• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

possible solution for coolant hose

R

rocklandxjer

NAXJA Forum User
Location
North Rockland, NY
hey guys,

well, I'm trying to get daisy [my 88 build project] back on the road after i figured out that the coolant system was shot.

long story short, one of the hoses that goes to the Tstat housing has several small pressure holes in it.

help002.jpg


help003.jpg

the hose on the left

this hose runs back to the metal hose and is secured via a metal crimp.

now, i know that these hoses undergo lots of pressure, but i was wondering if i could buy a new hose of the same width, connect it with a plastic or metal tube within the rubber, and then use those metal tightening-rings to secure them. [or would that potentially leak?]

i COULD get the whole hose replaced [but have neither the tools, nor the time right now to do it myself, so id have to bring it in], but i figured if doing this would work JUST AS WELL, why not do that, as i could do that myself in under ten minutes.

however, if it is one of those things that might be strong enough, i dont want to do that.

*note: i would cut the hose at the halfway mark, insert about 2-3 inches of metal tube [thin but the same diameter as the inner-diameter of the hose] into both the old side, and the new hose.
 
rocklandxjer said:
despite the amount of pressure in those hoses?

great that saves me time and unneccesarily spent $$
Click to expand...
it is one of your heater hoses, not really much pressure. if you went to the parts store and bought the hose in question it might be in the $20 to $30 range and it would be fixed right. but if the short story is you just need it PATCHED then your idea will work fine.
 
I got that hose at O'reilly's for around 10 bucks (I think). I just used a dremel to cut off the stock fittings and secured everything with hose clamps for the new hose.
 
Just replace the hoses, both from the dealer *might* cost you $30 w/new clamps already on them. What you want to do is actually MORE work.
 
RichP said:
Just replace the hoses, both from the dealer *might* cost you $30 w/new clamps already on them. What you want to do is actually MORE work.
Click to expand...
my thoughts exactly! you do it the way you want now and in six months you do it the right way again. two times the labor at a minimum.
 
well, i guess ill just buy the whole thing [i found some time, -ish]

what exactly should i ask to buy [i just know them as "heater hose one" "hose two" and "large coolant hose"... not very technical.

also, is it absolutely necessary that i use the metal crimps, or will hose clamps be fine?

thanks
Travis
 
Napa and others sell 5/8" hose (your heater hose) by the foot. get a bunch of it, keep some for spare. Or are you talking about the larger hose
 
I cut mine out and used hose clamps with the original pipes. Works great and IF I ever blow one its a lot easier and cheeper to find.
IMG_0046.jpg
 
You can use either 5/8 or 3/4 heater hose. The heater control valve is not necessary, so you don't have to reuse it. Most major home repair centers carry 3/4 brass T fittings that are perfect for this application. The whole repair should take less than 1 hour and cost less than $25.

When you remove the heater hoses from the heater core (where it goes into the firewall), cut slits in the hoses and carefully remove them---don't twist or pry because they will break.

Take your time and take pics of how the hoses run before you start so you don't get confused.

Good Luck!
 
Thanks. Like I said this seems to work well for me. Can you believe the old girl has over 300,000 miles on her. I have never had to pull the head only dropped the oil pan to do the rear main.
 
The fitting on the heater is a different size, hence the fancy factory hose that accomodates it.

Using all 5/8 and a short section of 3/4 at the heater can do - the parts houses should stock the hose adapter that changes from 5/8 to 3/4.

It's a lot cheaper and an easy way to adapt the later model heater valve. Watch the hose routing - it took a long cold winter for me to quit suffering and get the flow going the right way.
 
I run the standard off the shelf heater hose. I just took a heat gun and warmed up the end and was able to slide it on.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
Power Steering Return Hose
Replies
5
Views
1K
Musdog
M
S
Issues flushing dirty coolant
2
Replies
29
Views
4K
fenns7
F
M
1992 XJ A/C Air Conditioning Replacement - Parts List
Replies
7
Views
2K
Rob Mayercik
R
M
Coolant Temp Sensor
Replies
3
Views
1K
Unclewolverine
U
O
Rear Brake Noise Question and Hepl Please
Replies
5
Views
369
asymptonic
A
Back
Top