pre90 disco housing stronger than post 90 non disco?

I recently got a disco in a trade it had the two peice shaft and the short side and a welded carrier. When looking at the housing i noticed that both UCA mounts we cast solid instead of the passenger one just being welded on, so i decided to use this housing because mine has had a beating. I replaced the two peice shaft with a full long side, replaced the carrier with an open one and made a delete plate for the disco. I went to a pull apart today and got the calipers and the brake like is alot better tucked in that the post 90 also the caliper brackets are bolted on not cast in. So after this whole swap i think i am in better shape than what i started with, am i missing anything? is there anything that makes it weaker that i dont know about?

Specs:
95 4.0 3.55s hp d30 AW4 231 RE 5.5 rustys lowers and stock uppersuke:

I ran the D30 Disco housing in my 89 for years, I say the disco design makes the housing beefier than the newer style.

Did you put some kind of axle seal in the tube to prevent your lube from leaking out?

The only real dis-advantage to the disco housing is the lack of aftermarket shafts. However since you converted it to one piece shafts, you should be fine (assuming you used the proper seal at the housing).

I will also add this for anyone keeping the 2 piece... there are 2 piece shafts the use the larger U-joint, they come on a 95 YJ with ABS.

I haven't had any problems with my disco housing, but I have seen the passenger UCA mount rip on the non-disco before.

TRAILREADYXJ said:

I haven't had any problems with my disco housing, but I have seen the passenger UCA mount rip on the non-disco before.

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Thats were the disco front is more durable, the pass side UCA mount is cast, other wise with the one piece shaft conversion they are the same axle. 90's have the newer style knuckles.

I just did this swap 3 weeks ago. I used a 86 d30 with my 92 one piece shafts. U need to install a seal in the pumpkin on the passenger side so all the gear oil does not come out. I am using the 86 knuckles, 86 calipers, 92 rotors and 92 hubs. The key when doing this swap when not changing over the knuckles is always to match the rotors to the same year hub. With that any year knuckles/ calipers will work.

If u have any Q's just ask

http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/yjd30convert/yjconvert-1.htm

the rotors fit off my 93 the knuckles and calipers just have to match. and yes i did seal and make a delete plate for the opening.

95meangreen said:

the rotors fit off my 93 the knuckles and calipers just have to match. and yes i did seal and make a delete plate for the opening.

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What "Canadian Wheeler" was asking is did you install the seal inside of the pumpkin next to the carrier bearing on the pass side(it goes into the tube), just like the one on the left. If you did and you should have, then leaving the opening for the vacuum motor will not matter, in fact it makes cleaning the axle tube easy and installing the pass side shaft easier.

yeah i got one in there really i just didnt was mud or rocks to get up in there and if i need to 4 bolts and it out

heres a few pics of the swap form and 88 sport to my 95 sport. And yes i get crap about the red but i like it and its my jeep :roll:

smashed passenger side uca mount that and bad ball joints and a bent up lca mount is the reason for the swap


delete plate


shaved the grooves off the bottom of the vaccume disco part for clearence you never know when you will need it


before the swap


and after

speaking from experience,your steering has got to suck....

outlander said:

speaking from experience,your steering has got to suck....

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not too bad alittle bumpsteer and other annoyances i need a drop pitman arm bad but its ok for just around town.