front axle on a budget

Hey guys, Im looking to build some axles over the winter, and still have some questions. I have read all of the sticky posts on axle selection, but am really not looking to spend too much on this, I would like to do it all myself.

First off, identifying axles, Id like to find a 44/9 inch combo out of an older ford, Late 70's? i think. what are some things I could look for to identify them and make sure they are the right ones?

Also, I would like to regear them my self, to save some money, what else would need to be upgraded? I have heard that using chevy d44 knuckles is stronger, but is it really needed?

Another thing, I would like to keep my rubicon radius arm setup for the front, so what about the ford arms? could I just take them off, and weld up some new mounts for the RE arms?

Basically I would like an idea on what the best way to build a cheaper set of axles.

What would you guys do?

Be careful on late 70's front D44's. They are about 5-inches wider and the radius arms have castings on the tubes. The tubes themselves are not solid with the castings abound them, but rather have small tubes pressed between the castings. For this reason, it is waaay expensive to have them re-tubed and you can't just cut them down to size and re-weld them. How do I know, $250 in the wind for a '79 Bronco D44.

Now with that being said, if you don't mind the extra width and want to use the stock (Ford) radius arms, you can find the D44/9-inch combos for cheap. In Eric's Custom XJ book (I forget the title, which is odd as I've read it about a hundred times), there is an MJ that did this. That would be really cheap and shouldn't be that hard, as you should only have to make brackets to go on a strong cross-member.

I don't know your experience with setting up gears, but I had never done it before and it really wasn't that hard. Just take your time and lots of measurements (backlash, etc.) throughout the process. I bought a cheap dial indicator, magnetic base and calipers for about $40 from Grizzley Tools. Finding a cheap inch-pound torque wrench is another story. The "feel it before and after" method might be cheaper than spending a few hundred on this tool. Maybe not.

In the end, I bought a '97 Explorer 8.8 with disk brakes for $100 and regeared and re-axled it and the HP D-30. I'm running 35's and so far, no problems (knock on wood!).

Good luck!

I suggest keeping the D30 up front and upgrading it. In the long run it may be cheaper. Get some alloy front axle shafts and regear with a lunchbox locker. This will give you a front that can take a bunch of abuse without costing too much. Also it's far less work to do. In the rear, I suggest the D44 from an early XJ with upgraded axles and gears/ lunchbox locker.

i like the waggy 44 front, and ford 8.8 rear combo... tnt customs makes and install kit for the 44 and the 8.8 all you really have to do is a SOA (spring over axle) and use a flange at the drive shaft. regear and new ball joints and u joints in the 44 and have a good day! my .02

Here's some of the links I used when I built my HP Dana44;
http://www.trailhed.com/d44.html
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html

I also built my own truss. I made a template out of cardboard and then transferred it to a piece of 2"x5"x3/16" wall rectangular tubing. a little cutting, a little bending, a little welding and I saved about $300.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=466573

thats a good one

Just occured to me, why all the hype about the ford axles, whats wrong with the chevy 3/4 ton, or half ton axles?

CV95XJ said:

Just occured to me, why all the hype about the ford axles, whats wrong with the chevy 3/4 ton, or half ton axles?

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The diff is on the wrong side of the axle.

polar_jeep_04 said:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=466573

thats a good one

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If cheap is the name of the game then I don't know, that build ended up running me like $2800 with chromos and superjoints, I did use all new parts, but I don't see why you wouldn't. Either way the waggy 44 is a solid candidate, and in the yards I've been too they're much more prevalent than the ford 44s.

cool thanks, is their any way someone could post a pic, or describe what the waggy 44 looks like, i think i found one in a yard, just not sure, looks a little smallish.

shmoken875 said:

If cheap is the name of the game then I don't know, that build ended up running me like $2800 with chromos and superjoints, I did use all new parts, but I don't see why you wouldn't. Either way the waggy 44 is a solid candidate, and in the yards I've been too they're much more prevalent than the ford 44s.

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If you dont do chromos and good joints, whats the point of upgrading to a 44?

I guess over time you can add better steering, shafts and joints, but why not do it right the first time and not spend money twice?

Starboard M said:

If you dont do chromos and good joints, whats the point of upgrading to a 44?

I guess over time you can add better steering, shafts and joints, but why not do it right the first time and not spend money twice?

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not sure I understand what you're saying? If you mean me, the tie-rod was free and I got the stock shafts for $30 verse $750+ that I didn't have at the time, sorry not trying to hijack

shmoken875 said:

not sure I understand what you're saying? If you mean me, the tie-rod was free and I got the stock shafts for $30 verse $750+ that I didn't have at the time, sorry not trying to hijack

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There are only a couple reasons why a hp44 is stronger then a hp30.
Stronger ring and pinion
Shafts(arguable)
True hi steer.

So it sounds like you will have stock shafts with stock joints with OTK steering.

Only thing that will be stronger then a semi polished 30 is the ring and pinion.


Im not trying to contest what your saying, but Im trying to explain that it might be better to keep the 30 for awhile longer.

wow, I didn't know that the shafts were comparable in strength.
the main reason that I am looking for an upgrade is I go through unit bearings every year, and I have broke the ring and pinion, the shafts have never broke on me though, I am however running shafts out of a grand with the two u joints per side. I don't know, I want to run 35's or possibly bigger, but make it pretty indestructable.

How about 60's? The axles themselves wont be too expensive at all, (I have a friend that works at a junkyard, that can get stuff cheap or free) Its mainly the cost of making them work.

I don't know, lets change the topic, instead of 44's, what would I have to do for 60's????????????