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leaf center pins

J

J-Roc

NAXJA Forum User
Location
ontario
I am reading up on center pins for my planned bastard pack. I haven't removed anything from the rear end as I am not close to installing anything just yet... but what happens if I have to cut my center pins to take apart my leafs? Regardless the pin will probably be too short when 2 more leafs are added to the pack.

How do you change them out? I think they are threaded into the spring perch, thats what it looks like anyway... I am searching but not finding anything useful. I was hoping that timmah's pics would work in his bastard pack write up but no such luck lol.

Edit: read through rock lizards 2" BB install and it makes a bit more sense, however it looks like the factory pins were used because they are rusted to hell...
 
Last edited:
They simple go through the spring pack, nut holds the pack tight..

Just remove the nut and there ya go (after you take the springs out of course) , Also to get a new one, try lowes, get machine, hex head (round head that uses hex key) with a shoulder on it, they work just as well
 
I am under the impression that they sort of look like a rivet (that hasn't been used of course. Thanks for the heads up... dumb question but it just didn't make any sense... probably because of all the rust and kaka :dunce:
 
I just did the bastard leaf setup on my jeep this week. I went to a local 4x$ store and asked them for new center pins. But any hardware store will probably sell them. Like it was stated above. Just get a bolt about 3" or so long. Any extra you can cut off.
 
5/16" x 3" hex heads and stick a couple of lock washers under the head. The lock washers are athe same diameter as the original center pin so the locate the axle perfectly.

Out my way in eastern PA, the center pin nuts are so rusted on that they snap imediately when you put a wrench on them.
 
Socket head Cap Screw is the proper name for an allen head bolt.

5/16's grade 8, right on the rack at your local Ace Hardware.
 
Just a bit of warning on removing the center pin with an angle grinder or other means.

[voice of experiance]
Put a C-Clamp on the spring beside the center pin... When the old pin breaks there can be some energy in the springs and it can hurt....[/voice of experiance]

I used a an angle grinder to cut the pin. There was no chance of getting the center pin out without it ... The pin broke as I was grinding it and it had engouh energy to turned a finger nail black.

Not any real damage but a good lesson.

Jeff
 
I use a 7/16th Grade 8 bolt. I drill out my leaf springs. Buy a good expensive bit and it will cut the spring like butter and live to drill another day. Grind the head round and it will fit tight inside the hole at the axle spring pad.

John
 
5/16" grade 8 hex bolt is a much better idea than a socket head cap screw.

All you have to do is knock the 6 points off, on the head and they slide right in the perch. Takes literally 10 seconds on a bench grinder.
 
i buy my "tie bolts" by the box from a local parts store.....couple of bucks......there longer....but u need that when u c-clamp the springpack back together....use a big philips to line it up.......put in a new tie bolt...dont over tighten it..it will strip...cut it off at the nut when ur done
 
IIRC the size of bolt depends on what axle you have. My 8.25 used the 5/16, but I'm thinking the 35 uses the 3/8. You can get all three sizes from BDS for about $6 a set. Also someone mentioned drilling out the spring pack to fit a larger bolt. I would not do that. Drilling the hardened steel will cause microscopic cracks to form around the hole that will lead to spring failure in time.

http://www.bds-suspension.com/products/acc_centerpins.php
 
Dirk Pitt said:
5/16" grade 8 hex bolt is a much better idea than a socket head cap screw.

All you have to do is knock the 6 points off, on the head and they slide right in the perch. Takes literally 10 seconds on a bench grinder.
Click to expand...

I think SHCS are just as strong or stronger than Grade 8. I remember reading that somewhere. I may be mistaken. Maybe it had something to do with tensile strength(which is N/A for this application., I can't remember.

Hale
 
scoobyxj said:
IIRC the size of bolt depends on what axle you have. My 8.25 used the 5/16, but I'm thinking the 35 uses the 3/8. You can get all three sizes from BDS for about $6 a set. Also someone mentioned drilling out the spring pack to fit a larger bolt. I would not do that. Drilling the hardened steel will cause microscopic cracks to form around the hole that will lead to spring failure in time.

http://www.bds-suspension.com/products/acc_centerpins.php
Click to expand...

Dana 35 uses 5/16 center pin....

The Dakota leafs use 3/8s center pin...

Now I hope that this is not true about the microsopic cracks as I did open them up to 13/32 a.k.a. clearance on 3/8 center pin.

The hardest part was just drilling through them with my 12 inch drill press that had a lowest speed of 560 RPM.

I finally gave them to my dad to drill at his machine shop....He had access to a much beefier drill press.

Mine have been flexed and abused off road and with very heavy loads for 2 years and have not had any issues with cracking.

Jeff
 
Dirk Pitt said:
5/16" grade 8 hex bolt is a much better idea than a socket head cap screw.

All you have to do is knock the 6 points off, on the head and they slide right in the perch. Takes literally 10 seconds on a bench grinder.
Click to expand...

So adding heat to a grade 8 bolt is better than using a SHCS which fits the hole almost perfectly?? Since when?
 
I just went to a suspencion shop and asked for 2 (3/16) centerpins. Cost $3.00. I was at Ballad Springs in Worcester/Auburn in MA.
 
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