XJ 44 to Full Float

So I'm debating on running an XJ 44 in the rear but I've been wanting a full float rear for some time and I think this might be my answer, but I was just curious, how would I set up a jig to weld these on straight? Seems like a fairly straight forward conversion, but the jig is throwing me and I'd like some ideas.



Doing this would allow me to take the xj 44 I have, run chevy bearings all around, chevy disc's, calipers, rotors, everything, and have a full float rear at the same time. Anyone see a downside to this?

Another quick one....is Warn the only ones with 30 spline drive flanges for the dana 44?

Hmm, what parts are those? What spindle do they ride on?

There is a "home brew" FF conversion article at earlycj5.com in the tech section ( http://earlycj5.com/tech/axle/d44FFDIY/index.php ). I don't remember what they did to make the tube/spindle true and I'm too lazy to re-read the article at the moment. I'm thinking that the flange on the end of the tube plays the largest role with alignment and you may not have to do anything.

FWIW, I used a Scout 44 with the WARN FF kit and Suzuki Sidekick LWB front rotors (vented) for a 5 on 5.5" setup. It worked out to ~59-3/4" by the time I was done. I may run some thin spacers to move the wheels out a touch if I need to.

For the drive flanges, I'm guessing only WARN would have the parts as a stock item and/or be capable of making the parts without screw up on the first attempt.

HTH

Well, the adapter allows for the use of any Chevy/Jeep/Dodge 6 bolt spindle and wheel bearings, so in theory, you could use Chevy 1/2 ton spindles (the ones with the larger center hole so you could run 30 spline outer end instead of 19 spline) and any of the styles of bearings; ie the large bearing Chevy 1/2 ton would be ideal. That would allow for easy rear disc, full float, super easy to find parts (seals, bearings, spindles, anything) because any dana 44 front part would do.

I'm thinking that I'll talk to a machine shop and have them make me some pucks that are the size of the carrier bearings, put those in, torque them down, have a rod that is the diameter of the spindle hole and will be the length of the axle WMS to WMS. I think that might work alright for a jig and butt weld the adapter on. That would allow for a bit wider axle width or custom for that matter to match any axle I wanted (within reason) I'm thinking that cutting the front down to about 63" wms to wms would be ideal for my purpose and the adapters in the rear would be just a few quick math problems and I'll match the front. Seems like it would work, I just was hoping that someone might have done it already.

53guy said:

Well, the adapter allows for the use of any Chevy/Jeep/Dodge 6 bolt spindle and wheel bearings, so in theory, you could use Chevy 1/2 ton spindles (the ones with the larger center hole so you could run 30 spline outer end instead of 19 spline) and any of the styles of bearings; ie the large bearing Chevy 1/2 ton would be ideal. That would allow for easy rear disc, full float, super easy to find parts (seals, bearings, spindles, anything) because any dana 44 front part would do.

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Ahh, that's why the part looks weird - didn't realize it was an adapter.

I'm thinking that I'll talk to a machine shop and have them make me some pucks that are the size of the carrier bearings, put those in, torque them down, have a rod that is the diameter of the spindle hole and will be the length of the axle WMS to WMS. I think that might work alright for a jig and butt weld the adapter on. That would allow for a bit wider axle width or custom for that matter to match any axle I wanted (within reason) I'm thinking that cutting the front down to about 63" wms to wms would be ideal for my purpose and the adapters in the rear would be just a few quick math problems and I'll match the front. Seems like it would work, I just was hoping that someone might have done it already.

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Do a search over on PBB. There is a guy (or two) over there that sells the pucks and bars already to ship. The kit had a fair price IIRC, I wanna say ~$120 but am not certain.

63" in the front would be a decent width. Get the rear around 61" and you'd be in the sweet spot for turning radius and transients without looking goofy.

HTH

Is anyone experiencing bent housing issues when using the 44s relatively small diameter and 1/4" tubes in a full-float application?

IMO, d44 tubes are pretty small in a semi-float application. Add supporting the entire weight of the rig and I think they are really marginal. I would think a truss would be mandatory.

Dirk Pitt said:

Is anyone experiencing bent housing issues when using the 44s relatively small diameter and 1/4" tubes in a full-float application?

IMO, d44 tubes are pretty small in a semi-float application. Add supporting the entire weight of the rig and I think they are really marginal. I would think a truss would be mandatory.

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Good point. Now along those lines, would it be an after thought or something to do before welding the adapters on? I have read many threads saying that putting a truss on the top of an axle and nothing on bottom can cause warping.

If you have one of those older 19 spline D44s, why not just get 30 spline shafts and run those? I think making a D44 a FF would be more trouble than it's worth. If you want FF, go d60 or 14bolt!!

mjma said:

If you have one of those older 19 spline D44s, why not just get 30 spline shafts and run those? I think making a D44 a FF would be more trouble than it's worth. If you want FF, go d60 or 14bolt!!

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I don't think you understand, the front outers would be used for the rear axle when used with the adapter...the outer shafts on the dana 44's have 19 spline outers and that is the reference and the rear shaft would be a double spline full float shaft. If that makes sense to you, the stock drive flanges would be 19 spline and would be a pretty deep cut spline compared to a 30 spline shaft. Anyways, the weight of a full float 44 compared to a 60 or 14 bolt? I think that in itself would be worth doing it, not to mention size and clearance. The Jeep isn't heavy enough to need the strength of a 60 or 14 bolt and those would only add weight to the rig. Maybe I'm just convincing myself, but I think that the strength given by a 60 isn't worth it compared to the weight gained.

Here is a good writeup to follow. This is what I am hoping to do with my 9". HTH!!!

http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2002/ff9/

53guy said:

Good point. Now along those lines, would it be an after thought or something to do before welding the adapters on? I have read many threads saying that putting a truss on the top of an axle and nothing on bottom can cause warping.

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What causes the warping is the application of too much heat during the welding process. If the truss is welded on correctly there should be no warping.

Similarly, welding on your adapters must be done with minimal heat with lots of cool down between stitches.

I'm ordering the TNT stuff for the front axle, so I'll probably go ahead and get the rear truss as well, its not too expensive. Now its onto find custom shafts. Dutchman has some, but expensive....$450 a set. I wonder if I can get regular full floats and just respline them? Maybe find some 14 bolt or 60 stocks shafts and that should work. Full width, shouldn't be a problem.