 
I upgraded my Jeep with the 3-row open radiator and the engine will overheat if long idle or working hard. Since I have yet to install a new fan switch to turn on the auxillary fan, I turn the heating control to defrost which turns on the fan, and temp returns to normal. Next time the engine overheats check to see if the fans are spinning. If you do not have the stock auxillary fan, try installing one. The pusher fan may also be partially blocking air flow.
 
just throwing this in ''i really didnt read the other posts'' i ripped my rubber sheild off teh bottom of the rad anad my truck stated runing hot and as soon as i got it back on it ran fine just my 02
 
I know you said you had a high flow tstat, but I think what was mentioned before.....high flow water pumps........are not always good. might look into going back to a stock water pump. Also, check and see if you have an exhaust leak in the engine bay that might not allow it to circulate air well enough for the clutch fan to work. Also, I'd really think about replacing the sending unit on your gauge and see if you're gauge needs to be replaced too. Is your unit open or closed?
 
you said that once it gets hot its hard to cool it off.
so basically once the thermistat opens you can't cool it off.

Run your interior heater on high, ( i know it's summer but try it )
see if that extends the length of time before it can't be cooled down.

It sounds to me like the water pump could be the culprit, If it truly is high cap. you will need a high cap radiator, fan and fan clutch.
otherwise put a stock one in or change the pully to drive it slower.

Good luck.
 
Good ideas guys...

My sites have turned to the AW4... Why?

1) Got a 3 row now

2) Overheated with stock waterpump

3) New header. New 02 probe

4) Temp verified with IR gun. It was dead nuts between the back and front of block (back of block is gage sensor (new) and front t/stat housing were exactly the same).

5) No rubber shield

6) Once it's overheated...only hope of cooling is interstate and locked converter.

It's a capacity issue... think the tranny is the culprit.
 
trany shouldn't produce much heat siting still dose it overheat siting idle? or just when your driving? check your heater hoses. if they are hoked up backward it will cause engine temps to rise.
You said it got worse after the head gasket..... it is possible the head gasket is not sealed properly. swing it buy a radiator shop they should have a carbon-monoxide tester to check for head gasket leaks into the cooling system.
 
Just a side note...I have my AW4 on the stock cooler and a 2nd aluminum cooler. It is plumbed completely separate of the 3 core radiator and mine will run really hot also.

Have a new stock waterpump. Also a new 195 degree t-stat in it.

That eliminates the tranny from my problem....and from what i see on my temp gauge for my Ram truck, the tranny runs at 125-180 depending on the day and the temp outside. No where near the 260 mark. In fact, 250 degrees in the tranny fluid is usually death to an auto tranny.

Not sure about your problem though.

With an aluminum radiator, good pump, 180 t-stat, and all the fans you have...you shouldn't be hot at all. In fact, you should be running ICE COLD.

You listed all the things you have tried...What is your current setup?? Cause you listed so many things...i am curious which radiator your on etc.
 
87manche said:
are you sure it's the right rotation water pump?
Click to expand...
and i can only assume that you checked this right?

I agree with bouncy, I have a very hard time beleiving that a tranny would do that to a healthy cooling system.

but good luck

i gave it my best guess.
 
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