Guys on 36s/37s, need some help...

Okay, finally hoping to go to the next phase next year on my Jeep. I have a few questions about my build I'd just like some advice on.

1. I will be running a 64"ish wide HP d44 that will be loaded out, high-steer, chromo everything, OX locker, .500 wall tubes, etc.. My question is whats a good matching rear axle? I was thinking of building an 8.8 with the "super 88" kit and spacers, but now I am leaning towards a d60 or d70u rear axle....just clearance will suffer. (The front axle can be built 5 on 5.5 or 8 lug) What do you guys think will be bullitproof rear on 37s with still having decent clearance? (9" isn't an option)

2. I run RE 4.5" (w/ front spacer) and 33s, I plan to just run RE stuff again just taller with TNT LA kit. I am thinking 5.5" coils and my 3/4" spacer (or 7.5" coils and no spacer) and 4.5" leafs with TNT 1" taller u-bolt elims and RE shackle. How much lift are YOU running with 36/37s? I hope to push the front axle forward 3/4" - 1" also and the rear 1" back. I am trimmed with no rear lower 1/4 panels.

3. Do I need to go 5.13s or 5.38s with 37" radials? This Jeep will see every type of driving there is, stop and go, 75 mph hwy and of course trails. I will be wheeling 3 weekends out of 4 a month. I can say 4.56s and small 33s feels great for a DD, while 4.56s and 35s seemed low on grunt for me. I have no issues running 2800 rpms or so at 70mph.

4. Do I need hydro-assist with 37s and being a driver? PSC? redneck?

5. With running true high-steer does anything interfere with the steering besides needing an ontop the axle straight tracbar? swaybar maybe? need to change the pitman arm? I was thinking lift might need to be determind from this too.

JW, why isn't the 9 inch an option..on another note good luck on your transplant you'll be in my prayers.

Hey man, It's scarboy from caos! Anywho I think your best bet is a D60 rear, just because they are cheap and easy to come by around here. I also have an xj but it is only 2wd. (at the moment) I am currently working on a 4x4 swap and I might see you on some trails. I honestly think that a 60 is your best bet though.

Chris

If a 9" isnt an option, Go big the first time and never look back. 60

I'm curious as to why no 9 inch also? With 35 spline shafts, it would have no problem handling 37's. Plus you get the removable 3rd member, and better ground clearance.

for the rear unless you go high pinion and give up a little strength overall, over the low pinion, then the pinion is the lowest out there. SO thats the only draw back I really know of.

On my own rig, I went rockjock (HPD60) front and 14bolt rear. Yes it hangs down maybe 1" more then the D60 (if that really) but it was cheaper, bigger ring gear, and stock axles that are abundant and equal to the D60 35sp axles in strength.

But the D60 rear, sterling Ford, and 9" as well as the 14bolt are all good axles really. Its just to each thier own opinion, unless you have $$$ to spend on a super custom creation.

Thanks guys, yeah the low pinion just isn't what I want. I know they make guards and its gonna be rotated some, but I just want something else.

I"m constantly cursing my lack of hydro assist with 35's on 60's...also cursing my 35's for not letting my front 60 clear the rocks...I've got to back up 2 or 3 times a ride in tellico to get my pumpkin around the rocks...as for the rear...throw that cheap 30(?) spline dodge 60 in and dont look back...both wife and I have been running junk yard d60 rears from late 70's early 80's dodges for years with out problems...$125-$175 for the complete rear with 4.10's...

1. You can call me stupid if you want... but I dont see any reason 44's front and rear can't accomplish what you're after.. I mean I wheel mine hard for the most part and have only broken a rear DS, Pinion yoke, and some yoke straps not too bad... (knock on wood).. Oh and was all caused by major wheel spin, axle wrap, and a 6 foot ledge...

For 37" radials you talking what MTR's... they'll run more like a 36" tire.. 60's, 14 bolt are great for stability and strength but I just dont see it being needed here.

2. As for lift, I was running basically a 37" tall tire w/ 6" of lift.. My moto is the lower the better..

3. As for gearing.. if it's getting dd'd I go 5.13's.. but there isnt much differenct w/ 5.38.. I just think you'd be happier w/ a 4:1 or so and still retain decent RPM's, etc. on the highway.

Also.. my axle is about 1" or so back.. and it still rubs.. it's gonna rub unless you cut it more or bumpstop it.. The front is about 1" forward and I need to relocate my water bottle but just dont feel like messing w/ it.. Just bumpstop it.

4. I doubt Hydro assist will be "necessary".. but it's nice to have.

5. No input on the true hi-steer arms.. I dont believe there would be any interference though.


Also, why selectable locker... you'll have hubs? I like simple... Aussie or Lockright..

Just me 0.02

go with redneck, i got the stage 2 to kit and it kicks ass. the person i talked to was billy shes the owners mommy and she was very helpful so was matt. ups damaged my package and i had to send it back to redneck , and they sent me new ram and matt took my gear box apart just to make sure everything was ok, it all works great. very cool people

You do realize that all 60 rears (with the exception of $5k custom rears) are low pinion and the pinion would prob be comparably lower than the 9 inchs when you figured in the size of a 60 pumpkin. They also make a pretty sweet bolt on pinion guard for the 9 inch. That is what i would go with for the clearance, removable third member, awesome aftermarket and upgrade parts, etc. Should i keep going?

Our Clemson engineer makes a good point...

Thanks guys....

Yeah, I think my main issue was I was wanting to go 1-tons and decided I could blow or save the extra $2500+ on the front axle elsewhere.

So I am/was still stuck on a big rear axle cause they all cost about the same to build, besides the 8.8 coming with discs.

I plan to run IROKs or TRXus MTs, no MT/Rs for this Alabama mud, well when it eventually rains more, lol.

trailworthyxj said:

You do realize that all 60 rears (with the exception of $5k custom rears) are low pinion and the pinion would prob be comparably lower than the 9 inchs when you figured in the size of a 60 pumpkin.
Should i keep going?

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I believe your wrong, but not 100% sure. I was lookig in to the 9" and if I remember correctly, the D60 has a pumpkin that has some clearance advantage over the 9" due to more form fitting around the ring gear as well as being a higher 'low pinion' then the Ford 9" Low pinion. Not by much, but all the same lower. Not to mention a longer CL of axle to UJoint CL, meaning even worst driveshaft angle (shorter driveshaft with 9").

I am not saying its enough of a reason to exclude the 9" though.

ZacSquatch said:

Our Clemson engineer makes a good point...

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and I agree, like it matters though.

I agree with uncc civilengineer for the most part. I am currently running 36's with 8.5 and I am way to tall for the tire. Don't even come close to rubbing with trimmed fenders. I am building a d44 front to match my d44 rear and plan to go to 38 when I finish. I have been told by a few people running 36's that if you are thinking 5.13 go with 5.38 instead. Due to getting a thicker ring gear and not that much different in RPM's. Hydro isn't necessary, but I am seriously looking into it soon, because there are many situations where I have to back up in order to get the tires to move. Very frustrating and it has put me into bad situations.

ROBERTK said:

I believe your wrong, but not 100% sure. I was lookig in to the 9" and if I remember correctly, the D60 has a pumpkin that has some clearance advantage over the 9" due to more form fitting around the ring gear as well as being a higher 'low pinion' then the Ford 9" Low pinion. Not by much, but all the same lower. Not to mention a longer CL of axle to UJoint CL, meaning even worst driveshaft angle (shorter driveshaft with 9").

I am not saying its enough of a reason to exclude the 9" though.

Click to expand...

yes, the 60 has a "higher" low pinion design but the pumpkin is considerably larger than a 9 inch, so i was just saying that i wouldnt see any pinion clearance advantages between the two choices. If the pinion rides at the close to the same level (theoretically), the 9" is a lot less likely to get hung up on the rest of the case like a 60 would, but whatever, its your jeep do it how you want it. :cheers:

Thanks for the advice....anything else? besides rear axle advice

The last rumor I heard, cracker had a rear high pinion 60 with disc brakes, a detroit and 5.13's for sale...

I would seriously think about the 8.8 with Super 88 kit. I've beat the ever loving crap out of mine, and I broke my HP D44 first. I'm running alloy shafts and I've never had an issue, even with out the Super kit.

A buddy of mine is running the same set up on 35x13.50 Krawlers and also wails on his...he's never broken a 8.8 component at all. I'd say 37" Trxus (what I'm running, but 35's) weigh about as much as 35" Krawlers.

As to other issues you mention, I cannot make my HP D44 clear my TnT LA's. No matter what I try, they still keep hitting the LA's. I'm down three yokes and joints in the front shaft. Just be aware.

I'd think (with an automatic) that 5.13's would be plenty for what you're describing.

-----Matt-----