Changing rear wheel studs

Hi,

I really do not want to hammer on axle shafts, so...

1. Does using a c-clamp and a socket to get a stud out sounds doable ?
2. Does screwing a nut works to get a stud it ? How do I make sure they get in straight ?

I found out why it is not a good idea to get new studs at a dealership - they are $6 each and I need 15 (drum to disk + one spare axle shaft), while Moser sells online $20 for 10.

Thank you,
Andrey

Andrey you need a press to get them out or a eally big vice. I've used a hammer and a piece of pipe longer than the axle shaft. It is cumbersome but doable. I have seen no ill effects from using a hammer to install or remove studs.

The pipe goes on the inner side of the bolt plate, around the head of the stud. Then take a big hammer and beat the stud out. Installing them with hammer requires a long 3/4 socket reverse of above and just beat them flush.

You can buy a box of 10 studs from Napa or Carquest for $9.

HTH

Here some pictures of what I am talking about:





Just make sure that the pipe is longer than that shaft.

To install new studs; you can stack several washers and use a grade 8 lug nut and tighten..... This will draw the stud into the hole. I generally try to make sure I purchase Grade 8 studs and these can be purchased at Autozone.
Removal would be as posted by Ben H.

You can remove the studs with a c-clamp and socket and you can install them the same way. The stud should straighten itself if it is fully seated against the flange.

What kind of c-clamp? I tried it but couldnt get them to budge.

Ben,

Is it a photo lab ?

I understand what you are talking about. Are those yukons ?

I'll try autozone for wheel studs tonight. Meanwhile I really enjoy bicycling to work.

Thanks,
Andrey

No thats my hot ass garage. And those are my spare yukons. Good luck trying to find them at autozone, best chance is Napa.

A good quality C-clamp will work - but not one "Made in China." A ball joint/U-joint press will also serve (I've got one you can borrow) - same stipulation. It will just be a bit cumbersome - but you can use a "Made in China" C-clamp to hold the press to something to make it work.

The stud will straighten itself out once it's fully seated in the hole. Also, if you use a flat-bottom nut (the flat side of an open acorn nut, or a standard hex nut) and a stack of washers, you should also be fine. If you go that route, use washers ONE SIZE LARGER than the nominal OD of the threads at the bottom of the stack, since the shank tends to protrude through the flange just a bit (for instance, use about four or five washers, with the top three being 1/2" and the bottom two - against the flange - being 9/16".) If you use a press, you can just run the stud straight in through the receiving collar of the press (or into a socket or receiving collar on a vice. A short pipe nipple - about 3" or so, I think - can make a good receiving collar on a vice.)

I have hammered them in and out with no ill effects (other than a vaguely queasy feeling in the pit of my stomach...) but that's just a bit "booty fab" for my liking, and I'll only do it if I have to. I know it can work - but it's a weapon of last resort, y'know? There are just better ways to get the job done...