• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Alternator XJ 1989 and XJ 1992

pszczepan

NAXJA Forum User
Location
IN
Hi !

I have XJ 1989 4.0l limited and recently my alternator stopped working.

My friend gave me alternator from XJ 1992. Before installing it I had to exchange mounting bracket nad serpentine belt.
Now mechanicly is OK, but electrical connection is different.

In my old alternator I had connector - I cut it and two wires connected to small screws on the back of 1992 alternator.
It didnot charged.
Next I checked which wire has 12VDC and I put it to the alternator screw-PIN+, and another screw-PIN I connected directly to the ground.

It is charging, but I have 18 VDC on battery right now.

Hmm - The 1992 alternator does not have built-in voltage regulator - if not - where it is in the car - in ECU???

How I should connect it to right working?

Thanks
Pawel
 
you got it. the voltage regulator is in the ecu. l've never swapped them, but as far as i know you just need to get an aftermarket voltage regulator. napa should have them.
 
Hi!

I want to use my voltage regulator from old alt.

This regulator looks like:

attachment.php



How I should connect it to my new Denso alt.

It has 3 PINS:
1 - main for battery
2,3 - they are isolated from the alt body.

thanks
for clue

Pawel
 
Probably won't work - since the connections are likely to be unreliable in a "non-standard" application.

Pretty much any aftermarket regulator should work - or even an OEM early Chrysler unit, if it's easier to find. There are instructions on my site for connecting a Prestolite marine regulator, which should be adaptable to any other reasonably simple regulator.
 
Hi !

My car uses only wires FL in internal voltage regulator.

I took out internal regulator and attached it to my new Denso alt.

Finally it looked like:

alt1ob9.gif


Terminals on regulator are:


ukadyga0.jpg


I connected them to 3 terminals in my Denso ALT


The PIN in red circle I left disconnected - internally it goes to P-terminal which is:

"P-Terminal: The Pulse/Phase terminal can provide a 12V square wave to determine alternator speed, used by some Electronic Control Modules or vehicle computers. Connects to the stator. Some ICU’s monitor this signal and adjust engine parameters accordingly. .. "

My car does not use it.

This regulator works - max voltage is 14.7 VDC :looser:


Pawel
 
pszczepan said:
Hi !

My car uses only wires FL in internal voltage regulator.

I took out internal regulator and attached it to my new Denso alt.

Finally it looked like:

Terminals on regulator are:

I connected them to 3 terminals in my Denso ALT


The PIN in red circle I left disconnected - internally it goes to P-terminal which is:

"P-Terminal: The Pulse/Phase terminal can provide a 12V square wave to determine alternator speed, used by some Electronic Control Modules or vehicle computers. Connects to the stator. Some ICU’s monitor this signal and adjust engine parameters accordingly. .. "

My car does not use it.

This regulator works - max voltage is 14.7 VDC :looser:


Pawel

Ugly. but, if it works, good job! That just doesn't look like something I'd be willing to trust come "crunch time" - but that's just me.
 
I've just noticed that it gives 14,7VDC when battery in not loaded.

When I switch light and ventilation motor the voltage is max 13.3.

Hmm - The question is? -

1. alternator does not have enough power - denso worse then Remy Delco?
2. voltage regulator is not good anyway.
3. left terminal is important and that's why it does not work correctly
 
pszczepan said:
I've just noticed that it gives 14,7VDC when battery in not loaded.

When I switch light and ventilation motor the voltage is max 13.3.

Hmm - The question is? -

1. alternator does not have enough power - denso worse then Remy Delco?
2. voltage regulator is not good anyway.
3. left terminal is important and that's why it does not work correctly

What's your battery voltage? You should see a voltage drop as you demand more current - just make sure your alternator output voltage is a few points higher than your battery voltage, and you're good. (Although I tend to prefer Delco over ND - I find Delcos easier to service, and they can also be set up as a "one-wire installation" or "self-exciting" for project cars.)

Nominal battery voltage should be 12.0-12.6VDC. Alternator output is typically 13.0-14.5VDC.
 
Back
Top