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FYI!!! the 136 amp ZJ alt swap dont work on 99+ XJ's

MPETESS10

NAXJA Forum User
Location
MARYLAND
dunked my XJ's alternator a couple times last weekend wheeling and after a bit of searchin it seemed the ZJ 136 amp scenario was the way to go
so after using my lunch break on both tues and wedn this week and hittin the local u-pull yards and strikin out both places
I then called my junkyard contact thru work and ordered a 98 ZJ 5.2 136 amp alt
it gets there and the elect connection is waaaaay different than my 99's alt
so I say F it and call back and order a standard one for my XJ
they misunderstood and send me a 90 amp job from a 98 XJ and it looks identical to the ZJ one
third time was the charm I got a 2k1 alt fr 50 bux and its in and up and running as of tonite
but its taken me a week to get the XJ back on the road
all from a negative green trail last weekend with a little muddy water


but I did order and install a OEM front skid to try and avoid this again
 
wtf? what? did you not read the write ups saying that you had to mod the alternator?

taken from: http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2004/jeepalt/

WHAT YOU NEED TO DO TO INSTALL

Ok, this mod is not much harder than installing a new alternator. I won't go into the details of changing the alternator, but rather, I will point out the details that must addressed during installation.

The first major difference between the two is the direction of the plastic boot. For ease of installation and clearance, this needs to be changed. By swapping the boots from the Wrangler to the Cherokee alternator, this change is easily accomplished. The boots are keyed (see red arrows) and install over the indicated stud below and locate on the small hole in the case (see green arrow).
The Wrangler boot is on the left and directs the exit of the boot away from the engine.
detail-1.jpg

Details of the plastic boot positioning.
The other very minute detail to be attended to was the "spacer bushing" on the rear ear of the top alternator mount. The Cherokee's alternator's bushing (probably from rolling around on the floor) had been pushed too far inward and needed to be pressed back out. I accomplished this via a vise and large socket. Don't worry about pressing the bushing too far out because the mounting bolt will draw the bushing back tight again. The picture below shows the bushing after I pressed it out of the way:
detail-2.jpg

The spacer bushing.
Finally, I mentioned that the Cherokee's pulley was a 7 groove pulley. If you wanted the extra work, you could simply swap the two alternators' pulleys. However, you do not need to do this. If you bias the belt to the rearward most six grooves, the belt and alternator will align and run just fine. You can see the alternator installed in the pic below with the belt biased towards the back.
finished.jpg

Installed and ready to go. Notice how that the front groove on the pulley is unused.
Well, after the install, I tested the bad boy out. Everything seems to work just fine and I can crank the old stereo and run every electronic device in my jeep and hook up the Taurus fan to the battery and nothing even "blinks." Anyway, hopefully, someone will find this article helpful and save a few dollars in the process.
- Tod "Firetoad"
 
I swapped the black connector to the ZJ one, grinded my bracket and bolted up the 136a on mine. Works like a charm!
 
balloo93 said:
I swapped the black connector to the ZJ one, grinded my bracket and bolted up the 136a on mine. Works like a charm!

What year is your XJ?

I understand the bracket needs to be ground down and the wiring boot changed out....but there is definately a difference between with the 99's and newer. I can't find anything on any of the boards but, if you look at PNs listed on supplier sites they split at the 1998/1999 model year, e.g., for Mean Green, 1998 = MG1334 and for 1999 = MG1382. I'm hesitant to pick up the PN:56027913 alternator for my '99 until this is clear.

Someone with a '99 up must have done this or do I have to be a guinea pig?

Thanks FYI

1999 Jeep XJ Classic I6 AW4 NP231. RE HD 5.5" kit HT Slip Yolk Eliminator, Custom Drive Shaft (used old XJ front shaft), HD Trackbar, JKS adj LCAs / 2nd generation Disconnects, ZJ TieRod, homemade barpin eliminators, 31" BF goodrich KMs, open 3:55 D30/44, 6x9 cone K&N air filter, Hell Roaring Technologies battery controller, Dual Yellow/Red Optimas, 6CD glovebox, console CB, 180deg seats, fridge/LCD TV DVD combo, Rack, inner fender truck air, cstm tire & highlift mount, 750W inverter.
 
if i'm correct the 99 and newer models use a plug instead of just battery cables with ring terminals on the end like the 98 and older models. other than that, i believe that they should bolt up the same. of course the 136amp would still need a touch of clearancing.

but i've never had a chance to look at the electrical and see what it would take to make it fit.

not sure if i'm missing something here, but why did you order one from a 98, and not a 99???
 
To the OP - where did you get an OEM front skid?
 
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