D30 Yoke (sprung?) Questions:

Situation:

New Tom Woods shaft w/their HD U joints
Recently re-installed (after gear change) stock D30 yoke ('94, FWIW)

Problem:

Vibes in DS at speed.

Steps taken:

Removed DS and problem stopped.
Reinstalled DS and problem reoccured.
Discovered there is "play" in the U joints with (new) straps properly torqued in place.
Loosened straps and "tapped" U joint with brass punch to one side and re-torqued straps (which removed "play").
Test drive=vibes gone.

Follow up:

Called Tom Woods and they said the yoke was likely "sprung".

Questions:

1) Should yoke be changed, or were the U joints possibly not fully seated before?
2) Assuming yoke should be changed, will the pinion require re-set up (after pinion nut removal)?
3) Again assuming we change the yoke, should we replace with stock, or get TWs U-bolt conversion ($65.00)?

Thanks for any opinions!

did you get new straps for the u-joint? they stretch, and should be replaced when you do the joint.

and $65 for the u-bolt style yoke is a bit steep, you can get one at the junkyard for cheap off any number of things.

87manche said:

did you get new straps for the u-joint? they stretch, and should be replaced when you do the joint.

and $65 for the u-bolt style yoke is a bit steep, you can get one at the junkyard for cheap off any number of things.

Click to expand...

Yup, new straps came w/the DS.

I guess my main question is how to determine if the yoke is really "sprung", and if so, should I go with a stocker or switch to U bolts?

U bolt yoke is like 30 bucks from Yukon. Same yoke as a D-44 BTW.

goodburbon said:

U bolt yoke is like 30 bucks from Yukon. Same yoke as a D-44 BTW.

Click to expand...

Cool! How 'bout the other questions:

Are there disadvantages to going to the U bolt style?

Will the pinion require readjustment after yoke swap?

Thanks!

mecompco said:

Cool! How 'bout the other questions:

Are there disadvantages to going to the U bolt style?

Will the pinion require readjustment after yoke swap?

Thanks!

Click to expand...

I (and many others) prefer and run a u-bolt style yoke. I trust it more - not that I see many straps fail.

The xj d30 does not need the pinion reset with changing the yoke. It uses shim packs and not a crush sleeve.

cal said:

I (and many others) prefer and run a u-bolt style yoke. I trust it more - not that I see many straps fail.

The xj d30 does not need the pinion reset with changing the yoke. It uses shim packs and not a crush sleeve.

Click to expand...

Awesome! That's all I had to know. Thanks!

cal said:

The xj d30 does not need the pinion reset with changing the yoke. It uses shim packs and not a crush sleeve.

Click to expand...

Just as an aside - I was very disappointed to find that the D30 in my '98 ZJ used a crush sleeve, which turned a one-night project into a one-week rebuild. I don't know what years / configs had the crush sleeve but they do exist.

vetteboy said:

Just as an aside - I was very disappointed to find that the D30 in my '98 ZJ used a crush sleeve, which turned a one-night project into a one-week rebuild. I don't know what years / configs had the crush sleeve but they do exist.

Click to expand...

I think the ZJ also uses the longer pinion gear, right? I was shipped a wrong gearset for my hp30 once that had a pinion gear almost an inch too long, that I'm pretty sure was for a ZJ.

so does that mean that if i have to replace the yoke in the D35 that i have to gut the whole thing? it's a 92

lowrange2 said:

so does that mean that if i have to replace the yoke in the D35 that i have to gut the whole thing? it's a 92

Click to expand...

1) Ubolt rear driveshaft
2) unbolt yoke
3) remove yoke gently with small hammer
4) unbolt rear brake line, tie out of way
5) remove parking brake cables
5) unbolt u-bolts
7) roll rear axle out to area with space
8) roll 8.8 under jeep
9) set new perches on top of 8.8, bolt driveshaft on and rotate pinion to 3* below driveshaft angle
10) install u-bolts snug but not tight
11) burn perches in place
12) tighten u-bolts
13) install brake line, bleed brakes
14) decide on E-brake cable fastener and install


Thats pretty much the best way to replace a d35 yoke.

cal said:

1) Ubolt rear driveshaft
2) unbolt yoke
3) remove yoke gently with small hammer
4) unbolt rear brake line, tie out of way
5) remove parking brake cables
5) unbolt u-bolts
7) roll rear axle out to area with space
8) roll 8.8 under jeep
9) set new perches on top of 8.8, bolt driveshaft on and rotate pinion to 3* below driveshaft angle
10) install u-bolts snug but not tight
11) burn perches in place
12) tighten u-bolts
13) install brake line, bleed brakes
14) decide on E-brake cable fastener and install



Thats pretty much the best way to replace a d35 yoke.

Click to expand...

LOL Point made! I may start looking for an 8.8 soon. Junk yard prolly has a few of them.

vetteboy said:

Just as an aside - I was very disappointed to find that the D30 in my '98 ZJ used a crush sleeve, which turned a one-night project into a one-week rebuild. I don't know what years / configs had the crush sleeve but they do exist.

Click to expand...

I believe that HP D30's used shims, and LP D30's used sleeves.
I know that my HP D30 housing from a 97 used shims.

lowrange2 said:

so does that mean that if i have to replace the yoke in the D35 that i have to gut the whole thing? it's a 92

Click to expand...

no, but be very careful when torquine the nut down, if you crush the sleeve too much you'll have to reset the gears.
be careful, and you'll need something to measure the bearing preload.

I'd do an 8.8, or just go find a bolt in 8.25.