LCA clearance at axle???

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Love2Ride450

NAXJA Forum User

Location

Roseburg, Oregon

• Oct 29, 2007

• #1

So I decided to build my own LCA's, and didn't think I needed to worry about incorporating a curve like the Rusty's type. I was wrong. The diameter of my tube is 1.625. The problem is, the droop is limited by the LCA contacting the axle. The clearance is better than stock, but not good enough. I was thinking about simply clearancing the axle so the LCA could move further, and was wondering if anyone has done this. I could cut and bend my LCA's but would prefer not to. They are adjustable, so I could easily get the proper length back after bending them.

Opinions???

 

Yucca-Man

NAXJA Member # 683

Location

Castle Rock, CO

• Oct 29, 2007

• #2

Notch the coil bucket so the LCA can move a wee bit further. There's a reason the axle end of the RE LCA is offset...

Edit: For whatever reason, the above pic is upside-down... :shrug:

Jim www.yuccaman.com

 

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Love2Ride450

NAXJA Forum User

Location

Roseburg, Oregon

• Oct 29, 2007

• #3

I almost built mine that way, but didn't think it through, and so didn't think I needed to. I think I can just clearance the bracket above the LCA a little and it will be fine. I just wondered if anybody else has run into this problem.

 

cal

NAXJA Forum User

NAXJA Member

Location

Hammertown, USA

• Oct 29, 2007

• #4

People run into that problem a lot running stock lca's with like 3" lifts, and the bracket limits droop. Its pretty common to clearance it a bit.

 

Lowrange2

NAXJA Forum User

Location

Abbeville, SC

• Oct 29, 2007

• #5

rustys fixed lower arms are very close but since they have the bend in them they arent that bad. I notched where they hit.

 

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Gaius

NAXJA Forum User

Location

Beaverton, OR

• Oct 30, 2007

• #6

You can clearance the bracket a bit.

Here's what I did for my short arms.

 

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Love2Ride450

NAXJA Forum User

Location

Roseburg, Oregon

• Oct 30, 2007

• #7

That is basically what mine look like, except I used round tube, and a 1" Johnny Joint. Oh, and you were smart enough to offset the axle end bushing. If I could do it over again, I would do that too, but I think the clearancing I did will be enough, since the od of my arm is smaller.

 

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Love2Ride450

NAXJA Forum User

Location

Roseburg, Oregon

• Oct 30, 2007

• #8

BTW, for anybody thinking about building these, buy the JKS bushing cradles. They are about $12-15 each. Or you could put a JJ at both ends, but probably not needed. I used a lathe to make my cradles, and since the steel place didn't have any 2.625 od .250 wall DOM, I bought a piece of 3"od .5 wall. It made for a lot of turning and boring, esp on a HF mini lathe.

 

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tgoff

NAXJA Forum User

Location

Eureka, CA

• Oct 30, 2007

• #9

Love2Ride450 said:

BTW, for anybody thinking about building these, buy the JKS bushing cradles. They are about $12-15 each. Or you could put a JJ at both ends, but probably not needed. I used a lathe to make my cradles, and since the steel place didn't have any 2.625 od .250 wall DOM, I bought a piece of 3"od .5 wall. It made for a lot of turning and boring, esp on a HF mini lathe.

Click to expand...

I am making my own short arms soon but going with fixed. I am making them so they could be easily adjustable in the future. As for the bushing cradle for those in the future look at RE as well. I believe they are a little less than JKS at around $5.50 from various vendors. Also stock bushings are by far the cheapest at Kragen.

 

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Gaius

NAXJA Forum User

Location

Beaverton, OR

• Oct 30, 2007

• #10

Those look good. They'll be fine with the smaller tube, just cut where they hit.

And the Large RE Cold Cut End Rings are only like 8.00 each.