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Vibration when warm - one drum HOT, ready to take to shop

G

gba88

NAXJA Forum User
Location
PA
I've just about had it with this problem..........I have a post from last week about this, but wanted to make a final plea before going to a shop.

Once driven about a mile or so, I start getting vibes (not while accelerating -only after I accelerate, then let off the gas). This happens anywhere from 30-50 mph and maybe even at lower speeds.

Then, when I come to a stop and check, the passenger side drum is about 3 times hotter and smells like burning brake shoes.

Do I need to adjust the ebrake cable underneath? (it's completely rusted/seized), could this be a warped drum or?? I'm at my wits end after chasing this for a week.
 
lowrange2 said:
are the adjusters too tight?
Click to expand...

at this point, i don't even know how to tell. Originally, i tried the old way to adjust them... backing up several times (going like 10-20mph) then putting on the brakes.

I then took off the drums and tightened them down the whole way and tried a mtehod i saw online about pulling the ebrake several times instead of the backing up deal.

typing that makes me think though...my dad was helping and the way we were starting with the adjusters was by screwing them together as tight as they would go then putting the drums back on...is that wrong? Thanks for the reply
 
Jack it up before you drive it and spin the wheel in question and listen for shoe drag on the drum, then drive it and repeat the process. If now its still lightly rubbing, and I mean just barely able to hear a woosh as the drum might touch a shoe at some point it would sound like the brakes are OK. If not there abviously hanging up. I think you said you replaced the springs etc and checked for groves in the backing plates where the shoes ride and might be hanging up. If everything is correct as far as assembly of parts etc, and the system is bled so the air/fluid mix isnt expanding from heat and dragging the brakes,as well as the E brake cable being free to retract and not stretched out due to a lift then I couldent say. And yes, by now with the heat issues you mention Id seriously have the drum on that side checked out good for heat cracks as well as the shoes.
 
lowrange2 said:
i usually adjust them out and center the shoes so that the drum slides on snuggly...
Click to expand...

and then just put them together and not do the backing up thing?
 
dyna said:
Jack it up before you drive it and spin the wheel in question and listen for shoe drag on the drum, then drive it and repeat the process. If now its still lightly rubbing, and I mean just barely able to hear a woosh as the drum might touch a shoe at some point it would sound like the brakes are OK. If not there abviously hanging up. I think you said you replaced the springs etc and checked for groves in the backing plates where the shoes ride and might be hanging up. If everything is correct as far as assembly of parts etc, and the system is bled so the air/fluid mix isnt expanding from heat and dragging the brakes,as well as the E brake cable being free to retract and not stretched out due to a lift then I couldent say. And yes, by now with the heat issues you mention Id seriously have the drum on that side checked out good for heat cracks as well as the shoes.
Click to expand...

Thanks! no lift here, but here's something....we bled the brakes really well, but only bled the rear ones since we only replaced the line going to the rear then the 2 rear wheel lines. We also bled with DOT 4 when DOT 3 was in the system. There doesn't "seem" to be air in the lines, but I guess if there was I wouldn't know anyway?

All this crap happened after doing the rear shoes, springs and brake lines mentioned so I'm thinking it *has* to all be connected. Would mixing the DOT 3 & 4 do anything or would I need to bleed all 4 wheels??
 
I think all 3 and 4 is comaptible, just not 5 which is silicone. It sure sounds like something didnt go back together correctly. If there was air you probably would feel a less than normal brake action as the rears wouldent do much of anything. The new springs installed should be fairly taut when hooked at either shoe to retract them, the E brake cable free to move about. Have you checked the E brake cable from where its a single into duals under the floor tunnel area to make sure it didnt get cocked and is pulling one side or hung up? How much drag are you getting when its cold and say before you drive it and the issue starts in? It should be very little if any really, keep in mind the more drag you start with the hotter tha shoes and drum will get expanding everything and really increasing the problem. Ive over adjusted myself a few times and been sorry. Save the drag from gear oil etc You should or would be able to spin the wheel freely and it not have it stop really from brake drag.
 
dyna said:
I think all 3 and 4 is comaptible, just not 5 which is silicone. It sure sounds like something didnt go back together correctly. If there was air you probably would feel a less than normal brake action as the rears wouldent do much of anything. The new springs installed should be fairly taut when hooked at either shoe to retract them, the E brake cable free to move about. Have you checked the E brake cable from where its a single into duals under the floor tunnel area to make sure it didnt get cocked and is pulling one side or hung up? How much drag are you getting when its cold and say before you drive it and the issue starts in? It should be very little if any really, keep in mind the more drag you start with the hotter tha shoes and drum will get expanding everything and really increasing the problem. Ive over adjusted myself a few times and been sorry. Save the drag from gear oil etc You should or would be able to spin the wheel freely and it not have it stop really from brake drag.
Click to expand...

The nut on the ebrake adjustment cable is frozen on with rust, and it DOES appear that the passenger rear side is pulled back more. I was thinking of trying to get the nut off with a torch or something, but didn't want to end up ruining that bolt since it looks to definitely be a dealer part. I guess I need to get it to my dad's garage to investigate further since I can't really work on it where I live (gravel driveway at apt.). Thanks for the ideas!
 
Even if its off a tad check and see if you can easily pull down on the cables to take up some slack like your pulling the E brake on and also if it releases freely when let go. Also I think where they go into the backing plate theres a clip of sorts that might have got bent up if you hung the cables on some weeds or branches while wheeling.
 
Update: with the adjuster completely turned tight (pads cannot go in anymore), the drum drags. Could the ebrake cable still be holding it up somehow? My dad says no, but I cannot see why there is still so much drag with the adjuster completely tightened in.

He says that it's because of the new pads, but it just doesn't seem right to me. Need help asap if anyone can post. Thanks!
 
Are the shoes set all the way in the wheel cylinder or are the pistons pushed out any? disconnect the parkbrake cable and see if ya still got the same problem... Drive to here and ill fix it for ya... Theres a chick named allison that lives in PA somewhere that I met on a cruise... Bring her down with you too!
 
lowrange2 said:
Are the shoes set all the way in the wheel cylinder or are the pistons pushed out any? disconnect the parkbrake cable and see if ya still got the same problem... Drive to here and ill fix it for ya... Theres a chick named allison that lives in PA somewhere that I met on a cruise... Bring her down with you too!
Click to expand...

I don't know anyone named Allison :D ..............well, we tightened the adjuster the whole way in and i test drove it. both drums are about the same temp. here's the thing though....I didn't do any of the backing up and hitting the brake or the thing where you lift the e-brake several times. I just put it back together with the adjuster as tight in as it would go and left it alone. I guess I'll see what happens over the next few drives!

It's AMAZING how when I'm at about 45 or 50 that *now* it drives as smooth as glass..........but when the problem shows up it's like night and day. I'm at least satisfied that it is DEFINITELY something with the brakes. It's always the vibes, then gettting out and having that drum be as hot as hell and smelling like it's burning. Not sure if it's only that rear pass. wheel, but it's definitely being caused by the brakes.

I'll bump the thread if there are any further developments. Thanks for all the feedback!
 
I had a similar situation with one of my drum/wheels heating up. I checked the fluid reservoir and noticed that the brake fluid was pretty milky. I ended changing out a the rear wheel cylinders when I did the brakes and the problem was solved.
 
wild_thing said:
I had a similar situation with one of my drum/wheels heating up. I checked the fluid reservoir and noticed that the brake fluid was pretty milky. I ended changing out a the rear wheel cylinders when I did the brakes and the problem was solved.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info.....unfortunately, I changed the wheel cylinders too when I originally did everything and that wasn't it.

I was actually out driving it and so far so good! I'm going to just take it REAL EASY on the brakes and see what happens.
 
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