Replacing Radiator etc...

Hi All,
I've got a '95, 4.0, AX15 with 200,000+ miles. At freeway speeds the heat just keeps going up and up. I wired in a manual override to the Aux fan, but the heat just keeps going up. Once I'm off the freeway, the heat goes back down, slowly. So its time to replace that old radiator! And while I'm at it - replacing the rest of the system since its got 200,000+ on it.
I think I've assembled all the parts, but I want to run it by the knowledgeable ones here to see if there is anything I'm missing!
I've got:
- CSK 3 row all metal radiator from RadiatorBarn (thanks for recommendation)
- New Fan clutch
- Upper and lower hoses (from NAPA - no spring in the lower, the NAPA guy said they don't make them like that anymore...)
- New water pump (and gasket)
- 13lb radiator cap
- SuperStat 180 thermostat (and gasket)
- New motor and tranny mounts (they're shot and I don't want to put the fan through my new radiator!)

Am I missing anything? I don't want to be walking to the Parts store because I forgot something halfway through!

Thanks!!

heater valve and hoses?
you're going to want to pull the heater core hoses anyway to flush it backwards. That way crap in there won't plug up your shiny new rad.

i know it sounds obvious but you didnt list it, coolant? and manche is right replace the heater valve it will probably shatter when you try to pull the hoses off it, mine did

I just finished doing pretty much exactly what you described... new rad, waterpump, thermostat, hoses, and aux. fan switch. The one other mod I did was add some hood vents. I'm quite happy with how things have turned out for me... the hood vents are incredibly helpful.

The radiator is a good choice, however I disagree with some of your other choices. I assume you mean "CSF", sold at radiatorbarn, as CSK is the Checker auto parts, etc brand, not good!

The fan clutch is fine, but I would recommend not getting a Hayden or Imperial brand clutch as I've had 2 last less than a year for me. Plus overheating on the highway is not really a sign of a bad fan clutch, but if the original has over 200,000 on it then by all means replace it.

For the hoses, I don't really know what advice to give. Awhile ago I installed a lower hose without a spring on it and I gunned the engine while looking at it; it didn't collapse, per se, but I could definitely see it move inward a bit which made me nervous, so I went to the dealer to get the lower hose with the spring (like 2 months ago, the mopar one puts them in). I think its a good idea, and costs no more or very little more at the dealer than at a parts store. The upper hose can be bought at most places and will be fine, although I use the dealership one for that as well because it costs the same and is exactly the right shape/fitting (doesn't need a spring though, I ran a NAPA upper hose for at least 5 years with no problems).

Contrary to what some say, you DO NOT need a high performance water pump like a Flowkooler or Hesco. Get a NEW, not reman water pump from Napa and you will be served well. Those high flow pumps can almost be a detriment and if they do for some reason help someone stop their overheating problems, it is only covering up something more severe, like a clogged radiator.

16lb Pressure Cap!! The parts stores always suggest 13lb and I do not know why, it is wrong and will cause problems, especially the possibility of overflowing your overflow tank because the cap releases coolant too early. You don't need to get it at the dealer, I just use a Stant safety cap, like this:
http://www.stant.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=204&location_id=179

These let you blow off all the pressure into the overflow in the unlikely situation you need to get into the radiator when still hot and keep you from creating a geyser if you try to take it off when still pressurized.

I strongly disagree with your choice in thermostat. 5 different stant superstats I have used in the past, including one no more than 2 months ago, were either incredibly inconsistent at holding a temperature or just flat out opened at the wrong time. I've said it here many times before, there is NO reason to use a tstat rated at a lower degree than OEM. Get a 195. Many Renix jeep owners report no problems using a 180 or even 160, but the H.O. 4.0 is different and more computer controlled. A LONG time ago I used to use a lower tstat when my cooling system was shot and all I did was take short trips, so the stat opening earlier allowed me to make short trips without overheating. It was just a bandaid and my cooling system was shot.

With all those new components, your jeep will not overheat. And it will be perfectly capable of keeping it at 195, which is where your fuel economy, emissions, and performance will be the best. I see this line of reasoning all the time; "Why wouldn't I want my jeep to run cooler? These jeeps run too hot anyway and I feel better knowing it is running cooler, etc etc". But think about it this way. Sure, your brand new cooling system may very well be capable of keeping the jeep at 180. But that means it is also perfectly capable of keeping it at 195, the temp engine management prefers. And if you install a 180 tstat to stop overheating, something else is wrong with the system and it will only make overheating take a few minutes longer.

My advice? Go to the dealership and get the Mopar 195, which comes with the correct gasket. It also has a bleed valve to help air get through, etc. At the very least, get a good brand tstat like Mr. Gasket rated at 195. All it takes is one look at the Mopar tstat versus a Stant and you will see why I don't recommend the Stant.

Hope this helps. Everything I've recommended is exactly what I use now, and I never have a single problem no matter what I do, how hard I drive, or for how long.

I should also mention this; I hate the dealership for many things. They are ridiculously overpriced for many things (i.e. when I was looking at radiators the crappy OEM replacement was $330, versus the $170 for the superb all metal CSF from radiatorbarn). However, there are a few choice items I will always go to the dealership for (motivated by the people here on who know their stuff) certain items; tstat, hoses, and cap/rotor; these cost about the same as their auto store counterparts and are truly of better quality, so I will give them my business for those few choice items.

Wow! Thanks guys!

+ Yeah, I meant CSF radiator, not CSK.
+ New antifreeze and distilled water was on the list - but I wasn't sweating those (too much).
+ I hadn't thought of the heater valve or hoses, so I'll add those to the list!
+ NAPA listed the 180 thermostat as OEM. When I was in there I didn't think too much about it until I read some more here. I'll take it back and get a 195. I just called the Dealership and they want $21.00 for a new tstat! Maybe I'll try the Mr Gasket instead.
+ I'll take back the 13lb cap also and get a 16lb.
+ The Dealership wants $30.00 for the lower hose (with spring). Thats 2X the NAPA lower hose. I'm going to have to think on that one.
+ The water pump is a standard replacement, new, not rebuilt, and even made in the USA!

Since I'm taking everything out, whats the best way to flush the block and heater core? Should I do a 'standard' flush with everything still attached and then remove the radiator etc, or should I remove everything and then flush the core and the block? Flushing just the core and the block seems to make more sense, but how would you do the block? Just leave the upper and lower hoses connected and clamp the garden hose on?

Thanks again!

I find it best to run 2 bottles of the 6 hour super cleaner/flush kits with water with the old radiator still in there. You don't have to do anything strenuous while driving for it to work, as long as its circling. This way the radiator can pick up any remaining crap in there before putting in the new one. Leave the heat on while you drive (it sucks, but it works) so the heater core gets flushed as well. Once you're done, drain it out, then remove the radiator, tstat/tstat housing, waterpump and hoses. Blast out the block with the hose, I suppose you could reverse flush but I find the 6 hr cleaners do the trick for the heater core without reverse flushing. And once the pump/housing are off, you can shoot water straight in there.

This is just my opinion, and they may be bad practice, but the hoses on my jeep are as old as the jeep, as in almost 14 years and never once have they given me problems. If they don't leak and you can squeeze them, they are fine. The upper and lower hoses even last awhile, as I replaced the lower hose after 12 years not because anything was wrong with it but just because I thought I should. Maybe I was lucky they lasted that long.

And damn, your dealership is really feeling the need to screw today! I got mine from the local chrysler dealership, $9 for the tstat/gasket and $26 total for both upper and lower hoses! $21 and $30?? My advice is to order online from any of the registered MOPAR distributors, like "moparpartsamerica.com". You will get the real Mopar parts at, well, reasonable (for lack of a better word) prices. At least closer to what I paid versus your dealer.