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List of performance mods

C

CustomCrawler

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Kennewick WA
I have only done the Open cooling conversion on my 88 and it has truely been worth it. I had problems burping the system for a few years. After boiling my coolant on a moderate run this year I decided it was the only way to go. I am glad that I spent the extra and just went with all the same stuff as my 95. I have not had a single over heating yet and I have found that I don't have to run my electric fan on all the time either.
 
CustomCrawler said:
1.MAP adjuster
http://www.turbocity.com/product_info.php?products_id=415
2. Firepower ignition kit
http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=12169
3.TB spacer
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=AID%2D310%2D510&N=700+115&autoview=sku
4.Bored throttle body
5.2.5" catback and gutted cat

Is this conversion worth it:
open system conversion http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/JTopenSystemSwitch/OpenSystemSwitch.htm
Click to expand...

MAP adjuster - more useful for strokers and such - or fine-tuning your fuel system (if you suspect a problem.) Should be accompanied by accurate measurement of fuel/air ratio (get a wideband oxygen sensor and monitor for htis.)

Firepower ignition kit - the OEM ignition setup is good for what you're running now - you really only need more power for forced induction, increased compression, or something similar.

Throttle Body Spacer - I've never been sure what this is meant to accomplish. Further Deponent Sayeth Not.

Bored Throttle Body - the OEM throttle body can support a mild stroker, much less the stock engine. You'll probably note a quicker response at the throttle.

2.5" Catback isn't doing anything about the header or the downpipe - if you see the crimp in your downpipe, you should do something about that first (only if you're lifted. If not, you'll end up with that crimp again - it is there for a reason, after all...) Gutting your cat will get you less power increase than either a high-flow cat (like I use - for a Big Block Chevvy/Ford engine) or just replacing the catalytic converter with a stretch of straight pipe. Elementary fluid dynamics - anytime you change the section of a flow significantly, you cause turbulence. Gutting your cat does this twice - once going up, and again going down. Performance cats are designed to minimise these effects.

Open System Conversion? I've got five RENIX rigs - one I bought converted. It runs hotter than the other four have. If you're worried about "burping" the system, I've covered that (drilling the thermostat is all it takes.) If the closed system is so bad, why are OEMs gravitating toward it? Your radiator, however, probably does require replacing - I've discussed that at length as well.

I'm not trying to dissuade you from working on your rig - far from it! - just trying to help you spend money where it can do you some (more) good.
 
I am with 5-90 on the closed system. I like it and it works great. I think the main concern/problem with folks and the closed system is simple. Its not what they are used to seeing. Most people like to open the hood and see a rad cap. Gives them a warm fuzzy.
 
1.MAP adjuster
http://www.turbocity.com/product_inf...roducts_id=415
2. Firepower ignition kit
http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=12169
3.TB spacer
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=AID-310-510&N =700+115&autoview=sku
4.Bored throttle body
5.2.5" catback and gutted cat
Click to expand...

1. Not really needed.
2. I'd go with a MSD coil and a good set of wires and be done with it.
3. I bought one off Ebay to prove to myself if they did or didn't work. I felt no difference and that was with a bored TB to match. Waste of $$ in my opinion.
4. Have a shop bore the lower out to 60mm to match the rest of the TB. A shop should only charge abouyt $30-40 to do this.
5. A 2.25" system is fine and will bolt right up. As for the gutted cat, why not just get a high flow replacement for cheap and run that.

IMO from what I have read/heard about, the closed system requires a little more work and the pressure bottles are prone to fail. I reqlize these are older vehicles and the bottle seal may wear out, but that's not an issue with a open system.
 
I know that my radiator did have a few cores blocked since the PO ran into a tree and fixed the damage the fan had done with a bit of JB Weld...ok about the size of the base of a ceramic coffee mug.
 
I'd not consider a pressure bottle "prone to failure" - even a plastic one - but it is a maintenance item. I probably change mine more than absolutely necessary - cap and bottle every five years, with a spare on the shelf.

I find the Crown parts to be most reliable.

It's also possible to put a metal tank in place, using a standard radiator cap, if you choose (I've heard good reports with a Moroso catch tank - but I've not tried it myself. Yet.)

If you drill the thermostat as I've described so often, you'll get a system that purges itself of air during normal operation. Bonus!

The OEM radiators aren't that good - replace with Modine or CSF when necessary, and flush every other year.

Apart from that, there's really not a thing wrong with the closed system - and it wants the same maintenance that the open system does.
 
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