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Radiator, Waterpump, Serpentine Belt, Tensioner suggestions please

S

sbilbrey

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Marysville, Ohio
I have a 98 Cherokee, 4.0, ATX, 4WD, completely stock, ~140K miles. After replacing the hoses, thermo, and coolant, it still overheated, especially with the AC on. So I pulled the rad, the fins basically crumble to the touch.

So, I need a new rad, any suggestions? I use an ebay cheapo in my Neon and haven't had any issues, but I don't run AC in it. A guy at the dealer said there were two varieties of factory rads, one was considered heavy duty. Anyone have any experience and/or opinion about that for the extra money?

Also, I am planning on replacing the serpentine belt while I am in this far, should I replace the tensioner too? Any particular brand anyone can recommend over another?

Finally, since I am this deep I am thinking of changing the waterpump. Does anyone have any opinions about that? Such as, "Jeep waterpumps never go bad, don't bother replacing" or "Make sure you get this brand".

Thanks in advance,
Sammer
 
My 98 had the upgraded factory radiator which was included with the Up Country package. When it was high in mileage I replaced it with a Modine two row that has performed just as well - no better or worse - which is fine with me.
I replaced my tensioner as well as most parts with Mopar OEM to save headaches. I've bought parts at a few different Chrysler sites online to save money over dealer cost.
 
I just put a 2 row heavy duty CSF in my 99' and I am very happy with it so far. It been pretty hot here in Texas lately so I have definately tested it out well. I paid under $100 for it and it is a full metal design instead of the plastic tanks on the OE radiator. I wouldnt worry about the water pump personally unless there is evidence of it leaking. I would just do a good cooling system flush, replace the radiator, cap (16lb), hoses and thermostat and see how it does. I try to use mainly Mopar parts as I seem to have less problems with the OE parts failing. I would rather pay the couple extra bucks on a known good quality part than be stuck on the side of the road with a cheapie fron the local parts store.
 
www.radiatorbarn.com

Racer-X, where did you get your CSF from?

Is it overheating just at idle, or traveling down the road, or both?

The waterpump might not be leaking, but a friend of mine was having overheating problems at idle...pulled his water pump and the inside was damn near disintegrated....wasnt moving any fluid...
 
I have never heard anything wrong with the OEM waterpump-I have heard good reviews on the Hesco pump (plus their higher flow thermostat housing). Dirk at DPGOFFROAD sells CSF radiators-I have purchased alot of items from him and he has excellent customer service. When I change my coolant I usually add a water wetter (Royal Purple). x2 on changing the radiator cap.
 
I ended up getting mine through my shop at cost so I dont know if you will find much of a better deal. I got it from WorldPac but I do not think they sell directly to the general public. I figure there has to be someone online that will sell it for close to that price. I guess I got a pretty good deal
 
3 row CSF from radiatorbarn.com, all metal design. $170 shipped. New fan clutch if its old and/or too loose. If your belt looks fine and is tensioned correctly, there is no need to replace it.

This topic has been beaten beyond death... do a search for overheating, or radiator, etc and you will find enough to keep you reading into next year.
 
On the other hand, I WOULD change the belt regardless. You're gonna have everything apart anyway. And keep the old one as a spare. Stash it under the rear seat.
 
Just did this on my 99, three weeks ago.
New rad. CFM from Dirk, new water pump - Hesco, new thermastat (195) Hesco/Roberts, OEM gaskets, OEM ideler wheel, OEM Fan Clutch, OEM hoses, new belt, and OEM rad cap.

I found guides for the take-a-part and installation by searching the NAXJA or Gojeep's web site @ http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/. Having pictures and guides really helped.

50% antifreeze w/ distilled water; also used water-wetter additive. The temps. never get above 210 and usually below once the thermastat opens.

It was not particularly difficult, and I did over-kill with the Hesco, but I wanted performance. I also installed new motor mounts will I had all the front of the engine-bay cleared. You will need a special tool for the Transmission connections if you have an automatic (Sears).
 
I found pliers to be sufficient for the trans connections on the radiator. Just depress the two tabs and wiggle it off.

I stay below 210 except when idling in hot weather. I think the efan turns on too late, or my new hayden fan clutch is stupid. As soon as the efan turns on it drops the temp down to below 210 rather quickly.
 
Blaine B. said:
I found pliers to be sufficient for the trans connections on the radiator. Just depress the two tabs and wiggle it off.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I agree. I've read quite a few posts here that say a special fittings tool is required but I just used a pair of pliers and the 2 connections came off quite, can almost say very, easily. And they are very easy to put on the new radiator once the time comes to reconnect them.
 
I put in the same 3 row radiator from radiatorbarn.com, Flow Cooler water pump that is supposed to pump 30% more coolant up to 3000 rpm's, and a 160 deg thermostat, and a new belt. My temp never gets above 160-170 unless it's about 95 degrees out and I'm idling in traffic alot. Then it gets up to 210 deg. Winters are cold here and I still don't notice any delay in heating with the 160 deg thermo.
 
Jeff1 said:
I put in the same 3 row radiator from radiatorbarn.com, Flow Cooler water pump that is supposed to pump 30% more coolant up to 3000 rpm's, and a 160 deg thermostat, and a new belt. My temp never gets above 160-170 unless it's about 95 degrees out and I'm idling in traffic alot. Then it gets up to 210 deg. Winters are cold here and I still don't notice any delay in heating with the 160 deg thermo.
Click to expand...

I've read that putting in any thermostat other than the stock 195 causes the computer to think it hasn't warmed up yet and runs rich. Anyone else confirm this?
 
I use to run 180 but that was when I had cooling problems and the temp rarely got down that far. I now run 190 and everything is fine. Rarely get to 210 usually around 200, but the gauge is not the best tool for reading temp.
 
JoshRountree said:
I've read that putting in any thermostat other than the stock 195 causes the computer to think it hasn't warmed up yet and runs rich. Anyone else confirm this?
Click to expand...

This is correct. I'm not going to attempt to force people to listen to the fact that you shouldn't use any other tstat except a 195, especially something as low as a 160. The very purpose of the tstat is to keep the temperature UP, not DOWN, and at a CONSTANT TEMPERATURE!!! A 195 opens around 200-205, keeping the engine operating range around 200-210. Yeah, it's possible that your cooling system has the POTENTIAL to keep the temp cooler if it's a good system and in good shape, but the question is why? If it can keep it at 160, it will obviously keep it at 195, which is where it should be running. This applies more to the newer H.O. motors as the Renix engines are less computer controlled. A lower tstat will not stop overheating, it just lets the coolant flow earlier. Like the previous poster said, in stop and go traffic the temp gets to 210 with a 160 tstat, just like it would with a 195.
 
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