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leaf removal

B

Blaisun

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Nova Scotia
i am trying to remove the leaf springs from the xj but the bolts are rusted/siezed in the bushings. i am looking to try the BernzOmatic Propane/Oxygen Cutting Torch Kit to cut off the leafs, burn out the bushing, and heat up the metal sleeve in the bushing to remove the bolt....

anyone have any experience with these oxy/propane(MAPP) torches?

bernsomatic.jpg


i figure that if it will work for cutting, it should get the bushing sleeve hot enough to break the bolt free.....

Thoughts?

Thanks
 
I had the same problem with mine... but finally worked mine out with pursuasion rather than heat... I've got no info on the torch but I ended up prying the leaf spring mount out enough to cut the bolt on both sides of the bushing... came right out in about 5 minutes...
 
I cut a small hole in the floorboard above the front mount so that I could get some CRC freeze-off (or PB blaster) onto the thread side of the bolt. Then I heated it with a propane bottle to get it looses and broke it free.
 
i soaked up the bolts with PB and then used a breaker bar and impact gun....to shake it and it came out pretty easily

just icant get that damn shackle bolt outa the frame
 
Tonight I'm having this same problem....did some searching and apparently there is a nut inside the forward spring mount that is welded to the frame/mount. Seems that mine has broke that weld and the nut is just spinning.

So whats the best way to fix this after the old pack is out and you need to bolt up the new one? I've read about cutting an access hole inside the cab to hold a new nut, then welding it back to the frame once tight.

What about just drilling all the way through the frame and putting a long bolt through. Then make a spacer for the fuel and brake lines so they clear the new nut.

Any thoughts?

Thanks
 
You can access the inner nut through a factory hole in the uniframe enough to hit it with PB Blaster, but not enough to get a wrench on it. I soaked mine three seperate times over a 2 week period prior to attempting to bust them loose, they came out OK. The small hole in the floorboard trick is the one I've heard of that works the best. Slather the bolt threads with Never-Sieze when you re-install them to prevent repeating the process the next time you swap springs.
 
the torch works pretty well for heating but not cutting. I heated mine with a large torch and never did let go. I would just cut the bolt both sides and the floor to reinstall it with a new nut. Try the heating first and good luck
 
plasma cutter comes in handy.. i dont think my leaf springs were off since 1989.. anyway we cut the rear bolts out and had to kindly persuade the spring to frame bolt out once we were that far realized the nut that was between the spring mount bracket and the unibody was no more... used the cutter to make a hole in the bottom of the bracket to let the remnants of the old nut out along with more pirate treasure than you would think could fit in the that hole.. allow enough space to be able to fit the new nut and the head of a wrench into the hole, hopefully that feature will make future adjustments or upgrades easier.. also when you put the bolt through the outside hole in the bracket through the spring and into the frame( where u may have to use the cutout and new nut) there is a hole in the frame to allow space for the bolt to pass through when you tighten it down.. good luck
 
Is the nut for the front leaf spring actually welded to the frame, or to the inside of the "box" thats welded onto the side of the frame? i know either way its hidden by that "box", i'm just trying to decide where to make my cut so i can access it easier. closer to the frame or closer to where the eye of the leaf spring sits. i'm not sure if that makes any sense but i can see it clearly in my head lol!
 
It is actually welded to the box/bracket that is attached to the frame. The nut is made out of brass, copper, or something with a steel core. The core was rusted to the bolt and when I tryed to use a wrench on it, it just rounded off because it was so soft.

I just ended up cutting the spring mount bolt and getting a new one in grade 8 with a nylock nut. I didn't have much luck welding it back to the bracket, so I just tightened it up and left it be. Figure this jeep body is going in the junkyard in a couple more years of wheelin so I probably won't ever have to remove the springs again. If I do, I'll just cut out my patch to access it again.
 
well im not quite sure what i'm looking at there. i know its the rear floor and the hole is going down but i cant find the nut. i appreciate the pics though. my plan is to use either a cutting wheel or a plasma cutter and cut through so i can cut off the end of the bolt right at the nut with a sawzal so i can take it out easier. im not sure if you read my other post, but the threads are rusted way too bad for them to ever be able to come through the nut, but it will turn about 1/4 turn so the threads in the nut are free, its just getting caught up on the rusted threads on the end of the bolt, so im hoping by eliminating those the bolt will come right out. Am i heading in the wrong direction?
 
What I did to locate the nut's location on the inside is measure from the stampings in the floorpan underneath then measure the same stampings on the inside to transfer the measurements. Then I just drilled a 3/8" test hole to make sure I wasn't inside the frame and actually accessing the pocket where the nut lives. Then I started in with the sawsall to make my hole. I found that it's also easier to cut the bolt from the outside btw the spring eye and the bracket with a sawsall.
 
if you cut then head off of the bolt how did you end up removing it from the nut, drill and tap? i havent broken or cut anything yet, just realized that even after a whole can of PB blaster and deep creep this bolt isnt going anywhere.
 
I didn't cut the head off the bolt. I stuck the sawsall btw the the inside of the spring eye and the bracket that the nut on the inside is welded to (if that made any sense) and cut the bolt there. Then the bolt slid out, the spring dropped, and I pulled the nut out of the hole I cut in the floor.
 
ha alright i get it now. sorry for all of the newb questions. you helped me out big time, i really appreciate it. i'm going to see what i can get accomplished over the weekend.
 
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