? about installing T-case drop

Time to have the t-case drop done to eliminate the remaining vibes and binding. I have already put in shims to get the correct pinion angle. I realize this is definitely something I can do on my own. Unfortunately, I don't have the proper tools to do it. I have had my XJ in the shop a couple of times this past month for various things and have asked for them to go ahead and do it. Each time they've said they can't do it because they are afraid the driveshaft is going to fallout or it's going to mess with the transmission. Also, they've said they don't know how to put it on because they don't understand how the spacers are going to work since it has 2 studs. So can anyone explain the install in Layman's terms to me so that I can pass it along to them? I had one put on my 88' by my Uncle who has been a mechanic for 30+ years, but we had a falling out so I can't get him to do it. I'm afraid I'm going to lose my driveshaft on the interstate if I don't get this done soon...

Okay, you have to remove the studs. This is a pain and you'll likely have at least one that won't come out. Fire up the blow torch and get it almost glowing. On my '98, I ended up using a pipe wrench on a heated stud - it was the only way to get it to come out.

If the threads aren't already shot by trying a vise grip (don't ask), you can try putting a second nut on the stud and tighten against the original. Then get your wrench on the top nut - it'll tighten against the second one and lock up, thereby turning the stud.

Make sure you put a jack under the crossmember so the tranny and t-case don't drop too far. Loosen both studs and both bolts, then remove from one side. Let the jack down a bit until the crossmember clears. If you're lucky and the stud comes out easily, just insert the spacer and bolt it up (use thread lock) - DON'T TIGHTEN yet. If the stud sticks, see above.

Move on to the other side and repeat. Once both sides have the spacer and are bolted up, tighten all four bolts. Good to go.

Good luck

i put a tcase drop on my 01 a few weeks ago. the only hard part about it was the studs. they were a pain. you can try to twist them out by locking two nuts together....i got it turning that way but it still wouldnt come out. i ended up using a big sledge and knocking them up into the frame and breaking the weld. i then had to cut a small hole in the floor to drop the new bolt in. be sure to prime and paint those holes though or it'll rust...if you have to go that route.

edit: mattxj beat me to it on the 2 nuts...

haha i found out the hard way with the vise grip as well. not cool.

tack weld the nuts onto the studs and back them out like they were bolts, it works perfect. your tcase drop kit should have come with new bolts. if you dont feel comfortable welding the nuts onto the studs put a second nut on there and turn the one thats on there first, it will bind up on the second nut and turn the stud out... but its easier to just weld the nut. if they snap off you just need to use an easy-out. they also make a tool just for removing studs without damaging them, but its like $45, not really worth it for one time use.

i learned all this by using the search button the first time i put a tcase drop on. everything you need to know about your jeep is in there somewhere, just look for it

good luck.

i personally vote pounding the studs out and cutting in the floor. the holes only need to be small and takes a very short time to cut. and pounding the studs out literally takes 5 seconds.

Spray the studs up REALLLLLLLL good with PB BLASTER where they go into the 'frame,' and let it sit for a few. Then hit it again with PB, and then get a pipe wrench on it. Comes right out.

Once again - a simple, cheap pipe wrench does wonders (of course I used PB and then fired it up!)

forget the welding and drilling

I'd say go with the 2 nuts with pb. It worked for me.

I tried the PB Blaster and the jam nut (two nuts on the stud) and couldn't get it to work....didn't think about the pipe wrench. When I took the XJ in for tires I had the them take a crack at it. Took them 5 minutes and no extra charge, just goes to show having the right tools makes a difference

how did they end up doing it??

tyspier said:

Spray the studs up REALLLLLLLL good with PB BLASTER where they go into the 'frame,' and let it sit for a few. Then hit it again with PB, and then get a pipe wrench on it. Comes right out.

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2nd that, pipe wrenchs are the best tool in the box. Thats exactly how i got mine out after the vise grips didnt work.