Fog Light Wiring From Scratch

Hey all, I just want to confirm a few things before I carry out an install of some 55W fog lamps to my Jeep.

I do not have the switch on the dash and my Cherokee has never had aux lighting before, factory or otherwise. (Yes, I've searched for similar threads and I wanted to be exact with the requirements here, as well as for other reasons, read on). I intend to do it right, which is why I'm double-checking with all the experts here.

My lights came with the basic hook-up wire, 10 amp fuse, and a lighted switch. However, I'm going to run the fogs through my low beams only, with a Bosch 30A relay seperating the switch from the lamp current. I just wanted to confirm that the current at the headlight switch is also on a relay that drives the high and low beams, so that tapping into the low beams there does not run the headlight current through my fog lamp switch. (I have the feeling this might be the problem with the factory fog lamp switch and their bulb failures, but I'd like to do it correct as I'm starting from scratch)

Also, where's the best place to locate the relay + fuse? I was thinking of actually bringing them into the cabin in a small project box mounted up on the firewall, and possibly on the passenger side (as long as it wouldn't require tearing apart the whole dash) But, mounting under the hood on the inside fender might work as well. I'm just not sure I trust that location for protection from the weather.

I intend to take a lot of digital pictures as I carry out the install and stick the images and a circuit diagram up on Flickr with a thorough write-up here for the rest of the people (n00bs) who want to do it correctly, so all input is appreciated. This is the basic wiring diagram I'm going off of:
http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/bosch/foglites.htm
But I'll probably make my own diagram, with an indication of where to tap into the low beam on the XJ. It's all rather simple to understand, afaik, but then again, I am a EE/CS student

-xiph

EDIT: The pic in your link is much better than my diagram.
I have my driging lights wired up to myhigh beams, it was really easy to do because I makde a heavy duty harness for them so I just tapped into that to trigger the relay.

Well, everything worked fine with the install for the fog lights. Aside from the KC switch not looking OEM, the fit of the piece in the unused spot next to the headlight pull-switch looks great.

However, now that I've buttoned up the dash I realize that my blower motor has given out, or at least isn't running at all. It can't be the resistor that so many people have trouble with, because the switches don't work in any position for any setting of heat, cold, speed, etc. If it was the resistor, at least the high-speed selection should work, supposedly. However, there is a constant blow through the vents that is much lower than the original lowest speed. I noticed it when I was really trying to tune out the rest of the engine noise and feel any air moving out of the vents. I'm unsure if this blown air is just what the engine injects into the system before the blower motor, though.

Since my mods didn't require taking the entire dash apart (just the trim on around the steering wheel / radio / heater area, and the small pieces that hold the cig lighter and rear window defrost plates), I don't think I messed up any electrical connections or vacuum lines related to this system. I did check the fuse, that was my first reaction, but it's fine.

Any ideas of what's up?
Thanks in advance,
- Matt
(I realize this is more of a OEM forum question, but since it relates to this thread, I'm posting here)

Put the relay near the battery so your power runs are as short as possible. When I did put lights in my YJ, I used a three position switch so that I could have them on with the low beams, on with the high beams, or totally off.