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Steel or Aluminum?

IntrepidXJ

IntrepidXJ

NAXJA Member #647
Location
Grand Junction, CO
Well, I was originally planning on getting some nice aluminum wheels for my XJ later this year, but after this, I am having 2nd thoughts on the matter:

IMG_7603.JPG


IMG_7608.JPG


It was a pretty hard hit, and I would guess an aluminum wheel might have cracked in the same situation. Plus, there would be no way for me to even attempt a repair on aluminum........

So, what are your thoughts......especially for an adventure-type rig?
 
They make rim repair wrenches for steel wheels to easily straighten one, can't use them on aluminum.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2691,706_Rim-Repair-Wrench.html

Steel wheels are less voulnerable to rock rash, where aluminum ones get some pretty nasty scrapes and gouges.

Steelies are cheap to replace if you do screw one up pretty bad.

You don't have to spend so much time cleaning them.

Steelies are easier to add beadlocks to if you decide you need them later.

You can weld a short piece of small diameter tubing around the valve of a steel wheel to protect it.

There are a lot of cool circle track tools and accessories available for steel wheels that can't be used on aluminum.

If you use a manual tire changer, you don't have to worry so much about scratching a steel wheel.
 
I have aluminum on mine but I keep thinking I should go steel because of just what you experienced.

I have never broken one but I still worry about the 'what-if'.
 
A hit like that would probably destroyed an alloy wheel beyond repair...you can always hammer a steel wheel back into shape enough to keep rolling if you should damage two wheels. With alloy you would be stuck..

Good on you for having a sledge big enough to repair that wheel to begin with.
 
Aluminum is lighter, but the extra weight of steel is where you want it - down low.

I have cracked an alum. rim and had the lugnuts back off another alum. rim on the highway, causing an interesting traffic backup. None of that has happened in the 5+ years after I switched to steel.

Plus, they're CHEAP to replace. I think you can still get 767s from Quad or Summit for $39.
 
The pix should make the decision obvious.
 
ren said:
The pix should make the decision obvious.
Click to expand...


Yes IF you buy cheap low quality rims!!!!

Alcoas (Forged)
Weld (forged)
Centerline (forged)


all in the $300 plus range. IF you want the best rims that are light AND durable, get those. 2 of those companies even offer beadlock wheels. Champion and Beadlock Specialties are two companies that will convert to beadlocks if needed.

Dont buy aluminum unless you are willing to get the top quality.
 
Well I remember captain ron destroying a FORGED alluminum wheel in the desert a year or 2 ago. It was cracked and leaking air. I think steelies are the way to go.
 
ryurabbit said:
Well I remember captain ron destroying a FORGED alluminum wheel in the desert a year or 2 ago. It was cracked and leaking air. I think steelies are the way to go.
Click to expand...
Do you think a wheel exists that Cappy can't break?!
 
ryurabbit said:
Well I remember captain ron destroying a FORGED alluminum wheel in the desert a year or 2 ago. It was cracked and leaking air. I think steelies are the way to go.
Click to expand...

that wasnt forged - that was an American Racing aluminum rim that Champion converted... American Racing are cast...

grain structure > random grain size...
 
XJ_ranger said:
that wasnt forged - that was an American Racing aluminum rim that Champion converted... American Racing are cast...

grain structure > random grain size...
Click to expand...

Da Truf :guitar:



Buy FORGED wheels... or dont buy at all. ( I bought steelies:eyes:)
 
The fact that you can bend a steel wheel is why I run aluminum. Pounding out a bent lip is nice, but how easy is it to straighten a steel wheel that is bent at the wheel center? I see this all the time, especially on the cheap steel "RockCrawler" rims.

On a trailered rig, I'd be inclined to go with steel, but on a daily driver that sees regular trail time, aluminum.
 
I bought some steel rims of scrappy one time and hit a railroad track doing 60 and it split one rim in 2. put on the spare and drove home and welded it back up and used it as a trail spare. Go Steel.
 
I have bent plenty of steel rims, just as shown, which caused an air-down and me reaching for the spare.

I have been running aluminum rims since I got the 98' and the YJ. So far, no problems. Chips, yes; gouges, some. However none have left me stranded and looking for a 5lb maul to "fix" my wheel.

As far as preventing side gouges, bolt a set of those fake bead locks on the rims. They leave just enough metal behind to satisfy the rock gods ;)

Buy good rims that fit a normal acorn nut and touque to spec. You won't have any problems with loose wheels.

Ron
 
Never had any problems with either Trailreadys or Walker Evans alum beadlocks.
Both have been put through some nasty chit.

Don't hear of anyone else complaining about them either.
 
I use Micky Tompson Outlaw aluminum. Summit and Tire package.com have them for under $100. They are perfectly round and don't flex. The less unsprung weight makes the jeep ride better and the less weight is suposed to be easier on axels. I have a few chips on them but for looks you can't beat aluminium. What I wish I could find are super strong and perfectly round steel beadlock rims. I think the extra weight down low would help off road. The rockcrawling experts run a lot of aluminum wheels but they put steel shot in the tires for weight at the bottom of the tire.
 
I would never run alum wheels on any vechile that I was going to be running off road!
 
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